Amateur 

draaking 

erry D * F r a z e 





Class Smffl 

Book C4 

Copyright N° 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



AMATEUR RODMAKING 



AMATEUR 
RODMAKING 

BY 

PERRY D. FRAZER, 

Illustrated 



HANDBOOKS 



Number 33 




NEW YORK 

OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MCMXIV 



4 V 



Copyright, 1914, by 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 



All rights reserved 



DEC 15 1914 



r 



7o 

CU3888S2 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. A Review of Fishing Rod His- 
tory 13 

II. Fishing Rod Material . . . 30 

III. Mounting and Finishing Ma- 

terials 50 

IV. Tools Needed in Rodmaking . 69 
V. Types of Bait-Casting Rods . 75 

VI. One-Piece Bait-Casting Rods . 80 
VII. One-Piece Bait-Casting Rods 

with Separate Handgrasps . 96 

VIII. Two-Piece Bait-Casting Rods . 10 1 

IX. Three-Piece Bait-Casting Rods 107 

X. Salt- Water Rods . . . .111 

XL Bass and Trout Fly-Rods . .117 

XII. Salmon Fly-Rods . . . .121 

XIII. On the History of the Split 

Bamboo Rod 128 

XIV. Split Bamboo Rodmaking for 

the Beginner 151 

XV. Split Bamboo Rodmaking for 

the Advanced Workers . .172 

XVI. Winding Rods . . . . . 200 

XVII. Varnishing Rods ; , , „■ .216 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



Nonagonal and Octagonal Cane Rods 


. Page 21 


An Eighteen-strip Rod ..... 


" 23 


Serrated Ferrules ...... 


" 52 


Split Ferrules ....... 


" 53 


Plain Capped and Welted Ferrules . 


" 54 


Sectional View of Doweled Ferrules 


" 56 


Reelseat for a Single Handgrasp 


" 57 


Cord-wound Pine Handgrasp .... 


" 94 


Split Bamboo Tournament Rod 


" 104 


Tarpon Rod 


" 115 


Split Bamboo Bass Fly Rod .... 


" 119 


Method of Attaching Winding 


" 205 



FOREWORD 

IN " Rodmaking for Beginners " I tried to 
write in a brief and plain manner for the 
guidance of novices. The temptation to 
branch off the narrow, straight trail, and give 
the fullest details in working out the various 
problems was very great. I have been criti- 
cised by some expert rodmakers, but to balance 
these criticisms I have been told by many nov- 
ices that they were enabled to follow directions 
because of their simplicity. The scope of that 
book was, therefore, restricted; in this one, 
however, I have endeavored to go deeper into 
interesting branches of rodmaking for the 
benefit of anglers who possess more or less 
skill in working with edged tools. 

The army of young — and other — men who 
are fond of doing things themselves is very- 
large, and growing. To them this book may, 
I trust, prove to be helpful. 

Parts of " Rodmaking for Beginners " are 



10 FOREWORD 

included in this volume. Acknowledgment is 
made to the publishers of Forest and Stream 
and Field and Stream for permission to reprint 
in this volume parts of articles which appeared 
in those publications. 

The Author. 
Ridgewood, N. J., April, 19 14. 



AMATEUR RODMAKING 



CHAPTER I 

A REVIEW OF FISHING ROD HISTORY 

WHEN we speak of fishing rods to-day, 
reference is invariably made to those 
rods that consist of two or three 
parts fitted with splices or ferrules for greater 
convenience in carrying to and from the fish- 
ing grounds. 

Without question the best rod is one made 
of a single piece, or of strips rent and glued, 
but with no joint or ferrule to interfere with 
its resilience and action. 

That it is next to impossible to carry a full 
length rod on trains and in other conveyances 
is obvious; hence the skill of amateur and pro- 
fessional rodmakers is constantly directed to- 
ward the task of making the two or three 
joint rods as nearly perfect in every way as is 
possible under the circumstances. That they 
succeed very well indeed is evident in the beau- 
tiful rods now used in fishing and in tourna- 
ment casting. 

For several centuries all of the best fishing 
13 



14 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

rods were made in Great Britain. There solid 
wood rods were the favorites; in fact — with 
the exception of rods made with spliced cane 
and whalebone tips — the only rods used until a 
comparatively short time ago, when the rent 
and glued cane rods invented and made by 
Americans were adopted abroad. Even to- 
day solid wood rods are extensively used in 
Great Britain. Their manufacturers have 
never been very successful in competing with 
the best American hexagonal split bamboo rods, 
and some of their fly-rods are made up from 
split-and-glued material purchased in the 
United States and sold as English rods. 
High grade American split bamboo rods, too, 
are well known and liked over there. 

Hickory has been largely used in England 
for parts of medium and heavy fly-rods, the 
material being shipped from the United States 
and Canada in billet form. Other materials 
are: Ash, lancewood, whalebone and cane 
combined; ash and lancewood in combination; 
willow, blue mahoe, washaba (our bethabara), 
whole cane, greenheart, and greenheart and 
whole cane combined. For a number of years 
greenheart alone, or greenheart in combina- 
tion with whole cane, was a standard rod ma- 
terial there, but this is of comparatively recent 
adoption, as angling writers of fifty years ago 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 15 

seldom refer to greenheart. Alfred Ronalds, 
writing in 1836, said: 

" The best materials are, ash for the stock, 
lancewood for the middle, and bamboo for the 
top." 

Mr. Ronalds had in mind the whole bamboo 
which, according to later writers, was first im- 
ported into England by army officers returning 
from India. They, however, looked on it with 
favor because it was ideal for lances, and per- 
haps their preference for the thick-walled 
canes, now called " male " bamboos, led to the 
belief that was prevalent for many years, that 
this was better for rodmaking purposes than 
the thin-walled " female " canes. Exhaustive 
tests with scientific instruments have proved 
the thin-walled bamboo better for the pur- 
pose. 

Theophilus South, in his " Fly-Fisher's Text 
Book " (London, 1845), prefers ash to willow 
for butts, hickory for middle joints, and favors 
tips made from lancewood, cane, and whale- 
bone, spliced together — four and even five 
pieces in a tip. 

The African greenheart, obtainable in the 
yards of the importers in Stanley Road, Liver- 
pool, is probably much better material for fish- 
ing rods than the greenheart sold in the United 
States, which comes from various places in the 



16 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

tropics. That which comes through Liverpool 
is picked over by the British buyers, and our 
importers must take what is left. This prob- 
ably accounts for the growing scarcity of first 
class greenheart. Not a few of our rodmakers 
decline to guarantee this material, which is most 
excellent for the purpose when it is good. 

Early fishing rod materials in the United 
States were: Ash and lancewood in combina- 
tion; hickory, mahoe, greenheart, washaba 
(bethabara), snakewood, beefwood, cedar, 
osage orange, shadblow, ironwood, dagama, 
peppercane, Calcutta bamboo, our Southern 
canes, jucara prieto, and many others. 

Years ago it became a common practice to 
saw or rive strips of wood, plane these square, 
glue four pieces together and plane round to 
form rod joints. The belief was that joints so 
made were much stronger and less likely to 
break than would be the case with a joint made 
from a single piece of wood. This method 
was followed by splitting strips of bamboo, 
planing two sides of each strip and glueing four 
of them together to form a joint, then planing 
the latter round. This was made possible by 
placing the enamel side of the bamboo within 
the strip, as shown by the shaded lines in 
Fig. i. 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 17 





Fig. I. 



Fig. 2. 



The enamel surface being slightly convex, it 
was difficult to work and glue these strips to 
form nice joints, and this method, which seems 
to be ideal in other respects, gave way to one 
in which the enamel was placed on the outside, 
and the section made almost octagonal in form 
by means of planing off the corners, as shown 
by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. This method is 
still followed to a certain extent by amateurs 
in making tips, and for the beginner at split 
bamboo rodmaking, it has many points of ex- 
cellence. The principal ones are that it is 
easier to make a joint of four than six pieces, 
and if these are carefully fitted, glued and var- 
nished, a fairly good rod is the result. 

It is possible the manufacture of these four- 
strip rods of solid wood or cane, and the diffi- 
culty in keeping water out of them with the in- 



18 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

ferior glue and varnish then available, resulted 
in the method often followed of winding joints 
solidly with silk thread or narrow silk tape. 
This made the rod soft or logy and was dis- 
carded finally, to be revived in recent years, 
and again discarded. 

The four-section cane rods gave way to six- 
strip rods, and these are here to stay. They 
have been used successfully for the past genera- 
tion and have outlived their offshoots, the eight- 
strip, the seven-strip, and the steel-centered 
single and double-built rods, showing that they 
are based on very sound principles. 

It is the belief among rodmakers that in a 
hexagonal rod the upper and the lower strips 
are called upon to perform the greater part of 
the work of casting and playing a fish, but the 
strain on the upper strip is supported, not by 
the lower strip alone, but by the three lower 
strips, as shown in Fig. 3. 

When the greatest strain falls on the lower 
strip, the three upper strips support it, as pic- 
tured in Fig. 4. This seems to be borne out 
by the fact that in tournament casting — the 
hardest work a fly-rod is called upon to per- 
form — it frequently occurs that the lower strip 
is fractured, but the strength of the rod is but 
little impaired, and turning the rod so that the 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 19 




Fig. 3. 




Fig 4. 

break comes on the side leaves it in good shape 
for further use, if the point where the strip is 
fractured be wound with silk and varnished. 
Our English friends, not satisfied with plain 



20 AMATEUR FODMAKING 

hexagonal split cane rods, have resorted to 
double built rods, to steel cores, and to wind- 
ing in double spiral form with ribbons of steel, 
but while these methods are moderately suc- 
cessful with them, the result is to overload the 
rod, making it top-heavy or logy. Sectional 
views of these are shown in Figs. 5 to 9, 
inclusive. 



Fig. 5. 
Frederic M. Halford,* in his book, " Dry- 
Fly Fishing" (London, 1902), says of Amer- 
ican fly-rods that, judging from those he has 
seen, they " are too whippy for our insular 
ideas and seem generally to lack backbone. 
They are also rather light in the point, the 
effect of which is to render it difficult if not 
impossible to recover a long line with them. 
The fashion of the present day is to use a rod 
that is slightly top-heavy, and although this is 
more trying on the wrist, yet, considering all 
points, is a fault the right way." 

*Since the above was written Mr. Halford has passed 
away. His loss is keenly felt by anglers everywhere. 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 21 





Octagonal Cane Rod Nonagonal Cane Rod. 

Both Steel Center and Double Built. 
Fig. 6. 

His preference then was for a rod gyi to 1 1 
feet long, so it must be assumed that he re- 
ferred to American rods of light weight. This 
seems to be true, for he quotes Francis Francis, 
who, in his " Book on Angling," told of making 
a cast of twenty-six yards with a io^-foot 
rod. No American five-ounce rod of the pres- 
ent time would be accepted as a gift if it failed 
to lay out seventy-eight feet, and the average 
six-ounce rod, in the hands of an angler of or- 
dinary skill, will send the fly yards further, if 
the need arises. 

Mr. Halford says there are only three ma- 
terials worth considering: split cane, green- 
heart, and whole cane, in the order given. 
Aside from its fault of occasionally snapping 
off short, he likes greenheart, but gives double 
enamel split cane the preference. 



22 AMATEUR RODMAKING 




Fig. 7.— Steel-Ribbed Split-Bamboo Rod. 

I quote Mr. Halford at some length, for of 
all modern English angling literature his books 
on " Dry-fly Fishing," " Dry-fly Entomology " 
and others, and his numerous papers on angling 
are, to me at least, the most impressive. Among 
other things, his clearness of expression and his 
habit of giving more than full credit to his 
friends for angling hints show his sincerity and 
fairness. 

But Mr. Halford has no patience with steel- 
centered rods; in fact, he says that the contro- 
versy in the English press anent the inventor of 
the method was a waste of ink and paper, as 
steel-centered rods were of no practical use. 
11 Consider," says he, " the effect of rigidly fas- 
tening the two materials together. The one 
with the quicker action must of necessity tend 
to hurry the slower material, and the one with 
the slower action must equally of necessity tend 
to retard the action of the quicker material. 
What must be the effect? A tendency to dis- 
integrate their union. For me," he continues, 
" they have not cast better; they have not cast 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 23 




Fig. 8. — Eighteen- Strip Rod. 

— 7TT 



\ 



\ 




Fig. 9, 
Strips. 



-Method of Forming EacH of the Three- Piece 



more easily; they have not cast more accurately, 
than the ordinary split cane by the same maker. 
They are certainly more tiring to the wrist, and 
when killing a fish I do not think that they give 
any real accession of power." 

In 1889 Hardy Brothers employed an engi- 
neer who tested specimens used in rodmaking. 
All were 24 inches long, .32 of an inch in diam- 



24 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

eter for round rods, and .16 of an inch on 
each side of the triangular sections of glued- 
up hexagonal rods. The tests were for resili- 
ence, deflection, number of vibrations before 
coming to rest with various weights, specific 
gravity, and breaking strain. The best results 
obtained, in the order given, follow: Double 
enamel glued cane, steel centered; double enam- 
el glued cane; hexagonal glued cane, steel cen- 
tered; hexagonal glued cane; greenheart, built 
up; hickory, built up; round greenheart; lance- 
wood. 

In theory at least it would seem that in a rod 
wound with narrow steel wires, these would 
constantly shift with the spring of the rod, re- 
laxing in hot weather and contracting on cold 
days, the general effect being to shear windings 
and varnish, and to rust. Certain it is that one 
of the British firms which adopted steel rib- 
bing some years ago, now advocates a braided 
silk sheath to cover the steel. 

A Frenchman has made rods in which flat 
steel strips have been let into the wood, and 
my impression is that a British manufacturer 
has adopted the invention. 

Some years ago a Scotchman invented a 
similar method, but he used fine piano wires 
instead, one being let into each of the six strips 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 25 

and wound with silk. Unfortunately he died 
before succeeding in his efforts to interest a 
manufacturer in his work. 

In America not much attention has been paid 
to steel centers or steel whipping for rods. One 
firm makes a steel center rod, and another one 
at one time wound both wood and split bam- 
boo rods with copper or bronze ribbons in much 
the same manner employed abroad in winding 
with double spirals of steel. I have fished with 
one of these metal-whipped rods, and must say 
it has merit, for with it a fly can be cast very 
prettily, and it is no doubt strong, but to one 
accustomed to an ordinary split bamboo it has 
an action which, while pleasant, is peculiarly 
its own. Without wishing to disparage these 
methods of strengthening rods, for my own use 
I prefer plain whipping with narrow bands of 
fine silk at intervals of three-fourths to one and 
one-half inches, and believe these are sufficient 
for any rod of the class generally made in the 
United States. 

As previously stated, attempts to strengthen 
rods by winding them solidly with silk have 
been made here during the last half century, 
but while it is claimed for these rods that they 
seldom break and will withstand severe strain, 
I would not advise the amateur to attempt solid 



26 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

winding. Rods wound solidly with silk on a 
machine are bound in all places with equal 
pressure, and if this winding gives strength, as 
claimed, the strengthening medium is uniform. 
In winding by hand you will at first lay the silk 
on with the greatest tension you can exert, but 
it is tedious work, and after a few minutes your 
fingers will begin to cramp and ache and you 
will wind less carefully. When you stop to 
rest the tension is relaxed, then you resume 
with vigor, and so on until the long contract 
is finished. The result must be that the silk is 
wound so tight in places that it will cut into the 
wood when the preserving medium causes it to 
shrink; elsewhere there will be loose spots, fol- 
lowed by tight places — anything but uniform 
winding, giving you a soft rod. 

In this way you may defeat your purpose, 
yet never know where the real fault lies. Ten 
to one the wood will be given the blame, as 
being poor, and you may try the same thing 
with another rod, to be again disappointed. 

It can be said with perfect safety that six- 
strip split bamboo is to-day the favorite fishing 
rod material in the United States. More rods 
of this sort are used in fly-and bait-casting for 
fish and in tournaments than all other mate- 
rials combined. They are even replacing solid 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 27 

wood to a certain extent in salt water fishing. 
Many great factories have been working stead- 
ily to their full capacity for several years, turn- 
ing out split bamboo rods for the markets of 
the world, and the best of them have been for 
a long time and are now far behind with their 
orders. It is a good trade, that of a first class 
fishing rod maker; one in which steady employ- 
ment is certain. 

While our British friends are still experi- 
menting with rod materials, using cane and 
wood and steel in combination, our makers are 
plodding along with their work, turning out the 
best split bamboo rods the world has ever 
known, and satisfying their patrons. In years 
they have not added to their rods any features 
of startling importance, but they have instead 
constantly endeavored to produce perfect rods, 
until to-day their best rods are indeed works of 
art, yet powerful and durable withal. 

Only one change from the regulation six- and 
eight-strip rods is prominent. This is a method 
patented several years ago by the late Fred D. 
Divine, consisting in twisting the six strips 
slightly while the glue is still fresh, so that the 
joints are spiral, the theory being that a rod so 
treated is stiffened and that the work does not 
fall on the upper and lower strips alone, but 



28 AMATEUR SODMAKING 

on each one of the six. The method is highly 
spoken of by anglers, and I myself have used 
such a rod with pleasure and satisfaction. At 
one time I tested two fly-rods that were exactly 
alike in length, caliber, and weight, one spiral, 
the other plain six-strip. They were held on a 
table side by side while a half-ounce weight was 
suspended from each tip. The spiral rod 
sagged very little, whereas the other drooped 
four inches lower. 

The steel rod, that has become so popular in 
the Middle West and South for hard use, is 
now often employed in bait-casting. 

On salt water bethabara, ash and lancewood, 
dagama, lancewood and greenheart are the fa- 
vorite materials, although, as stated above, split 
bamboo is coming into more general use. 

In fly-casting there has been very little change 
in types of rods during recent years, but in 
bait-casting a complete change has taken place, 
and to-day the bait-caster's methods are more 
nearly like those of the fly-caster's than ever 
before, in that both use artificial lures in prefer- 
ence to live bait wherever success is at all pos- 
sible. Both are working toward finer tackle 
and are following more sportsmanlike methods 
in fishing as a pastime. 

Until quite recently angling for game fish in 



FISHING ROD HISTORY 29 

fresh waters consisted in casting the fly; in cast- 
ing with medium weight rods and minnows or 
other live bait, sometimes attached to a spoon 
or spinner; in still-fishing with minnows, worms, 
grubs, or other insects; in trolling with live or 
artificial lures. There were other forms, but 
these will suffice for the present. Nearly all 
rods were long and heavy. In order to make 
one of these, skill of no mean order was re- 
quired, and amateurs who made attempts were 
more often disappointed than satisfied. 

Then came the change in the methods of 
using the bait-casting rod. Extremists went 
from rods of eight and nine feet to those of 
sixj Rve, four, even less than four feet in length, 
but as time passed and experience has been 
gained, many of them have settled on five and 
one-half or six feet as a very satisfactory length 
for the superb little rods with which they cast 
a long line and some form of artificial lure, 
using a free-running multiplying reel. 

It is possible to make these rods as light and 
almost as graceful as the trout fly-rods. Angle 
woims and live minnows and doodlebugs are 
no longer considered necessary by way of lure, 
and the methods of the bait-caster may be made 
as cleanly and as skillful as those of his brother 
of the fly-rod. 



CHAPTER II 

FISHING ROD MATERIALS 

THERE are many anglers who are fond 
of doing things themselves, and to such 
of them as fancy bait-casting, the idea of 
making their own rods appeals strongly. And 
while it is beyond most of them to make a 
passable rod nine feet in length, such as was 
used years ago, there are very few persons pos- 
sessed of ordinary skill who cannot make a 
short rod of the type that is popular to-day. 

To give assistance to those who would like 
to try this fascinating pastime is the purpose 
of this book. I disclaim any scientific knowl- 
edge in the art. Rather, I have simply plodded 
along at the work, making mistakes and cor- 
recting them, doing things topside down, per- 
haps, as a professional rodmaker might say, 
but attaining the end sought, after a fashion, 
in time. 

During the past decade I have made almost 
every type of rod, and have worked split bam- 
boo dagama, lancewood, hickory, ash, green- 

30 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 31 

heart, washaba (bethabara), jucara prieto, and 
other materials, but in no part of my rodmak- 
ing have I had any better facilities for working 
rapidly and easily than the average busy man 
commands, hence I feel confident in telling the 
novice how he can do this and that part of 
the work, for I am giving the results of my 
own experience, backed by the sage advice of 
some of the best known professional and ama- 
teur rodmakers and anglers, to many of whom 
I am greatly indebted for friendly criticism in 
my efforts to assist beginners. 

One thing which this slow and methodical 
hand work has taught me is this : To take ad- 
vantage of everything which will simplify the 
work of rodmaking and finishing. I would 
have you bear this in mind in reading the chap- 
ters that are to come. Some of my methods 
may seem clumsy to those of you who have 
access to machine tools, or who may have been 
advised by professional rodmakers; but the 
average beginner at rodmaking will work with 
even poorer facilities, perhaps, than I have 
commanded, and for him the methods described 
may be of some value. Above all things I wish 
to make all steps plain and simple. They are 
not scientific, but are practical. 

It is folly for the beginner to attempt to 



32 AMATEUR ROBMAKING 

make his first rod of split bamboo, or even to 
obtain glued-up stock and fit it. Instead, he 
should obtain that material which is easiest to 
manipulate, and carry the work through to 
some sort of conclusion. Then, and only then, 
will he master the first step in rodmaking and 
begin to realize how easy and yet how difficult 
it is to make a good rod. 

Without question split bamboo is the best 
material known to-day. If you can obtain the 
material in butts, joints, and tips, glued-up, so 
that the " making " consists merely in finishing 
it and fitting hand-grasp, ferrules, and trim- 
mings, if care is exercised a very good rod will 
be the result. But I would strongly advise the 
novice not to attempt to make a split bamboo 
rod complete; at least not until he has had 
ample practice in making all-wood rods. In- 
stead, pay a visit to some professional rod- 
maker, if this be possible, at a time when he is 
making split bamboo rods, and ask permission 
to watch him at work for a little while. If you 
do, my word for it, you will go away a wiser 
if not a sadder man, for you will be convinced 
that you lack the skill necessary to finish the six 
slender strips and fit them together perfectly, 
even if you can secure bamboo that will prove 
to be worth cutting up. 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 33 

This is one of the difficulties encountered in 
rodmaking, for not all of the material that 
looks good will be worth the labor of cutting. 
I know one old rodmaker who, on splitting out 
his material, tests each slender strip by bend- 
ing until the ends meet, then examining the 
circlet for weak spots, and if any appear he 
smashes the whole piece and tries again — a 
severe test, but one that will show defects be- 
fore further labor is wasted. Not that this is 
the correct test, but it is one of several, the 
most important one being an examination based 
on long experience. 

Some of the best rodmakers will supply you 
with glued-up butts and joints, and if you are 
determined to make your first rod of this ma- 
terial, select these somewhat longer than the 
joints of your rod-to-be, so that you can pick 
out the best part of each piece when you come 
to fitting the ferrules. Take only hand-made 
stock, for machine made material is not always 
worth using; much depends on how carefully 
the stock is selected. The hand-made stock will 
cost more than you anticipate, but it is much 
cheaper in the end. If glued-up split bamboo 
is to be the material, the method of perform- 
ing the different parts of the fitting will be the 
same as described further on for all-wood rods. 



34 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

Next to split bamboo in the woods easily ob- 
tainable in the open market comes washaba, or, 
as it is known in the trade, bethabara. This 
is a heavy wood, but it is nicely adapted to 
short bait-casting rods, and one can be made to 
weigh five to six and one-half ounces, and very 
slender, that will be exceedingly powerful and 
full of ginger. Bethabara slightly resembles 
butternut or a light grade of black walnut in 
color; with this exception, that when freshly 
sawed the surface is covered with greenish 
yellow dust, very heavy and a bit sticky to the 
touch, giving one the impression that the wood 
has been sprinkled with yellow ochre. The 
wood being so hard, the rough saw marks hide 
the grain, and it is difficult to tell a good piece 
from a bad one. Look closely at all sides, or 
better, scrape two sides until the grain will 
show, and if there are any knots or if the 
corners show splinters that may be broken off 
short, discard it and look further. Pound the 
sticks smartly on the floor and examine for 
worm holes, which, although very small, are 
fatal to good material. 

I have said that the wood shows dust of a 
greenish-yellow color, but this seems partially 
absent in some bethabara. I prefer the grade 
which shows this characteristic, and which the 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 35 

English rodmakers call green washaba ; but the 
brown washaba, the grade that does not, is 
much harder and has a closer and longer grain 
in the perfect pieces, although it seems more 
difficult to get perfect pieces in this grade. 
Hence it is well to stick to the green or dusty 
grades, which run nice as a rule and can be 
planed from both ends and on all sides with 
impunity. Some dealers sell other varieties of 
imported woods for bethabara, and some try 
to supply very poor greenheart instead; but reli- 
able men may be depended on to give you what 
you ask for. 

The fine shavings from bethabara are so 
wiry and tough that a handful of them can be 
used for a long time in polishing finished joints. 
They cling together totally unlike those from 
greenheart, which are short and very brittle. 

Bethabara logs are sawed into planks which 
go to the rodmakers in thicknesses of seven- 
eighths of an inch, sometimes more. Generally 
the lumbermen cut logs into pieces seven- 
eighths by one inch and three feet long, but you 
can get other lengths. These pieces must be 
ripped. If, however, they will cut the material 
to your order, it will be well to have the butt 
five-eighths of an inch and the tips three-eighths 
for a two-piece rod. There is a good deal of 



36 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

cutting before you can be satisfied with the 
squared stock; and another thing, you must de- 
cide which end of your stock is to be the butt, 
or large end, before you begin the work of 
tapering. 

There are two or three peculiarities about 
this wood that will astonish you at first. Stock 
that is cut thin may be very crooked. I have 
worked pieces so crooked that it seemed a waste 
of time to do anything with them, but after 
they were finished and the rod hung up by the 
top on a brad driven into the wall, all the kinks 
soon disappeared and the rod became as 
straight as a perfect arrow. 

This method of straightening is advisable 
with any rod, and especially tips. Where rods 
are put away in tackle cabinets or closets, with 
all parts tied up in a cloth partition case, it 
very often happens that one of the strings of 
the case is tied more securely than the others, 
thus bending the tips slightly; and, if left in this 
shape for long, with perhaps some heavy object 
resting against all, a very crooked rod may be 
taken out later on. Even standing joints on 
the floor with the tops resting against the wall 
may warp them. Better hang tips up, and the 
whole rod, too, if practicable. Dealers who 
handle the finest wood rods often suspend them 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 37 

all from the tops in cases made for this pur- 
pose. 

Bethabara as a rule does not warp or take 
set easily, but cut any wood into thin strips and 
throw it about and it will warp out of shape. 
Varnish puts an end to this, as it prevents 
rapid changes of temperature from affecting 
the wood easily. 

In preparing to work bethabara, put on a 
pair of overalls or a long apron. The dust is 
very penetrating and somewhat sticky, and 
there is an oily substance that adheres to the 
edge of the plane, dulling it until removed. 
Wash your hands with soap and water, and you 
will be surprised to see the water turn a deep 
salmon color, and the lather from the soap just 
like so much red paint. No stain need be 
feared, however, although old rodmakers tell 
me that after continued working of this wood, 
their hair takes on a slight pinkish shade, due, 
evidently, to the action on the bethabara dust 
on the alkali in the soap. 

Dagama in perfect pieces is even more easily 
obtainable than bethabara, and of all the rod 
materials known I strongly advise the beginner 
to make his first rod of dagama. He will have 
less difficulty in working it, is more likely to get 
first-class stock of nice straight grain, and it 



38 AMATEUR EOBMAKING 

will give him good satisfaction. Having in 
mind the disappointing experiences I had in my 
first attempts to work bethabara, due for the 
most part to poor material, I asked several of 
the best known firms of rodmakers for their 
opinions, and these agreed perfectly with my 
own, which is that while first-class bethabara 
will give better satisfaction, dagama of good 
quality is more easily obtained, can be worked 
to better advantage by the novice, and will 
make a good rod. 

Dagama comes from Cuba and is rather 
common. The tree grows to a height of forty 
or fifty feet and has few branches. As a rule 
it comes in billets six or seven feet long, split 
from the log, but as these are not expensive, 
the novice who expects to make two or three 
rods can use the best part of a billet to advan- 
tage. The wood is rather white when first 
split, but exposure to the air turns it pale yel- 
low and it darkens slightly when made up into 
rods. It resembles lancewood so closely that 
unless pieces of both are placed side by side it 
is difficult to tell which is which. Its grain is 
closer and straighter than that of lancewood, 
however, and it has none of the pins or knots 
that characterize lancewood and make that 
wood so unsatisfactory to work. Dagama is 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 39 

light, stiff, and elastic, breaks with a long, splin- 
tering fracture, somewhat like hickory, is easy 
to work with or across the grain, and may be 
highly polished. Ferrules slightly larger than 
those used on bethabara will answer. 

It has been said that dagama is at its best in 
a moist climate, and is therefore peculiarly 
adapted to use on salt water; that it becomes 
somewhat " brash " in dry climates, like hick- 
ory. I regret that my personal experience with 
the wood is confined to regions near the sea 
level, and that I cannot affirm or deny this 
statement. Hickory, I know, although exceed- 
ingly tough and resilient as a rule, failed com- 
pletely when used for the long whip stocks of 
the old-time stage coach and army ambulance 
drivers in the dry regions of the Southwest. 
Although soaked with oil, they were totally un- 
reliable after drying out, and would snap short 
off like reeds. Bait-casting rods are not used 
in such dry regions as a rule, but along the 
Pacific coast, it seems, bethabara gives better 
satisfaction than either greenheart or dagama. 
The best fishing is in the dry season there. 

The late Henry P. Wells was one of the first 
angling writers to mention dagama, and he 
praised it very highly, both in the first edition 
of his " Fly-Rods and Fly Tackle," which was 



40 AMATEUR BOBMAKING 

published in 1885, an d in the second edition, 
which appeared in 1901. Of dagama he said: 

" Compared with a stick of approved green- 
heart of equal size the dagama showed no in- 
feriority that I could detect, while it was cer- 
tainly much lighter. ... I have made and 
used several rods made of dagama, and have 
seen many made by others. If well selected 
and well seasoned, as a rod wood it is difficult 
to equal, much less excel, as far as my experi- 
ence goes. It is very strong, very elastic, con- 
siderably lighter than any wood I know of 
which has equal strength, and works with a 
keen tool in a way that is simply a delight." 

The late John Harrington Keene favored 
four varieties of wood for rods, after split 
bamboo. These were snakewood, lancewood, 
greenheart, and bethabara. Snakewood, in his 
opinion, was the best where weight was not 
important, as for bait-casting rods. " It is," 
said he, " one of the most satisfactory woods 
to work that I know, cutting smoothly and 
without apparent grain, and coming out from 
the plane with a surface like ivory for smooth- 
ness. Greenheart is a much harsher wood to 
work, but if the tool is keen it works fairly well. 
For fly-rods it is one of the best woods I know, 
being of medium weight and great stiffness." 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 41 

Of dagama Mr. Keene said: "While it is 
tough, it lacks the rigidity of lancewood and is 
inferior to it for rodmaking. Lancewood, 
which, if well selected, is a most desirable wood 
for rods, is one of the easiest woods to work, 
has little visible grain and cuts smoothly." 

It seems, however, that Mr. Keene's opin- 
ion of split bamboo changed after he came to 
the United States to live, for when he wrote 
" Fishing Tackle, Its Materials and Manufac- 
ture" (London, 1886), he said: " The jungle 
canes are of Asian growth, and are chiefly util- 
ized for the glued-up cane rods which are so 
popular — rather undeservedly, I think." 

At that time Mr. Keene pronounced green- 
heart " the very best all round material for all 
the joints except the butt of fishing rods of 
whatsoever description." 

Curiously enough, he says " the beautifully 
mottled appearance of a well finished cane rod 
is produced by staining the wood with aqua 
fortis and nut galls. The stain is burned in 
immediately it is put on." Evidently, if this 
was true, the rodmakers of that time used other 
canes and attempted in this way to imitate the 
Calcutta canes. 

Lancewood is used more than any other 
material for all-wood rods in America, al- 



42 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

though it does not seem to be very much used 
abroad at present. In England greenheart is 
more of a favorite, but over there more atten- 
tion is given to combinations than here. For 
example, hickory is frequently used for butt 
joints in high grade rods, whereas on this side 
of the water it is put into the cheapest ones, imi- 
tations of bethabara, stained, and for spring 
butts of surf rods. Over there, too, whole cane 
butts and even middle joints, with greenheart 
tips, are common, while as a rule we stick to 
one material throughout the rod. 

Lancewood is more easily obtainable than 
bethabara. The latter comes from Africa by 
way of Liverpool, whereas lancewood in large 
quantities is brought up to New York by the 
coastwise vessels trading in Southern waters. 
It costs less than bethabara, and is much easier 
to work. It is not so heavy as bethabara. In 
the rough it is easier to select good stock than 
is the case with bethabara. But it is " softer 1 ' 
and more resilient in equal diameters, and has 
not the steely snap and quick recovery that 
characterize the other variety mentioned. In 
addition to this it is prone to take set; in other 
words, to warp permanently, and this fault is 
more marked on damp than on dry days. 

There are so many varieties of wood avail- 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 43 

able, and all more or less excellent for rods, 
that the beginner may be tempted to try others 
than those recommended. But my advice is 
that he confine his first experiments to either 
dagama or bethabara. Then, after he has 
acquired some knowledge of squaring, round- 
ing, and finishing solid wood, and fitting hand 
grasps, ferrules and tops, he may feel safe in 
making a split bamboo rod, since this will be 
the goal of his ambition. 

Good Calcutta bamboo is very difficult to 
obtain. Japanese bamboo is inferior to it, and 
I would not advise its use. Nearly all of the 
Calcutta bamboos are marked with alternate 
bands or patches of natural and scorched 
enamel. Two varieties are commonly known. 
The so-called " male " bamboo has thicker 
walls than the " female " and is generally 
chosen for this reason. Careful experts tell 
us, however, that in this thick-walled bamboo 
the strength diminishes more rapidly from 
enamel surface to hollow center than in the 
thin-walled bamboo. The enamel or rind is 
tough and hard. Under this the cells increase 
rapidly in size and their walls diminish in 
strength, the inner part being more pith-like 
than in the thin-walled bamboos, whose cells 
are smaller and their walls stronger. 



44 AMATEUR EODMAKING 

Various reasons are given to account for the 
burning of the bamboos by the natives of India. 
The late Henry P. Wells, who studied the ques- 
tion carefully, gives six reasons, as follows: A 
religious ceremony; roasted over a gridiron to 
kill borers; also to burn off adhering leaves and 
vines; for ornamental purposes; accidentally 
burned in firing jungles to destroy creeping 
vines; seared with hot irons in straightening. 
He leaves it to his readers' fancy to decide. 

J. J. Hardy, himself a rodmaker, in his 
" Salmon Fishing," says the natives lay the 
more crooked canes in fires made of grass and 
leaves, to soften before attempting to straighten 
them. " While this firing doubtless solidifies 
the sap and hardens the cells greatly," he 
writes, " it destroys fully 50 per cent, of the 
bamboos for rodmaking by burning through 
parts of the outer skin, the effects of which 
may be seen in the very dark blotches. Where 
this appears the material is worthless, all the 
original structure having been destroyed. It 
has been very difficult to persuade the natives 
to adopt special methods of heating for the 
purpose of straightening, in order to avoid this 
overburning; but it is satisfactory to know that 
better methods, under strict supervision, are 
now being employed." Mr. Hardy says it is 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 45 

not unusual to split up thirty to fifty culms and 
test the strips before sufficient good material 
for an 1 8-foot salmon fly-rod is obtained. 

The bamboos obtainable are generally 1%. 
to iy 2 inches in diameter at the large end and 
only four or five feet of each one can be used 
to advantage. 

Tonkin canes come from the province of that 
name in French Indo-China, on the Gulf of 
Tonkin, an arm of the China Sea. Probably 
most of them are cut in the valleys of the Black 
and Red rivers, which lie due east of Mandalay 
in Burma, and as Calcutta and Tonkin canes 
grow in the same latitude, this may account for 
the belief held by some that Tonkin canes equal 
Calcutta bamboo for rodmaking purposes. It 
is, however, a fact that very few professional 
rodmakers will admit that anything can equal 
first class Calcutta canes. A veteran says one 
reason why he is inclined to use Tonkin is found 
in the fact that good Calcutta canes are very 
difficult to obtain, and with them there is so 
much waste. 

Many of the Tonkin canes furnish thicker 
material than the other variety, and if properly 
seasoned and selected, make excellent fly- and 
bait-casting rods. Few of them are burned, 
which furnishes another reason for their popu- 



46 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

larity. Some are stained unevenly before they 
are split, and when the strips are matched and 
glued these mottled places appear here and 
there on the rod, giving the effect that is so 
pleasing to anglers of the old school who, 
through custom, prefer the mottling to the 
white enamel of unburned canes. The staining 
is a harmless process, and may be produced in 
several ways. 

Tonkin differs materially from Calcutta. 
The nodes or knots are smaller and less trouble- 
some, and in the rough beveling you can plane 
through the knots with safety. This cane is 
much coarser than Calcutta, harder, and in 
breaking a strip the surface gives way in long 
splinters, leaving softer pith strata which are 
tough but not springy. Because of its greater 
stiffness it is used for tournament rods. It re- 
sembles somewhat our Southern canes, but its 
surface is darker and the fibers reddish. It is 
harsh and glassy, soon dulls the edge of the 
plane, and must be handled carefully or the 
hands will be cut and scratched. 

It does not follow that, because some rods 
are made with double enamel, it is the better 
method. If first class bamboo is used, and the 
strips are well made and perfectly fitted, noth- 
ing can surpass the plain hexagonal rod; but 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 47 

the difficulty of obtaining good bamboo is great 
and is increasing, and it is not always possible 
to get material thick enough to make perfect 
triangular sections without resorting to the 
double enamel process in butts and joints. 
Many rods are now made the centers of which 
are hollow because of this difficulty of getting 
material thick enough to make all strips per- 
fectly triangular in section. 

In an attempt to choose between double 
enameled hexagonal bamboo and octagonal 
bamboo, the former may safely be given pref- 
erence. In an octagonal rod the butt and mid- 
dle joint are stronger, provided the caliber is 
large, but eight-strip "tips consist of so much 
glue and so little cane that they will not with- 
stand so much hard usage as will the six-strip 




Fig. 10. 
Dotted lines show section for double enamel hexagonal 
rods. 



cane, and frequently give way at the ferrules, 
particularly if the parts are carelessly twisted. 



48 AMATEUR ROBMAKING 

On the other hand, the gluing of double 
enamel hexagonal strips is partially protected 
from moisture, and if properly made a double 
enamel rod is strong and powerful. Besides, 
this method is a simple one, and double enamel 
strips are easily made in several ways, the 
common form being to plane two strips of rec- 
tangular section, glue them together and then 
file as in a single strip; the other to make a 
strip of triangular section, then plane off the 
apex of the triangle, glue another strip to the 
base, and file this down. 

In Fig. 10 the dotted lines show the form 
of the completed section, and the shaded lines 




Fig. ii. 
As finished sections of double enamel strips appear. 

the enamel. In Fig. n, a is the outer strip 
with apex of triangle planed off; b, second strip 



FISHING ROD MATERIALS 49 

glued to a; dotted lines c indicate section of 
finished strip. 

The specific gravities and weight of various 
woods mentioned are given by Mr. Wells as 
follows, the standard being distilled well water : 

Snakewood '. 1.3718 85.74 

Bethabara 1.2140 75-88 

Greenheart (dark).... 1.0908 68.18 

Jucara prieto 1.08 67.30 

Lancewood 1.0335 65.49 

Six strip split bamboo 9915 61.96 

Four strip split bamboo, enamel inside .9678 60.49 

Greenheart (light) 9643 60.26 

Dagama 90 56.10 

Hickory 7963 49.77 



CHAPTER III 

MOUNTING AND FINISHING MATERIALS 

WHAT shall the handgrasp be — solid 
cork or a form wound with cord? 
Simplicity, effectiveness, and economy 
point to cork. This statement may surprise 
you, but it is true. Cork, seemingly difficult to 
work, only requires proper treatment, and with 
it the weight of the rod can be kept down. 

The cork companies in New York, Pitts- 
burgh, and Chicago will furnish handgrasps to 
order ready to slip over a solid center. These 
are made either of solid cork discs or of suberit, 
a composition of ground cork and cement. They 
will also furnish corks similar to those used in 
vaseline bottles and one-half inch thick, at 
about seven cents per dozen for the best qual- 
ity. I generally purchase four dozen at a time, 
costing twenty-five cents, and select the best 
ones for use. The i% and i^-inch sizes are 
best for rod grasps. Some tackle dealers now 
keep rodmaking supplies in stock, and will sup- 
ply partly finished handgrasps. 

50 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 51 

Wood forms for handgrasps can be pur- 
chased from rodmakers in various lengths 
and sizes, with either single or double grasp, 
and with a hole of any size desired bored clear 
through. They cost twenty to forty cents. If 
you can have access to a lathe, however, it 
will be a pleasure to turn your own handgrasps 
from staghorn sumach, which you can obtain 
in almost any thicket during a walk in the 
country; or white pine. Bore the hole first, 
fit a plug in this, center the ends, and shape 
the outside to suit, bearing in mind that the 
cord to be wound on will increase the diam- 
eter about 1-16 inch. 

Cord for this purpose is obtainable from 
fishing tackle dealers. Light green braided 
cotton cord looks nice when varnished, and 
makes a good firm grasp, but it is inferior to 
cork. 

All ferrules, reelseats, tapers, and buttcaps 
should be German silver. These cost a trifle 
more than brass nickeled, but they are harder, 
stronger, and more durable. Besides, nickel 
glitters while German silver tarnishes just 
enough to become slightly dull, but is not in- 
juriously affected by the presence of chemicals 
in the water. 

There are only three types of ferrules that 



52 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

merit the consideration of the beginner. These 
are: 

i. For split bamboo rods, welted and 
capped (or shouldered) ferrules, with the 
caps serrated so that the silk may be wound 
over the springy saw-tooth like ends illus- 
trated in Fig. 12. The reference letter a 



a 4- 



h J^ IIIIJllIlWV' "'.'IiWj 

4 



wmm f$M)m JgS 



Fig 12. — Serrated Ferrules. 

shows the welted end of the ferrule, which 
protects and strengthens it; b is the cap or 
shoulder, which is turned down slightly at c 
to permit winding with silk, which should ex- 
tend 1-16 inch beyond the flexible serrated 
ends d and bind the ferrule rigidly on the 
wood; e is the center, or slide. The caliber of 
a set of ferrules is taken at the the point indi- 
cated by this letter. The outside diameter of 
the center at e is exactly the same as the in- 
side diameter of the ferrule. 

2. Capped and welted ferrules with the 
caps split and also turned down slightly for 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 53 

winding, as illustrated in Fig. 13. The refer- 



pww* 



miilM 



i*» )BB)) _. J 



Fig. 13. — Split Ferrules. 

ence letter / shows the capped ends turned 
down so that the cap and the silk winding will 
be the same diameter. This end is split in 
several places with a very fine saw, so that the 
silk will bind the ferrule in the same manner 
as with serrated ferrules. 

These split ferrules are excellent for split 
bamboo rods, or in fact for any rods, and they 
are often preferred to serrated ferrules. If 
anything they are neater. They can be pur- 
chased of the trade, but any amateur who can 
work metal handily can make them from plain 
capped ferrules. 

3. Capped and welted ferrules are of the 
same form as the two mentioned above, but 
the caps are plain, as shown in Fig 14. 

In all carefully made German silver fer- 
rules the outside diameter of the female fer- 
rule at g (Fig. 14) is identical with the inside 
diameter of the cap at h. This is a help to the 



54 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

novice in tapering his joints. This also applies 
to the center. In purchasing ferrules always 
specify " capped and welted ferrules, closed- 
end centers." Some of the centers are left 



X- 



1 




www' 



aim nu»i 



Fig. 14. — Plain Capped and Welted Ferrules. 

open at the bottom, which is necessary when 
dowels are to be put in. 

I have given preference to capped ferrules 
for the reason that they are better for the 
novice to work with than straight ferrules. By 
straight ferrules I mean those in which the 
female is a true cylinder inside and out. Many 
serrated and split ferrules are made straight, 
but if they are not to be fastened with pins, 
they may be set too far down on the wood 
and work loose more easily if the cementing is 
imperfectly done. It is possible to obtain 
straight ferrules which are shorter than those 
that are capped. For three-joint rods less 
than six feet in length, by using short straight 
ferrules, you can slightly lessen the total 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 55 

length of metal in the rod, and if it is to be 
quite willowy, they are excellent for the pur- 
pose. Specify either " welted straight fer- 
rules " or " welted short straight ferrules " in 
ordering, but in either case add " capped 
closed-end centers." The use of straight cen- 
ters will spoil the taper at the joint. 

Dowels should be avoided by beginners. 
The plain ferrules have, through long use, 
been proved fully equal — and in the opinion 
of most anglers, actually superior — to dow- 
eled ferrules, even for heavy salt water and 
salmon rods. In this opinion I do not concur 
with respect to very heavy rods, in which there 
is abundant space for the dowel without weak- 
ening the wood at all. For small caliber rods, 
however, the dowel has no advantage over the 
plain ferrule. Few amateurs can hope to 
properly fit doweled ferrules to a rod, the ef- 
fect being rather to weaken than to strengthen 
it. The intricate parts of the old-fashioned 
doweled ferrules may be seen in Fig. 15. 

Every ferrule should be fitted with a metal 
plug, to keep out the dust while it is in its 
case. 

Waterproof ferrules are well worth their 
slight extra cost. In these a metal disc is 
brazed or soldered in the ferrule, to prevent 



56 AMATEUR RODMAKING 




Fig. 15. — Sectional View of Doweled Ferrule. 

water from getting into the wood or bamboo. 

In purchasing a reelseat it is necessary to 
decide whether the rod is to consist of one 
piece; of a tip and a separate handgrasp; or 
of two or three joints of equal length; and in 
any case whether the grasp is to be single or 
double. 

If the rod is to be one piece, or if the hand- 
grasp is to be fitted direct to the butt of a 
two- or a three-piece rod, and is to be single, 
the reelseat should be like that pictured in 
Fig. 16. 

If the handgrasp is to be single and sepa- 
rate, then the ferrules shown in Fig. 17 will 
be needed. Of these, the center goes on the 
large end of tip and the ferrule fits into the 
tapered end of the reelseat (Fig. 16). The 
method of fitting will be described further on. 

If the handgrasp is to be double, then the 
reelseat is ordered without the tapered end, 
and a separate taper is required. (See Fig. 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 57 

1 8.) The ferrules shown in Fig. 17 can also 
be used in connection with this reelseat (Fig. 
18), as will be explained in the proper place. 

For all single-hand fly- and bait-casting rods 
reelseats of three-quarter inch diameter are 
standard, and seven-eighths or one inch for 
medium weight salt water and salmon rods. 
In ordering reelseats, the diameter of the small 
end of the taper must be specified. Generally 
these are 15-32, y 2 inch, 17-32, and 19-32 of 
an inch. 

Reelseats for fly-rods are like Fig. 18, with 
the exception that the bottoms are closed. For 
this purpose the taper is generally narrower. 




Fig. 16. — Reelseat for a Single Handgrasp. 



jggffl 



Fig. 17. — Ferrules for a Separate Handgrasp. 



AMATEUR RODMAKING 





Fig. 18— Reelseat and Taper for a Double Handgrasp. 

Stock buttcaps are generally of ^4 i ncn di- 
ameter at the large end. For bait-casting rods, 
which should have rather full grasps, one inch 





Fig. 19. — Agate Guide. 



Fig. 20. — One-ring Ger- 
man Silver Guide. 



is a better diameter. I like the small hard rub- 
ber buttons made for tarpon rods, and hollow 
these out so that they fit as a buttcap. They 
can, however, be fitted flush against the cork of 
the handgrasp without hollowing, and fastened 
on end of grasp with a screw. 

For light bait-casting rods it is nice to use 




Fig. 21.— Agate Offset Top. 

a full set of agate guides and an agate top, 
but if this increases the cost too much use an 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 59 

agate top and an agate guide nearest the reel, 
with one-ring German silver guides for the bal- 
ance of the set. There was a time when it was 
believed that large guides and tops were best, 
but it is now conceded that guides and tops of 
a caliber of 5-16 inch are large enough, safer, 
and neater. There can be no question that 
large, heavy guides affect the action of the 
rod. The agate guide shown in Fig. 19 and 
the one-ring German silver guide pictured in 
Fig. 20 have proved as good as any so far 



Fig. 22. — Hard Steel Snake Guide for Fly-rod. 

used. They are light, strong, and efficient. 
The caliber of both is 5-16 inch. 

By all means employ an agate offset top 
made like that shown in Fig. 21. In this there 
is a wire extending from the tube to the bot- 
tom of the metal ring holding the agate, while 
the two side wires prevent the line from 
catching around the top, and strengthen it. 
The tube may be tapered or cylindrical. 

For fly-rods the best guides are of hard steel, 
snake form, as shown in Fig. 22. These can 
be had in various sizes in the trade. In Fig. 
23 a steel top for fly-rods is shown. In this 



60 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

the ring is of the same form as the agates used 
for the same purpose, but the steel ring is 
made loose enough to turn in the wire that 
holds it, in order that it will not wear from 
the constant friction of the line. The wires 
are lashed to the rod tip with silk. The form 
shown in Fig. 24 differs only in that these wires 
terminate in a tube. Wires and tube are Ger- 
man silver. 

For guides and tops of fly-rods German sil- 
ver is too soft and is soon cut in grooves by 
the friction of the line. Any mechanic can 
make these loose steel tops, or they can be pur- 
chased from the importers. Agate or steel 
tops, and steel guides, are necessary for tour- 
nament fly-rods. The hand guide should be 
agate, steel, or phosphor bronze, as during the 
constant stripping in and shooting of the line 
it is held at an angle to the rod, causing con- 
siderable friction and wear on the first or hand 
guide. 

Novices who have access to machine tools 
can make guides and tops for both fly- and 
bait-casting rods of hard steel and of the form 
shown in Figs. 19-24, inclusive. Steel is in 
every way adapted to guides and tops, and if 
neatly made they are light, strong, and dur- 
able. Many novices make all of their rod fit- 



MOUNTINGAND FINISHING 61 

tings, and some of these are the best I have 
ever seen. Being unable to purchase steel tops 
for my single-hand and salmon fly-rods, I per- 
suaded a fellow angler to make several steel 
tops for me, and these have proved very satis- 
factory in tournament casting, He has also 




Fig. 23. — Steel Fly-rod 
Top, with Loose Ring and Fig. 24. — Steel Fly-rod 
Wires. Top, with Tube. 

made steel guides and tops for all his fly- and 

bait-casting rods, and his work shows what a 

novice can do if he has access to machine tools. 

I prefer phosphor bronze for the fly-rod tops. 

Agates are too easily broken. 

Perhaps the best glue for use in the making 
of split bamboo rods, and for gluing corks and 
forms for handgrasps, is French glue, obtain- 
able in paint shops. Place the glue pot in a 
kettle of water over a slow fire. The glue pot 
should have wire legs or be elevated slightly, 
else it will rest on the bottom of the kettle 
and, the water being excluded from under the 
glue pot, the glue will burn. 

Russian isinglass is also very good, but it 
should not be used a second time. Instead, 
clean the pot and prepare fresh glue each time 



62 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

it is to be used. Russian isinglass is colorless 
and for this reason is used in glass signs and 
metal work where other substances would 
show. Purchase an ounce of it and try it be- 
fore deciding to adopt it. It costs about forty 
cents an ounce, but this quantity will be suffi- 
cient for several rods. 

Much depends on how glue is prepared and 
used. I prefer Coignet No. i, the best French 
glue, soaking it overnight in cold water, then 
using it very hot but thin. It sets very quickly 
but is not brittle. Like all amateur rodmakers, 
I have made mistakes in handgrasps, etc., and 
have tried to rectify them by heating, steam- 
ing, or soaking them, to separate the parts so 
that changes might be made. It is at such times 
that one learns with what obstinacy glue will 
resist attempts to separate parts joined with it. 
I have soaked a cork handgrasp for three 
hours in steaming hot water, without making 
the slightest impression on the glue, and have 
experimented with ordinary glue and prepared 
cements, all of which resisted severe treatment 
in a manner that surprised me. 

There are several prepared cements that are 
excellent and cheap. All should be warmed, 
say in a cup of hot water. Most of them can 
be thinned with vinegar. They are perhaps 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 63 

inferior to the commercial glues that are 
soaked and prepared fresh each time they are 
to be used, but their handiness appeals to the 
novice. 

Much depends on how the glue dries in split 
bamboo. It should not become brittle -and 
break when the rod springs, nor be too sensi- 
tive to moisture. 

Ferrules can be seated with shellac, glue, or 
various cements. I have found the cement 
known as Hercules very satisfactory. It is 
obtainable in the trade in twenty-five cent sticks. 
A very good article, known as the Fishing 
Gazette ferrule cement, can be made as follows : 

Clear rosin, i ounce; boiled linseed oil, I 
teaspoonful; gutta percha, i drachm. Melt 
together, pour into water, and pull. 

I have used silk wax with satisfaction made 
after a formula given by the late John Har- 
rington Keene. It is as follows: 

Best yellow rosin, 2 ounces; white beeswax, 
sliced, i drachm. 

Dissolve by slow heat and add 2^2 drachms 
fresh unsalted lard. Stir for ten minutes, pour 
into water, and pull. It is to be wrapped in a 
bit of chamois skin and kept out of the dust. 

In this, as in the ferrule cement, it is well to 
rub your hands slightly with vaseline before 



64 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

taking the wax out of the cold water, as other- 
wise it will adhere to the fingers at first. 

Another formula, which is recommended by 
Colonel R. F. Meysey-Thompson, in his " An- 
gling Catechism," follows: 

Powdered white rosin, gum arabic, and lano- 
line, one part each; or two parts rosin and 
no gum arabic. Simmer together until melted, 
add a few drops of essence of lemon, pour into 
cold water, pull and roll until of the proper 
consistency, when it can be cut into cakes and 
wrapped in chamois skin. If too soft, add 
rosin; if too hard, add lanoline. Obviously 
it must be kept free from dust. 

The best colorless substance obtainable for 
use in waxing silk thread for winding rods or 
making artificial flies is mentioned by the late 
Harry G. McClelland in his excellent little 
book " The Fly-dresser's Cabinet of Devices. " 
It is made by melting together equal parts 
(bulk) of amber rosin and turpentine and pour- 
ing into collapsible metal tubes such as artists 
use. When a thread is to be waxed, a little of 
the liquid is squeezed out of the tube on the fin- 
ger and thumb, between which the thread is 
passed several times. The surplus wax is then 
removed from the fingers with a drop of tur- 
pentine. Fly-tyers use this liquid in preference 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 65 

to the silk wax mentioned above, as the latter 
is more likely to get hard and brittle in time 
through exposure to the air, and it is difficult to 
keep it clean and colorless. 

You will need a small bottle of the best grain 
alcohol shellac for coating all silk windings to 
preserve their original color. This is not to be 
used on the rod proper, however. 

The best varnish I have ever used on rods 
of all kinds is known as extra light coach. It 
comes in cans of all sizes fitted with air tight 
tin caps. It is better to get the smallest size, 
one-half pint, as when repeatedly exposed to 
the air it dries slowly unless thinned with tur- 
pentine, and this color makers invariably ad- 
vise you not to do, as the thinning agency 
detracts from its good qualities. Instead it 
should be heated in a vessel of hot water. This 
varnish is elastic, does not crack, and dries 
quickly with a beautiful gloss if used while 
quite warm. 

Spar varnish is also good, but several coats 
of it are required, it lacks luster, and dries 
slowly unless exposed to sun and wind. 

Purchase a three-quarter inch oval or flat 
brush of good quality for the varnish, and a 
thin, round artist's brush for the shellac. Both 
should be washed carefully immediately after 



66 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

being used in hot water and soap, then dried 
and laid away out of the dust. 

Amateur fishing rod makers experience dif- 
ficulty in obtaining silk of suitable sizes for 
winding their rods. Those who live in small 
towns can only obtain size A or larger, which 
is too coarse for fly-rods and for the slender 
bait-casting rods used so much in bass fishing 
and in tournament casting. No silk finer than 
A is carried by dry goods firms, but in this 
size every imaginable color and shade may be 
had. 

To be sure, some of the fishing tackle deal- 
ers carry O and 00 in red, green, yellow and 
black; but if one is particular and asks for a 
certain shade, the dealer does not always have 
it, and the next shade may prove disappointing 
if you happen to have part of your winding 
finished and desire a shade that will match 
nicely. The wholesale silk houses will not sell 
to an individual in small lots as a rule, although 
they may sometimes condescend to let him have 
a given number of spools. No amateur could 
possibly use a quantity of silk, even if he were 
to wind every one of his rods solidly with it, 
and after several disappointments he is likely 
to fall back on A, even if it does finish up in 



MOUNTING AND FINISHING 67 

lumps and welts that are not in keeping with 
the careful work he has put on the other de- 
tails of his rod. 

There is one advantage in size A, however: 
every little store handling dry goods carries all 
colors and every shade that will match dress 
goods of silk, cotton, or wool. If you have 
never noticed this, ask a saleswoman for a 
spool of green silk, and she will show you a 
score or more, and every one a different shade 
of green. No wonder you cannot buy silk by 
mail that will suit you, merely by naming a 
color. How this size can be split and used 
for all windings is described further on. 

In selecting silk there is always the tempta- 
tion to purchase more than you can ever use 
or give away, particularly shades that will dis- 
appoint you if wound on the rod and varnished. 
There are certain combinations that do not 
give the barber-pole effect so many anglers ob- 
ject to, yet are durable as to color. Black is a 
hideous color for a nice rod, but it looks well 
as borders for yellow or orange. Some shades 
of yellow lose all color under the varnish, and 
cream color becomes semi-transparent, and is 
often employed for that very reason. Blue, 
lilac, and pale red fade rapidly when exposed 



68 AMATEUR BOBMAKING 

to the sun, and purple, often seen on some rods, 
is not always lasting. Bright or flame red and 
medium apple green are generally satisfactory, 
but their brilliancy depends a great deal on 
what sort of varnish protects them from the 
wearing of the line in casting — particularly on 
a fly-rod. 

In addition to the winding silk, purchase a 
tiny spool of buttonhole silk of any color, to 
be used in pulling the ends of the winding silk 
through and forming " endless " windings. Its 
use is explained in the proper place. 

A spool of cotton or linen thread is also 
handy for use in tying guides on temporarily 
while testing your rods. If it is waxed it will 
be much more effective. I use linen for this 
purpose, fastening the guides in place with it 
while aligning them, then cutting the thread 
when the guide is partly fastened with silk. 



CHAPTER IV 

TOOLS NEEDED IN RODMAKING 

IN preparing to make a fishing rod, after 
the wood and metal parts have been ob- 
tained, the next thing to consider is a 
workbench. If one is not at hand, and you do 
not know any carpenter or mechanic who will 
let you use his bench at odd times, a makeshift 
will answer. If a bit of plank can be laid 
across a table and secured against wobbling, 
it will serve. 

Of course a large iron vise will be very use- 
ful, but if this is not available, one of the little 
iron vises to be had in hardware stores for a 
dollar or less will answer very well; in fact, 
you cannot afford to be without one if you are 
fond of making and repairing small articles. 

The tools you will require are few and sim- 
ple. At least two iron planes will be needed, 
one of medium size and the other very small, 
say four inches long, for finishing. Get a small 
oilstone in a wooden case, and never neglect 
to clean it carefully and wrap it in a cloth after 
69 



70 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

using it, as otherwise its pores will become 
clogged with gummed oil and dust, rendering 
it worse than useless. 

You will need one rather coarse flat file, say 
fourteen inches long, and a fine flat or three- 



Fig. 25. — Micromeetr Caliper. 

cornered file, the latter preferred for split 
bamboo work. Also get a sheet of fine emery 
cloth; coarse, medium, and fine sandpaper; a 
small, thin saw; a flat steel scraper. A drill 
stock and several small drills are always use- 
ful. 

Calipers of some sort are necessary. The 
best obtainable is the micrometer caliper reg- 
istering thousandths of an inch, with scales 
showing equivalents in 8ths, i6ths, 32ds, and 
64ths. One of these costs about $4, but its 
graduations are so fine that it is useful in other 
w r ork as well as in rodmaking, and is almost 
indispensable for the angler who wishes to ob- 
tain exact calibers of rods, lines, silkworm gut, 
etc. These calipers are made by several firms, 
and all are of the form illustrated in Fig. 25. 



TOOLS NEEDED 71 

The size which is graduated in thousandths, 
and will take work up to an inch in diameter, 
is best for your purpose. 

The next best caliper is the one shown in 
Fig. 26, or a similar device with sliding arm 
and scale graduated to 64ths and opening two 
inches. This is the most practical caliper for 
the beginner, as it is simple and small. Its 
cost is about $1.50. It has a lock nut and the 
reverse side gives iooths of an inch. 

A much cheaper gauge is made of brass and 
boxwood, similar in form to Fig. 26. One of 




Fig. 26. — A Simple Form of Caliper. 

these will answer very well, although the grad- 
uations are coarser than those of the other 
calipers mentioned. 

There are several devices that are used by 
some amateur rod builders which are not abso- 
lutely necessary, but they are handy and can 
be made to take the place of calipers at times. 

You will not make your rod a true taper 
from handgrasp to top, but it will help you to 
know how to do this, for the tapering of the 



72 AMATEUR BODMAKING 



square stock can be made nearly uniform at 
first, in the rough. 

Take a piece of cardboard and draw two 
straight lines 4^2 inches long, 15-32 of an 
inch apart at one end, and 7-64 of an inch at 
the other. This represents a uniform taper 
from the handgrasp to the top of a 5 ^2 -foot 
rod. Mark off spaces every half inch to rep- 
resent every six-inch station from handgrasp 
to top, and number them 6, 12, etc., up to 54. 
The distance between the horizontal lines at 
every mark will give the caliber of the rod at 
that point; that is, the length of the mark 
numbered 24 will be equal to the diameter of 
the rod 24 inches from the handgrasp, if the 



i 



Fig. 27. — Taper Gauge. 

taper is uniform. Fig. 27 explains the method. 
To make the diagram handier, let the horizon- 
tal lines be 9, 18, or 36 inches long, dividing 
the total into nine spaces of equal length, the 
result being alike in every case if the distances 
at the ends are exactly what the rod is to be 
at taper and top. 



TOOLS NEEDED 73 

Now, take a piece of brass and by sawing 
first and trimming with a file afterward, form 
a slot ^y 2 inches deep, 15-32 inch wide at the 
top, and 7-64 inch wide at the bottom. Every 
half inch scratch a line across and mark these 
6, 12, etc., with a sharp-pointed instrument. 
This will serve as a gauge for uniform taper- 
ing. 

If, however, you have decided what the 
caliber of your rod is to be at every six-inch 
station, you can utilize a piece of brass with 
ten square notches filed in its edges, the largest 
being 15-32 inch and the smallest 7-64, every 
notch to be equal in width to the caliber of the 
rod at the corresponding station. These can 
be numbered from 6 to 54, respectively, in half 
feet. 

For smoothing off rough places on metal fit- 
tings, taking the sharp corners off guides and 
many other little details, a fine three-cornered 
file will be very useful. I prefer the needle file 
because it will fit into a loop in the cover of 
my fly-book, and it can be used in lieu of a 
saw on occasion. A file of this sort is about 
six inches long, flat on one side, and slightly 
convex on the other. Its width is about one- 
eighth inch in the center, tapering to a fine 



74 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

point. Although somewhat delicate, its high 
tempering prevents frequent breakage, and it 
can be used on rod fittings without scratching 
more than with emery cloth. 



CHAPTER V 

TYPES OF BAIT-CASTING RODS 

TO some persons it may seem that while 
an eleven-foot rod must be nicely ta- 
pered and balanced, a rod only half as 
long, being more or less stick-like, if made a 
given caliber, will answer. Nothing could be 
further from the truth. While it is a fact that 
a rod $y 2 feet in length requires less time and 
material than one of the old-fashioned long 
bait-fishing rods, it must be even more care- 
fully made, for an error of one-sixty-fourth of 
an inch in the caliber of butt or tip may render 
it comparatively worthless. A mistake in the 
long rod may be hidden in its greater resilience, 
and this may save it, but reduce the length by 
one-half and you more than double the work 
required of each foot. 

For a long time after I first began to experi- 
ment with the modern bait-casting rods I felt 
sure that, for an all-round rod one of six feet 
or slightly longer seemed preferable to those 
of lesser lengths. Exhaustive experiments with 

73 



76 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

rods of various lengths and with reels and 
lines, in fishing and in tournament casting, have 
convinced me that if we make our bait-casting 
rods as delicate, relatively, as our fly-rods, and 
still retain ample resilience, strength, and back- 
bone, 5J4 feet seems a very good average 
length. 

Numerous well-known advocates of short 
rods have arrived at the same conclusion. So 
well known are they that their advice seems 
worthy, especially as their conclusions have 
been proved sound by the vast number of 5 54- 
foot rods used in the national casting tourna- 
ments and in bass fishing. 

Sometimes it is said that the modern bait- 
casting rod, like the long bow of merry Eng- 
land, should be proportioned to the owner's 
height and strength. There may be some- 
thing in this, but I would hesitate to assert 
that a six-footer should select a rod of his 
height, and a man of medium stature one of 
five feet. 

Who was first to advance this theory I do 
not know, but Alfred Ronalds, in his " Fly- 
Fisher's Entomology" (London, 1836), said 
of salmon and trout fly-rods: 

"Like the bow of the archer, the rod of the 
angler should be duly proportioned in dimen- 



BAIT-CASTING RODS 77 

sions and weight to the strength and stature 
of him who wields it." 

Possibly a short man may get better results 
with a five foot rod than with one of six feet, 
but there is little to recommend any rod 
shorter than five feet, since it must be stubby 
if badly proportioned, or weak if of too small 
diameter. If the handgrasp is less than twelve 
inches in length, and the taper begins at 15-32 
of an inch and is hollow for a short distance, 
then gradual to the top, with a diameter there 
of 7-64 inch, the 66-inch rod will be equally 
serviceable for fishing and for practice in 
tournament casting. It may well be termed an 
all-round rod. 

In view of these facts, as well as for the 
sake of brevity and simplicity, I will try to in- 
struct beginners in making bait rods $y 2 feet 
in length. The application of the same princi- 
ples to the making of rods of other lengths 
will follow naturally and fly-rods will be treated 
separately. 

Several things must be considered by the be- 
ginner before he obtains his rod materials : 

First. It is evident that the ideal rod is one 
made of a single length of wood or split bam- 
boo, with a handgrasp permanently glued on 
its large end. But while this is particularly 



78 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

true of split bamboo, it does not apply with 
equal force to wood, as it is more difficult to 
obtain a slender straight-grained piece of wood 
sixty-six inches in length and free from knots 
and other imperfections. Still, this is not im- 
possible. 

Second. A rod with only one joint. Such 
rods are frequently made with a long tip and 
a separate handgrasp. This is a most excellent 
type, and rods of this form are very popular. 
They are more compact than the one-piece 
rods, and almost if not quite equal to them. 

Third. A rod consisting of a butt and a 
tip of the same length. This is not quite the 
equal of rods of the second class, but much 
more handy to make and to carry about. 
Theoretically the ferrule should not be placed 
in the middle of the rod; practically a very 
good rod can be so made. Its simplicity is 
marked. It is a very common type, particu- 
larly in salt water fishing. I have made sev- 
eral rods, each consisting of one length, and 
have invariably cut them in two later on, plac- 
ing the ferrule in the middle, or in the thick 
part near the handgrasp. Very little difference 
in the action of these rods, before and after 
altering, was noticeable. 

Fourth. A rod consisting of a butt, a joint, 



BAIT-CASTING RODS 79 

and a tip, all of equal length. This is the most 
common type known to-day, the handiest for 
carrying, but with its faults. Its ferrules are, 
in theory, placed to better advantage than are 
those of the rod of the second class. Practice 
undoubtedly proves this theory correct. In a 
rod of s 1 /* feet, however, the ferrules mate- 
rially stiffen it at these two points, and it must 
be very carefully proportioned. 



CHAPTER VI 

ONE-PIECE BAIT-CASTING RODS 

A SSUMING that you have obtained all the 
l\ materials needed, we will begin our ac- 
tual rodmaking, taking the rods as they 
are given and commencing with one of the first 
class, as it is the easiest type to make. As your 
rod, when finished, is to be $y 2 feet long, the 
agate top adding about y$ of an inch, the wood 
should be slightly more than $y 2 feet long, to 
allow for cutting down finally to 6$}i inches. 
Assuming that your wood is J^-inch square 
and free from knots, plane it a trifle on all sur- 
faces and from both ends, to determine which 
way the grain runs; and having decided which 
shall be the butt end, drill two holes through 
the wood very close to that end, as shown in 
Fig. 28, and drive a brad in the right-hand end 
of your workbench, so that you can hook the 
big end of the wood over the brad and plane 
away from it, which is much more satisfactory 
than butting the small end of the wood against 
a cleat at the far end of the bench. 

80 



ONE-PIECE RODS 81 




Arranging the Wood for Planing. 



Plane the wood until it is straight and true, 
the gauge showing that it is y 2 inch thick on 
each side throughout its length. If it is 
crooked, do not worry, and do not attempt to 
correct this by planing more off one side than 
the other. It can be straightened perfectly 
later on. Mark the exact center at each end 
with two lines crossing in the center. 

If your handgrasp is to be single, mark a 
point ten inches from the butt end and continue 
the line entirely around the wood. This will 
allow you to saw off an inch where the holes 
are, and give you space for a nine-inch hand- 
grasp. If the grasp is to be double, allow 
twelve inches, for an eleven-inch grasp. 

Begin at your pencil mark and plane care- 
fully and evenly to the tip end on all sides. 
Use the caliper frequently, noting the diam- 
eter every six inches. If there is a thick place, 
mark it heavily with the pencil and plane that 
part lightly, then continue to reduce all sides 
until you have a nice even taper and the small 



82 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

end is 5-32 of an inch thick. Holding the tip 
end on the floor, exert a slight pressure and 
note the curve of the whole piece, which should 
arch nicely, the curve diminishing gradually 
toward the butt. Turn it, and see if the 
spring is fairly uniform on all sides. 

Now caliper carefully and trim off uneven 
places until the diameter of both sides is exactly 
alike at each six-inch station. Use the small 
plane for this work, setting it very fine. 

A piece of board with a groove in one edge, 
preferably four feet long, is now in order. 
Pine tongue-and-groove stuff, used for parti- 
tions, is ideal. Its value for other branches of 
rodmaking will be explained further on. Plane 
the edge, so that the groove will be shallow at 
the tip end, and fasten it in the vise or nail it 
lightly to the side of the bench. Lay the rod 
in the groove, with one of the four corners 
uppermost, and setting your small plane a trifle 
coarse, take off the corner evenly from butt to 
tip, ignoring your pencil mark. 

Turn to the next corner and plane it, thert 
the other two. Use the utmost care in trans- 
forming the strip from square to octagon form, 
and caliper frequently until it is of exactly the 
same diameter on every side at each six-inch 
station. You are now shaping the strip, so that 



ONE-PIECE RODS 83 

the next step will make it round, and in this 
stage haste will work sad havoc with later 
plans. The eye, the caliper and testing the 
arch must all be depended on at this stage. 
Every one of the eight sides must be uniform. 
A perfect strip is illustrated in Fig. 36, p. 103. 

Setting your small plane very fine again, lay 
the strip in the groove and take off one of the 
corners the full length. Turn to the next one 
and remove it, and so on. The rod is now ap- 
proximately round, cylindrical in its first foot, 
then tapering gradually to the small end. 

There are various ways to make it perfectly 
round. One is to lay it flat on the bench, and 
holding it under the palm of the left hand, roll 
it backward and forward while sandpapering 
it with a sheet of that abrasive folded over a 
block of wood, held in the right hand and 
moved rapidly up and down the rod. I prefer 
the flat steel scraper, and turn the rod rapidly 
while working from end to end, using the 
grooved board to hold it steady. 

Stop frequently and draw the rod through 
the fingers to locate uneven places. If none 
are found, go over the rod thoroughly with 
sandpaper folded and held in the hand with- 
out the block. You are now ready for final 
tapering. 



84 AMATEUR BOBMAKING 

At this stage I take a strip of paper the full 
length of the rod and draw two parallel lines 
on it, each 6$y% inches in length. The upper 
line I mark " rough calibers," and the lower 
line " final calibers." Marks are placed on each 
line to indicate the place where the taper of 
the handgrasp is to be, then every six inches 
to the tip end. Lay the rod beside the upper 
line on your paper, caliper it at every station, 
and set these figures down on the correspond- 
ing mark. Note them carefully, for if the 
wood has been planed properly in the square, 
the tapers will be nearly uniform from hand- 
grasp to tip-end, but the wood will not, in this 
form, be properly proportioned for use. 

If you were working by rule-of-thumb, with- 
out a rod to copy, the only thing would be to 
put a top and guides on the rod temporarily, 
fasten a reel on the butt with cord, run the 
line through, attach a quarter- or half-ounce 
weight, and try a few casts; but the formula 
in Fig. 29 will save time. These calibers were 
taken from several bethabara rods that have 
seen long use in fishing and practice casting. 

If the wood is dagama or greenheart, add 
1-64 of an inch or a trifle less to each diam- 
eter given. Try the rod before deciding, for 
the action varies with different pieces of wood, 



ONE-PIECE RODS 85 

and none can be exactly alike. In Fig. 29 the 
lower line of figures mark the six-inch stations ; 
the upper figures the final calibers of a beth- 
abara rod. It will be noted that, commenc- 
ing at the cylindrical butt end, the calibers de- 



* -<* *& **4 %2 % %» & & 



Fig. 29. — Calibers of a Bethabara Rod. 

crease rapidly to the thirty-inch station, then 
are nearly uniform to a point close to the top. 

Mark these calibers on the lower line of 
your paper, and note the variations between 
them and the calibers of your rod. Then 
scrape or sandpaper from your pencil mark to- 
ward the tip, gauging often until your rod is 
very nearly as small as it is to be finally. Now 
tie on a reel, guides, and top and try the rod 
in casting. If it pleases you, go over it lightly 
with fine sandpaper and fit the agate top per- 
manently. Use a flat file in tapering the wood 
to fit the tube snugly. Heat your ferrule ce- 
ment and coat the wood lightly with it, then 
heat the tube of the top, push it home, and turn 
it around until the inside is evenly coated with 
cement. 

Measure from agate top to butt and saw the 



86 AMATEUR ROBMAKING 

latter at the 66-inch mark. Warm the agate 
top over the flame of a match and remove it 
for the present. 

Select a number of corks and warm your 
glue. A piece of thin 15-32 inch tubing is now 
needed. An old ferrule will answer. File the 
outside of one end until the edge is sharp. 
Holding the tube in the center of a cork, with 
a pad in the palm of the hand to prevent that 
end from cutting you, turn the tube evenly until 
it cuts through the cork like a wad-cutter. The 
result will surprise you — a nice smooth hole 
through this seemingly difficult substance to 
work. Do not, however, try to hammer the 
tube through the cork. 

Drop this cork circlet over the tip of your 
rod and push it slowly down to the butt, the 
last inch of which has previously been coated 
with hot glue. Punch out another cork, slide 
it down, coat the first one with glue, press them 
into close contact. Proceed in this manner 
until you have ten corks on the rod, giving you 
a handgrasp approximately five inches long. 

Now procure a piece of white pine 5 inches 
long and 3/J inch in diameter. Bore a 15-32- 
hole through it and round off the outside until 
it will go inside the reelseat easily. This should 
be perfectly made, and it may be best to have 
it turned in a lathe. Taper one end until it 



ONE-PIECE RODS 87 

will fit the taper of the reelseat nicely, while 
the other end should lack a quarter-inch of 
being as long as the reelseat. Slide this pine 
sleeve down over the rod (see Fig. 30), coat 



?f 



wrnlwiESm 






Fig. 30. — Corks in Place and Sleeve Ready to Be Glued 
On. 



the rod and the uppermost cork with glue, 
press the pine sleeve home and put the rod 
aside for a couple of days until the glue dries. 

If you want the handgrasp to be shaped in 
a certain way and be nicely finished, have it 
turned in a lathe. I prefer to have mine per- 
fectly cylindrical throughout, and press the reel- 
seat into the top cork, leaving a right-angled 
shoulder to serve in lieu of a finger hook. I 
take a piece of sandpaper, folded round a block 
of wood, and turning the rod rapidly, work 
back and forth lengthwise of the grasp, gaug- 
ing frequently, then using fine sandpaper until 
the grasp is cut down to 1 1-16 inch in diam- 
eter. 

Taper the lower corks until the buttcap will 
fit snugly. Warm the buttcap, rub a little ce- 



88 AMATEUR EOBMAKING 

ment inside, push it home, and when it is cold 
drill a hole in it and into the butt of the rod, 
drive a brass pin home and file it off flush with 
the surface of the cap. Wipe off surplus ce- 
ment. 

In fitting the reelseat over the pine sleeve, 
place the hooded end down, so that in fitting 
the reel to the seat the band will pull down 
and in this way bring the reel near the hand, so 
that the index finger will grip the cork shoulder 
and render your control of the reel and rod 
firm. If the yoke of the reel fits the seat as it 
should, and the band is tight, the reel will never 
work loose, even in a long fight with a big fish. 

The three-quarter-inch commercial reelseat 
is about \Y 2 inches long, and for bait-rods the 
correct way — in theory, at least — is to fit it 
with the sliding band at the bottom, so that the 
band will push forward over the reel-yoke and 
counteract the tendency of the reel to work 
loose in playing a fish. Fitted with the hood 
on the upper end of the reelseat, the reel goes 
so far forward that more than an inch of the 
seat is exposed, and the right hand must grip 
this metal instead of the firmer and less slip- 
pery cork or cord wound grasp; hence, the 
shape of a well-formed grasp counts for less 
than it should. 



ONE-PIECE RODS 89 

If the handgrasp is single, the length of the 
reelseat does not so much matter, but when the 
grasp is double I prefer to cut the reelseat 
down to a length of ^H inches, and also file 
the after end of the reel-yoke until its length is 
only 2% inches. This brings the reel nearer 
the hand, and also places the upper grasp 
where the left hand can rest on it in spooling 
the line. 

Formerly I made all my bait-casting rods 
with double handgrasps, but have finally ar- 
rived at the conclusion that for tournament 
casting the upper grasp is a useless thing that 
serves only to stiffen the rod at that point. I 
always grasp the reel in spooling line and in 
playing a fish, holding the reel with three fin- 
gers of the left hand, while the index finger and 
the thumb spool the line. Making the grasp 
single and short adds to the resilience of the 
rod and makes it neater, and easier to build. 
I always place the hooded end of the seat down, 
and if the band is wedged tightly over the 
yoke, as it should be, there is no play. A 
great many sea and other rods are made with 
the hooded end down. 

See that the yoke of your reel is standard. 
Formerly every manufacturer made yokes as 
best suited his fancy, but some twenty years 



90 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

ago the National Rod and Reel Association 
adopted three standards for reel-yokes. The 
smallest, ^4-inch, was cut on the arc of a ten- 
cent piece; for %-inch reelseats, a nickel; and 
for i-inch reelseats, a silver quarter. Nearly 
all manufacturers follow these gauges. 

Assemble all the parts of the reelseat and 
push it down over the pine sleeve, working it 
well into the topmost cork, to form a water- 
proof joint. If the taper fits the tapered end of 
the pine sleeve, remove the seat, coat the sleeve 
with cement or glue and push the reelseat 
home. A brass pin through the hooded end 
and reelseat will fix the metal parts of your 
handgrasp rigidly. This pin should merely 
enter the wood of the rod, but not penetrate 
far, or it may weaken it. I prefer to set two 
very small brass camera screws, one on each 
side of the hood, and two of these instead of 
one pin in the buttcap. They are not so likely 
to work loose as is the case with pins. They 
should be }i inch long. 

Now go over the rod with the finest sand- 
paper, wet the wood to raise the grain, let it 
dry, then cut it down with a bit of well-worn 
fine sandpaper, polish diligently with shavings 
from the rod, and finally rub with tissue paper 
until you secure a high gloss. Replace the 



ONE-PIECE RODS 91 

agate top, rub the rod with coach varnish on a 
rag, and suspend it on a brad in an airy or 
sunny place free from dust until it is dry. If 
it is crooked, let it hang with a heavy reel in 
place. 

Tie the guides on with cord, attach a reel, 
and practice with the rod until you are satis- 
fied — either that it suits you or that it needs 
reducing a trifle in places where it seems too 
stiff. 

Just here it is well to quote the late Major 
Traherne, who, in " The Badminton Library 
on Salmon and Trout," said of the greenheart 
salmon rod: 

" I am at a loss how to describe it, but its 
virtue lies in an equal distribution of strength, 
in proportion, from the butt to the point. A 
heavy butt, with no spring to it, and with a 
weak top, is of little use for casting purposes 
beyond a certain distance. The spring should 
be felt, to a certain extent, to the bottom of 
the butt when casting; and I consider a rod 
which does not possess this quality of little or 
no value." 

This applies to all rods, whether for lure or 
fly-casting; but in finishing the bait-rod it is 
well to remember that for quick, snappy cast- 
ing the taper from the middle to the tip-end 



92 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

should be more rapid than in a rod intended 
for slow, even casting with light lures, and for 
accuracy casting. In this the taper may be 
rapid for a short distance, then slow to the tip, 
giving greater resilience to the whole rod, but 
retaining strength near the handgrasp. 

Several trials should satisfy you with the 
rod. If it is reduced in places, finish as before, 
with the final coat of varnish rubbed in. This 
thin coat serves as a protection under the silk 
windings, which, as will be explained in the 
proper place, are put on without wax. You are 
now ready to wind and varnish the rod. 

If you decide to wind the grasp with cord, 
procure one of the pine single grasps which 
cost about twenty cents, and trim it to fit the 
reelseat snugly, tapering at the forward end to 
fit the metal taper. Slide it down over the rod 
and glue it in place. When dry form a shoul- 
der at the bottom so the cord will end there, as 
shown in Fig. 31, and wind with cord. The 
cord should be covered for a quarter-inch at 
the butt by the cap, and for an equal distance 
at the other end by the reelseat. The latter is 
put on in the same fashion as with a cork 
grasp. 

If you wish to make a double cork grasp, 
the reelseat and taper shown in Fig. 18 are 



ONE-PIECE SODS 93 

necessary. In this case the corks for the lower 
grasp are followed with a pine sleeve a quar- 
ter-inch shorter at each end than the reelseat. 
This is cemented on and another cork pressed 
down until it butts against the sleeve and is 
pierced slightly by the upper end of the reel- 
seat. More corks are glued on until the de- 
sired length of the small upper grasp is at- 
tained, then the glue given time to dry. The 
cork is then worked down, tapering forward 
until the small metal taper finishes it off. This 
is cemented lightly in place. 

A double grasp, cord wound, requires more 
care. It is first necessary to obtain a pine 
grasp, bored through. These come in the 
shape shown in Fig. 32, and much longer than 
necessary. Saw in the middle, fit, and wind 
the lower grasp, try the reelseat and cut off 
the cylindrical part of the grasp so that the 
joint will come under the reel, rather below 
the center. Attach the reelseat permanently 
and fit the upper grasp, making it fit snugly, 
but allowing for the thickness of the cord to 
be wound over it. Now wind a dozen turns 
of cord over the upper grasp (see Fig. 33) 
and try it, removing the cord and taking off 
a little wood until it will butt against the other 
end under the reelseat. Replace the cord, 



94, AMATEUR EODMAKING 



i ummt/ntuiifiMSMM*,,,.**,*,,. A 



Fig. 31. — Cord-wound Pine Handgrasp. 




nii»»ti))m>iM)i»))i)i))>i/wwii»»i»»)Wfi. 



Fig. 32. — Pine Handgrasp, Double. 



Fig- 33- — Upper Grasp Ready for Gluing in Place. 

coat the rod and inside of sleeve with glue and 
push it home. Continue the winding until the 
upper grasp is covered, then tie off and fit the 
taper (Fig. 18) snugly in place. 

These cord-wound grasps should be given 
two coats of shellac and one of coach varnish 
as soon as they are dry. It must be remem- 
bered that small cord, when varnished, is 
somewhat slippery when wet, and large cord 
is harsh to the hand. If the size is equal to 
that of D or E silk lines it will make a good 
grasp. 

I prefer the cork grasps for many reasons, 
among them being the ease with which they 
can be made after one has had a little practice. 
Cork must be humored, as it were. If you find 
that sandpapering the grasp lengthwise does 
not result in a velvety finish, secure the rod in 



ONE-PIECE RODS 95 

a vise after wrapping it with several thicknesses 
of cloth, and with a long strip of the finest 
sandpaper, go over the grasp just as a boot- 
black does with his polishing cloth, turning the 
rod occasionally. You will soon learn to im- 
part a nice finish, and this will prove that you 
can, on a pinch, get along without the use of 
a lathe. 



CHAPTER VII 

ONE-PIECE BAIT-CASTING RODS WITH SEPA- 
RATE HANDGRASPS 

TO make a rod of the second class, in 
which the handgrasp is to be single and 
nine inches in length, the wood for the 
tip, inclusive of the agate top, will be approxi- 
mately 5$ J /2 inches long, as the ferrule center 
on the large end of the tip will enter the hand- 
grasp ferrule about I 1 /* inches. These fer- 
rules should be 15-32 of an inch in diameter 
and of the type shown in Fig. 17. The large 
end of tip is marked for a distance equal to 
the small end of the center, and the wood care- 
fully reduced with a file until it will enter the 
center snugly to its very end, as illustrated in 
Fig. 34. The center is then cemented on, and 
the tip is ready for its rubbed coat of varnish 
and the winding. Obviously this tip is to be 
made of the same diameter as rods of the first 
class — described in a preceding chapter — save 
that it begins to taper at the ferrule. 

Rods of this class are not always made with 
96 



SEPARATE HANDGRASPS 97 

two tips, but this can be done by purchasing 
two centers to fit the ferrule in the handgrasp. 
By making one tip as described above, and the 



%mmminiM% 



mimivnumivm)iimw»v}jW)i))nj)))»))wnw,in)}), »,,,,, 



\Mmmmmmwmmk mmjn ^ 



Fig. 34. — Large End of Tip, Shouldered to Fit a Capped 
Ferrule Center. 

other one with a rapid or hollow taper for six 
inches above the ferrule, then gradual to the 
small end, practically two rods will be the re- 
sult. One tip can be stiff, for distance casting, 
and the other one more willowy, for accuracy 
or light lure casting — a very useful combina- 
tion. I have made a tip of this sort from beth- 
abara which will cast a quarter-ounce lure 
nicely, and is so well proportioned that it is a 
pleasant rod to fish with. The dimensions 
follow, and may be compared for reference 
with those given in Fig. 29. The center is 
15-32 of an inch, and the wood tapers quickly 
at first, to 23-64 at the six-inch mark; at 12 
inches, 21-64; l $ inches, 19-64; two feet, 17-64; 
2j4 feet, 15-64; three feet, 13-64; 3j4 feet, 
11-64; four feet, 5-32; 4J4 feet, y s ; S^ J A 
inches, at the top, 7-64 of an inch. 



98 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

A separate single handgrasp can be made as 
follows: Fit the ferrule (Fig. 17) on a piece 
of light but springy wood like spruce, dagama, 
or greenheart. This must be rounded nicely 
and the ferrule seated on it just so that the 

U : 1 }^ ll))))nillll!ll))lllllllll})llllill$ 





Fig. 35- — Ferrule Riveted on Wood Core of Hand- 
grasp, Pine Sleeve Ready to Be Glued On, and Reelseat 
and Corks for Grasp. 

center will not touch the wood. Cement and 
rivet the ferrule on to the core, fit a pine 
sleeve over the wood and the ferrule, with 
forward end of sleeve tapered to fit a reel- 
seat like that shown in Fig. 16. Now try the 
reel-seat, and when it fits snugly, with its lower 
end extending a quarter-inch below the pine 
sleeve, glue the sleeve on the wood and the 
reel-seat on it, and rivet or screw the reel- 
seat in place. 

Slide a perforated cork forward over the 
wood and work the end of the reel-seat into 
it until it butts against the end of the sleeve. 



SEPARATE HANDGRASPS 99 

Glue this cork in place, following with others 
until the total length of grasp, inclusive of 
reel-seat, is nine inches, when the wood core 
is cut off and the cork finished and fitted with 
a butt-cap. A handgrasp of this form will 
never come apart if properly made. Its parts 
are anchored at both ends. 

If to be cord-wound, the pine grasp is fitted 
over the wood core and ,ferrule, jthe taper 
placed over the ferrule and the grasp fitted to 
it, as in Fig. 35. Beginning at a point that 
will be covered by the after end of the reel- 
seat, the grasp is wound a few turns with cord 
and the reel-seat fitted over it. The core is 
then coated with glue and the grasp pushed 
forward until the reel-seat and the tapered 
end of the grasp fit closely, when the winding 
is resumed and tied off at the shouldered butt 
end. The butt cap and reel-seat being riveted 
in place, this separate grasp is ready for shel- 
lac and varnish. 

If to be double, and cord-wound, the for- 
ward grasp is first fitted over the wood core, 
the taper (Fig. 18) pushed up against the welt 
on the ferrule, and a few turns of cord wound 
on the tapered end of the upper grasp, then 
this grasp glued in place on the wooden core, 
with the winding covered by the taper. Con- 



100 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

tinue to wind down to the cylindrical part, fit 
the reel-seat and glue it on, wind a few turns 
over the lower grasp, try it, and finally glue 
it in place; then wind to the shouldered butt 
end and fit the butt cap. The two parts of 
the pine grasp abut inside the reel-seat, as 
illustrated in Fig. 33. 



CHAPTER VIII 

TWO-PIECE BAIT-CASTING RODS 

FOR a rod consisting of two pieces of 
equal length, it is well to begin with a 
butt three feet long and ^-inch square, 
and two tips, each three feet by ^-inch. If 
the taper is to be the same as in the rod of 
the first class, the only extras will be a 17-64- 
inch ferrule with two closed-end centers, one 
for each tip. The tips will taper from 17-64 
to 7-64 inch. 

Naturally the beginner would make the butt 
first, whereas I advise him to make the tips 
first, for this reason : The offset and tube tops 
are not all of the same length, and if it is de- 
sired to make all pieces exactly the same 
length, the tips should be finished first. This 
applies especially to three-piece rods, in mak- 
ing which it is difficult for the beginner to 
figure correctly on the separate parts; for the 
length of the tip is added to when the top is 
put on, and each of the ferrules adds some- 
thing, so that it is hard to get all pieces of the 



102 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

same length without wasting time trying and 
cutting until all are correct. 

I give exact lengths for each piece, but if it 
is desired to make the rod longer or shorter 
than five and one-half feet, it must be remem- 
bered that the trimmed tip shown in Fig. 38 
is slightly more than one-half the total length 
of the rod, for the reason that the ferrule on 
the butt adds 134 inches to the actual length 
of the wood; hence the wood in the butt must 
be slightly shorter than the wood in the tips, 
in order that all parts will be the same length 
when completed. 

Extreme care must be exercised in fitting the 
centers on the tips, as the least uneven place 
will force the center out of true alignment, and 
this applies to the ferrule, too. It is also easy 
to break a tip in sandpapering. When the 
tips are finished (see Fig. 37) they will be 33 
inches in length and 33 y+ when fitted with 
centers and tops, as shown in Fig. 38. When 
polished for the last time, they should be 
rubbed with varnish and suspended. 

One of the common bevel-gear drill stocks, 
with a chuck large enough to take a *4- mcn 
drill, can be made to serve you in a way its 
manufacturers probably never thought of. 
This tool is made with a revolving wheel and 



TWO-PIECE RODS 103 



Fig. 36. — Tip Planed to Octagon Section. 



c 



Fig. 37. — Tip Ready for Mounting 

■mil > 

Fig. 38.— Tip Fitted with Center and Top 

a . . ' . '" . '_ . ■ ^— » 

Fig. 39. — Butt Joint Finished and Ready for Handgrasp 
and Ferrule. 

handle on one side, for the right hand, and 
a stationary knob on the other, for steadying 
with the left hand. Remove this knob and 
fasten its spindle in the vise, wheel and handle 
on top. The chuck will take one of your tips, 
but do not close it too tightly. Turn the wheel 
with your left hand and polish your tips with 
a bit of sandpaper held in the right hand, 
moving forward and back very rapidly, to pre- 
vent circular scratches. If the tip is springy, 
be very careful as you approach its small end, 
for with this makeshift lathe you may snap 
off the end if you happen to let the sandpaper 
slip and catch it. 

By fitting a wood plug into the ferrule and 
securing the other end of the plug in the chuck, 
you can polish the butt or joint of your rod, 



104 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

but it is advisable to have someone else turn 
the wheel while you support the rod with one 
hand and polish with the other. This of 
course applies to tips, too. 

L^-— ^ .a g ff^ I T" A 

E I 11 1 I I l»4l i i i , ^m . tj 

Split Bamboo Tournament Rod with Cylindrical Cork 
Handgrasp. 



o^^^es 



Z-A 



Bethabara Casting Rod. 



Jucara Prieto Casting Rod with Double Cord-wound 
Handgrasp. 

Figure 40. 

The butt of your rod will be 32^ inches 
long when ready for ferrule and handgrasps 
(see Fig. 39). It will taper from 15-32 at 
the forward end of grasp to 19-64 at the fer- 
rule, it being remembered that the cap or 
shoulder on this ferrule js 1-32 of an inch 
larger than the cap on its center. 

At first the tip may seem too heavy, but it 
must be remembered that it should be heavier 
in a wood rod than in one of split bamboo, 
and that whereas many split bamboo tourna- 
ment rods are made with very little resiliency 



TWO-PIECE RODS 105 

in the butt, the wood rod, when the tip is 
placed on the floor and pressure applied, should 
show a nice arch for more than half its length 
from the tip, while there should be quite a bit 
of spring below the ferrule. There is no fixed 
rule for determining how much to take off the 
butt. Testing it repeatedly will be the best 
plan, but if it still seems too stiff, the diameter 
of the butt must be reduced with the greatest 
care, else you may go too far. Placing the 
ferrule in the center of the rod requires more 
care in trying it out than if there are two fer- 
rules — as in a three-piece rod — but practice 
with reel and weight will satisfy you. 

When the taper of the butt joint suits you, 
the grasp is put on as described in Chapter 
VI., the wood is finished as described for the 
tips, rubbed with varnish, and it is then ready 
for winding. It is made without pins through 
ferrule and centers, as will be noted. Pins keep 
the ferrules in place, but unless put in by an 
expert they may weaken the wood where it 
needs strength, and good cement may be de- 
pended on. At most a ferrule may work loose, 
but it is merely necessary to warm it tempo- 
rarily to secure it until it can be removed and 
put back with new winding or a little more 
cement. 



106 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

All of the best rods are equipped with 
pinned ferrules, and they seldom work loose. 
But these are fitted by expert workmen, aided 
by the finest machine tools. As I am writing 
from the beginner's point of view, I advise 
cement only. Should a joint be broken while 
you are far from home, there is no trouble- 
some pin to pick out. Instead, you warm the 
ferrule, push out the broken wood, and set the 
ferrule on a freshly fitted part. 



CHAPTER IX 

THREE-PIECE RODS 

THE most common type known is the 
three-piece rod, the separate parts of 
which are of equal length. The angler 
who must go far afield for his fishing demands 
a 'rod that is compact, just as he wants a take- 
down gun in the autumn. The difficulty expe- 
rienced in traveling in trains and street cars, 
as well as in walking through crowded streets, 
argues against unwieldy -parcels, and the fly or 
bait rod must be made in lengths convenient 
to carry. The rodmaker might argue until 
doomsday in favor of long-joint rods, claim- 
ing better action, greater strength, etc., but he 
could never persuade his patrons that these 
qualities outweigh the greater handiness of 
short joints. 

This being true, the rodmakers place the 
joints where they will affect the action of the 
rods the least; namely, in two places, making 
even an n-foot fly-rod conveniently portable 
when taken down. They carry this practice to 
107 



108 AMATEUR ROD3IAKIXG 

the longest salmon rods, which are nearly al- 
ways made in three joints, proving that no 
maker likes to place ferrules in the middle of 
the rod — which is necessary in making a four- 
joint rod. The principal exceptions are the 
short two-piece salt-water rods, which are 
more or less* stiff throughout their length; and 
the short bait-casting rods. 

In a $y 2 -foot bait-casting rod of the neces- 
sary caliber, two ferrules make the joints very 
short, and the stiff metal is actually about one- 
eighth the total length of the rod. Aside from 
the fact that the ferrules in short three-piece 
rods are placed to better advantage, the rod 
made in two pieces of equal lengths is to be 
recommended. Certainly it is almost as easy 
to make two of this type as one with three 
joints and an extra tip. When the three- 
joint rod is to be made 6 or 6]/ 2 feet long, 
however, its advantages increase with its 
length. 

In a 53^-foot rod made in three pieces of 
equal length, and of the caliber given in Fig. 
29, the ferrules will be 21-64 inch, with one 
center; and 13-64 inch, with two centers, for 
the tips. The tips when completed and fitted 
with tops, will be 22 ^ inches long and will be 
tapered from 13-64 to 7-64. Finish these first. 



THREE-PIECE RODS 109 

It is well to bear in mind that you cannot make 
each of the other two joints one-third of the 
total length of the finished rod, for the reason 
that the tip is to be pushed one inch into the 
ferrule of the middle joint, and this in turn 
1% inches into the ferrule on the butt joint, 
while these two ferrules add to the actual 
length of the two lower parts. 

A more difficult problem in division and 
addition it would be hard to find. The first 
time I tried to make a rod of three pieces of 
equal length I almost gave it up in despair, 
for despite what I thought was exact calcula- 
tion, the separate parts would vary or the total 
would be too great. Finally I drew a pencil 
mark on the floor just 5^ feet long, and sit- 
ting down, puzzled the problem out 'by plac- 
ing the three parts of the rod, with the fer- 
rules beside them, on the line, and measuring 
until the adjustments -were correct. 

The actual length of the middle joint will 
be 2ij4 inches, for the top or female ferrule 
will extend 1 inch beyond the wood, making 
this joint 22^ inches when it is finished. 
Taper the wood from 21-64 to 15-64, it being 
remembered that the cap of the ferrule is 
slightly larger inside than the caps of its cen- 
ters. Cement the ferrule on the small end of 



110 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

the middle joint and the center of the butt fer- 
rule on the other end. 

The wood of the butt joint will be 21^2 
inches long, as the ferrule adds 134 inches^ to 
its total length, 22^4 inches. Taper it from 
15-32 at the pencil mark, indicating the upper 
end of the handgrasp, to n-32, to fit the cap 
of the ferrule, which is 21-64 at the small end. 

You are now ready for the handgrasp, the 
various forms of which are described in pre- 
ceding chapters. Careful testing is necessary 
before this rod can be finished, for different 
pieces of wood vary considerably, and it is sel- 
dom one can make all the tapers just what he 
expects to. The two lower joints may need 
fining down until the action suits you, and in 
some rods I have substituted 19-64 for the 
21-64-inch lower ferrule, making a hollow 
taper from handgrasp forward a few inches, 
then uniform taper to the first ferrule. 

If the rod is to be six feet long, which will 
make it much sweeter for fishing and accuracy 
casting — its three joints considered — the fer- 
rules should be 15-64 and 21-64. One of my 
favorite bethabara rods is 5 feet io^s inches 
long and it is a very pleasant rod to fish with. 
Its ferrules and calibers are the same as those 
given above. 



CHAPTER X 

SALT-WATER RODS 

THE best type of rod for salt-water fish- 
ing is the long tip and separate hand- 
grasp. This applies to all rods used in 
sea fishing, whether for tarpon, tuna, striped 
bass, weakfish, or small fry, the length and 
weight depending on the kind of fish angled 
for. By using the separate handgrasp, the 
joint can be made very strong, and tips of dif- 
ferent caliber or length are available, one 
handgrasp serving for a part of two or more 
rods. 

Two-piece rods, with the parts equal in 
length, come next. Other styles are used occa- 
sionally. 

Bethabara is the favorite wood and split 
bamboo is coming into more general use for 
weakfish rods and even for larger fish, includ- 
ing tuna and tarpon. 

It has long been the practice to equip heavy 
salt-water rods with two sets of guides, so that 
any inclination of the tip toward set can be 
m 



112 AMATEUR SOD3IAKING 

corrected by turning it half-way round and 
using the other guides, etc. There are objec- 
tions to this, due to the possibility of the line 
catching on the lower guides, and among an- 
glers for big sea fish there are many who favor 
one set of guides only. The strain of trolling, 
and of fighting and landing heavy fish on a 
long line will permanently set any tip, but this 
can be corrected now and then so that the 
fault is not important. 

I will give the specifications of three salt- 
water rods I have made at various times, the 
material of all being bethabara, and each being 
a useful type. They are illustrated in Fig. 41. 

Tarpon Rod. — Length, 6 feet 1034 inches; 
tip, 5 feet $%. inches. Handgrasp, 21 inches, 
wound with celluloid and fitted with a rubber 
button. Swell of handgrasp, 1 n-32 inches. 
Reel-seat, 1 1-16 inches in diameter. Taper 
of tip, 29-32 to 5-16 inch, uniform throughout. 
Caliber of agate stirrup-tube top, y% inch. 
First set of trumpet guides, 9 inches from top; 
second set, spaced 14 inches; third set, spaced 
17 inches; set of agate hand guides, 25 inches 
from reel. The weight is about 24 ounces. 

Surf-Casting Rod. — Length, 6 feet II j£ 
inches; tip, 4 feet n>4 inches. Handgrasp, 
2534 inches long, or 22 T < inches to center of 



SALT-WATER RODS 113 

reel. Swell of grasp, i 3-16 inches. Material, 
a greenheart 17-32-inch core, covered with 
solid cork, making a very light as well as 
springy butt whose core is of the same diam- 
eter as the tip, of which it is really a continu- 
ation. Reel-seat, % inch, fitted for a 250-yard 
reel. Tip calibers: ferrule center, 17-32 inch; 
6 inches forward, 17-32; 12 inches, T / 2 ; 18 
inches, 15-32; 24 inches, 7-16; 30 inches, 
13-32 ; 36 inches, }i\ 42 inches, 21-64; 4-8 
inches, 9-32; 54 inches, 17-64; at top, %. inch. 
Top, stirrup-tube, 5-16 caliber; raised agate 
guide, ioy 2 inches from top, with the second 
guide 14 inches below the first and 36 inches 
from the reel. Guide calibers, 5-16 and }i 
inch. 

This rod weighs only 13 ounces. It was 
designed for the regulation 2 ]/ 2 -ounce lead 
weight in long distance tournament casting, but 
will also handle a 3- or 4-ounce sinker nicely, 
this weight being necessary in casting in the 
surf, where the combers will pick up a lighter 
weight and carry it into shoal water. It also 
has tremendous power for its weight, and is 
resilient throughout its entire length, in which 
it differs from rods having Heavy, stiff hand- 
grasps; is a pleasant rod to fish with, and one 
can cast a 2 y 2 -ounce weight 175 to 200 feet 



114 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

with very little effort. The grasp is made in 
the manner illustrated in Fig. 35, but the core 
is largest under the reel, then tapers to about 
Y% inch at the butt, making it in fact a double- 
tapered rod. 

The grasp is so light that tips of small cali- 
ber and length are available, but for all-round 
sea fishing the handgrasp should be made 
about six inches shorter. 

Light Salt-Water Rod. — Length, 6 feet % 
inch; joints, 36^ inches. Weight, 13 ounces. 
Handgrasp, double, cord-wound; length, 21 
inches. Swell of lower grasp, 1% inches; of 
upper grasp, 1 inch. Diameter of reel-seat, 
% inch. Taper, handgrasp to ferrule, uni- 
form, 35-64 to 29-64; ferrule center, 7-16. 
inch. Caliber of tip 6 inches from center, 
13-32; 12 inches, 25-64; 18 inches, n-32; 24 
inches, 21-64; 30 inches, 9-32; at top, 15-64 
inch. Top, stirrup-tube, agate, 5-16; bell 
guide, () l / 2 inches from top; second guide, 5-16, 
agate, spaced 173/2 inches, and 27 inches from 
reel. 

This rod is pleasant to use for medium-sized 
sea fish, and handles the standard 2^2-ounce 
weight nicely. In one of the tournaments of 
the Anglers' Club of New York in Central 
Park five contestants used this rod, the best 
cast with it being 190 feet. 



SALT-WATER RODS 115 



III I I I ■*■ I I I I <■ 



Tarpon Rod. 



^ 



Surf-Casting Rod. 

mv \ u - ^ff^rjl i i i ■ i ■ ■ " " 



Light Salt- Water Rod. 
Figure 41. 



The details of construction for similar light 
weight wood rods, already given, will apply to 
these salt-water rods, save that heavier mate- 
rial will be needed. For my tarpon rod I 
obtained bethabara 1 inch square ; for the surf 
rod, Y\ inch; for butt of two-piece rod, }i 
inch, and for tip, j4 inch. 

In making handgrasps for rods of this class 
I leave the wood core somewhat rough, in 
order that the glue will have better holding 
ground than if the core were polished smooth. 

Merely to give an idea of the expense, in 
time and cash, to the amateur rodmaker, I 
give below the following data relating to these 
three rods. All are bethabara. 

Tarpon Rod. — Cost of material, about 
$7.50; time required, ten hours. 

Surf Rod. — Cost of material, about $6; 
time required, about seven hours. 



116 AMATEUR SODMAKING 

Light Salt-Water Rod. — Material, $4; 
time, nine hours. 

If the surf rod is made of dagama, pur- 
chased in billet form, the cost can be reduced 
somewhat. The time given above refers only 
to finishing and mounting the rod, and does 
not include winding and varnishing. 



CHAPTER XI 

BASS AND TROUT FLY-RODS 

IF the beginner is determined to make an 
all-wood fly-rod before attempting to build 
one of split bamboo, the directions previ- 
ously given for three-joint bait-rods will apply 
here, with the exception that the joints must 
be made somewhat longer, the taper slower, 
and the reel-seat is placed below the hand. 
Straight-grained bethabara makes a nice fly- 
rod of medium weight, and dagama works 
well. 

It is scarcely advisable for the novice to 
begin his rodmaking on a split bamboo trout 
fly-rod of light weight, for the tips run so small 
that one can hardly expect to do creditable 
work on them at first. But bass fly-rods of 
6y 2 or 7 ounces are easier to build, and after 
you have had some experience with butts and 
joints, tip making will not present insurmount- 
able difficulties. 

Below are given the calibers of three typical 
fly-rods that are excellent for fishing. They 
117 



118 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

have seen hard service. All are hexagonal 
bamboo. The handgrasps are solid cork, the 
hand guides agate, the other guides of steel, 
snake-pattern, and the tops loose steel rings: 

Heavy Fly-Rod. — Length, 9 feet 8 inches; 
weight, 7 ounces. Joints, 39^2 inches long. 
Grasp, 9J^ inches long, inclusive of j4 -mcn 
reel-seat. Ferrules, serrated, waterproof, 
21-64 an d 13-64. Calibers: at taper, y 2 inch; 
12 inches from butt, 7-16; 18 inches, 13-32; 
2 feet, 25-64; iy 2 feet, y s ; 3 feet, 23-64; 
3J£, 11-32; 4 feet, 5-16; ^/ 2 feet, 19-64; 5 
feet, 9-32; s J A ^et, 17-64; 6 feet, 34; 6y 2 
feet, 15-64; 7 feet, 3-16; 73^ feet, 11-64; 8 
feet, 9-64; $y> feet, y$; 9 feet, 7-64; at top, 
5-64 inch. 

Medium Weight Fly-Rod. — Length, 93^ 
feet; joints, 38^ inches. Weight, 6 to 63/2 
ounces. Grasp, 9^2 inches; reel-seat, }i inch. 
Ferrules, serrated, waterproof, 19-64 and 
3-16. Calibers: butt joint, at taper, 13-32; 

1 foot from butt, 25-64; Ij4 feet, 23-64; 

2 feet, 11-32; 23/2 feet, 21-64; 3 feet, 19-64. 
Middle joint, 6 inches, 19-64; 1 foot, 9-32; 
i J /> feet, 17-64; 2 feet, 15-64; 2j£ feet, 7-32; 

3 feet, 13-64. Tips, 6 inches, 11-64; 1 foot, 
5-32; ij/ 2 feet, 9-6452 feet, }i;2}i feet, 7-64; 

Trout Fly-Rod. — Length, 9 feet; joints, 



BASS AND TROUT FLY-RODS 119 

36^ inches. Weight, 5^2 ounces with ^4-inch 
metal reel-seat; with reel bands instead, a little 
less than 5 ounces. Grasp, 9 inches long. 
Ferrules, serrated, waterproof, 9-32 and 11-64 
inch. Calibers: butt joint, at taper, 7-16; 1 
foot from butt, 25-64; iy 2 feet, 11-32; 2 feet, 
21-64; 2J^ feet, 5-16; 3 feet, 19-64. Middle 
joint, 6 inches, 9-32; 1 foot, 17-64; \y 2 feet, 
15-64; 2 feet, 7-32; iy 2 feet, 13-64; 3 feet, 
3-16. Tips, 6 inches, 11-64; x f°°t> 5-32 ; 
ij4 feet, y s ; 2 feet, 7-64; 2^ feet, 3-32; 
3 feet, 5-64 inch. 



Split-Bamboo Bass Fly-Rod. 

IHBJriH"-*- 1 ■'■'■'•' h.i. 1 saga 1 1 lAr i 



rafi* 



Split-Bamboo Trout Fly-Rod. 
Figure 42. 

Ordinary sumach, obtainable in any thicket, 
is nicely adapted to use for light handgrasps 
where reel bands are to be used. It is green- 
ish-yellow when varnished, but can be stained 
nicely to resemble cedar or cherry, then var- 
nished. 

Tournament fly-rods are allowed }i of an 
ounce for metal reel-seats; therefore a rod just 



120 AMATEUR BOBMAKING 

under 4J4 ounces will be admitted to the four- 
ounce class, and one just under 5J4 ounces to 
the five-ounce class, if each has a metal reel- 
seat. The length limit is ii l / 2 feet. 

Five-ounce tournament rods are usually 10 
feet long and much stiffer than rods made ex- 
clusively for fishing, but they are pleasant to 
fish with, particularly on windy days, with a 
heavy double tapered line. 

Heavy single-hand tournament rods that are 
admitted to the open-to-all trout fly contests 
are limited only in length, to n l / 2 feet, but 
may be any weight. In the East these seldom 
weigh more than 103^ ounces and are gener- 
ally 1 1 feet long, but in the West 1 1 feet 5 
inches is a favorite length, and some rods 
weigh as much as 13 ounces. These are ex- 
tremely stiff, and they are powerful enough to 
lift 100 or more feet of heavy tapered line out 
of the water. 

The grasps are 12 to 15 inches long, and 
the rods taper from about ]/ 2 inch at the grasp 
to 7-64 at the top, with long and heavy split 
or serrated ferrules. These vary in caliber, but 
are about y& and J4 i ncn in diameter. The 
middle joint is heavy and tapers very little at 
the lower end. 



CHAPTER XII 

SALMON FLY-RODS 

SINCE the earliest days of fly-fishing sal- 
mon fly-rods have been made of solid 
wood, and to-day, although split bamboo 
is largely used for all other fly-rods, there is a 
steady demand for solid wood salmon fly-rods. 
In Great Britain greenheart salmon rods are 
still the favorites with a vast number of the 
anglers, and it is likely wood rods will never 
be entirely replaced by those of split bamboo 
for salmon fishing. 

In America the demand for salmon rods is 
small, for comparatively few of our anglers 
go to the Northern and Northeastern waters 
for these noble fish, and while those who prefer 
split bamboo rods for trout and bass fishing 
often wish to use rods of the same material 
when they fish for salmon, a great many favor 
wood rods. 

For tournament casting I prefer split bam- 
boo to wood in all rods, but split bamboo sal- 
mon rods are very expensive and a well-made 

121 



122 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

wood rod will give its owner a great deal of 
satisfaction. Furthermore, it is not so difficult 
to make as some of the thinner fly-rods. 

In a rod whose length ranges from thirteen 
to eighteen feet and with a weight of 23 to 
32 ounces or more, stiffness in the rod requires 
muscle in the angler. To wield a stiff bamboo 
rod of 25 ounces and a long and heavy line 
during several hours' fishing taxes the angler's 
strength more than does a whippy rod of 
greater weight, and this is one reason why 
wood rods are peculiarly adapted to salmon 
fishing. A nicely proportioned wood rod has 
good action and with it a fly can be cast and 
fished with less exertion at ordinary salmon 
fly-casting distances than is possible with the 
stiffer bamboo rod, hence anglers of small 
stature and average strength are likely to favor 
wood rods. 

Again, the split bamboo rod does not begin 
to work until a certain length of line is ex- 
tended; that is, it requires the pull of a long 
line to make the rod spring properly. With- 
out this spring the fly cannot be cast neatly at 
any distance. Have you ever tried to cast a 
fly with a stiff bait rod? You have sufficient 
power in the rod, but lack the weight of line 
that is necessary to get the snap that sends the 
line in a rolling loop through the air. Try as 



SALMON FLY-RODS 123 

hard as you like, you will never be able to cast 
a fly ten yards. The wood salmon rod is pro- 
portionately as flexible as the whippiest trout 
rod, therefore but little muscle and weight of 
line are necessary to develop its spring, and its 
user can cast lightly and sweetly at fifty or one 
hundred feet — for the rod does most of the 
work. 

In salmon fishing rods, great power is not of 
vital importance, for any one of these rods is 
capable of handling ioo to 125 feet of double 
tapered line, and that means that they can be 
depended on to kill the biggest salmon. It is 
essential to kill these royal fish on the rod and 
to gaff them only after their fight is ended; 
therefore, a nicely balanced wood rod will an- 
swer, it being conceded that bamboo will be 
less likely to give way to the accidents that 
may occur on any game fish stream. 

Salmon fly-casting has grown more and more 
popular among the clubs that practice fly-cast- 
ing as a pastime, and men who have never seen 
a salmon river and probably never will see one 
have become adepts with the salmon rod and 
its heavy line and leader. It appeals to many 
who do not care for the contests with four and 
five-ounce trout fly-rods, and it is an exceed- 
ingly fascinating game. 

For a long time the maximum limit to the 



124 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

length of tournament salmon rods was placed 
at eighteen feet, but in 1907 this was changed 
by the National Association and the limit 
placed at fifteen feet. This is in line with the 
desire to use lighter tackle, and it also enables 
salmon fishermen to use their thirteen, four- 
teen, and fifteen-foot fishing rods in tourna- 
ments, placing them on fairly even terms with 
contestants whose rods are made for distance 
casting only, but which would be rather stiff 
for all-day angling. 

Of all the fly-rods, the salmon rod is the 
easiest one for the novice to build from solid 
wood, and there is no reason why he should 
not get excellent results from such a rod con- 
structed for use exclusively in what is termed 
tournament casting; in other words, all casting 
for practice or for record. 

I give the specifications of three salmon rods 
that I have used with satisfaction in tourna- 
ment casting, and these are illustrated in Fig- 
ure 43. 

Split Bamboo Salmon Rod. — Length, 14 
feet 113^ inches; joints, 5 feet 1 inch; weight, 
26 ounces; material, six-strip Calcutta bamboo. 
Handgrasp, double, 24 inches long, solid cork 
fitted to bamboo direct. Length of lower 
grasp, 7 inches; diameter, 1 3-16; buttcap, 



SALMON FLY-RODS 125 

I 1-16; reel-seat, 6 inches long, 1 inch in diam- 
eter; upper grasp, 11 inches long, diameter 

I 3-16. Calibers: 24 inches from butt, at 
taper, 41-64; 30 inches, % ; 3 feet, 39-64; 3^ 
feet, 19-32; 4 feet, 37-64; 4^ feet, 35-64. 
Ferrule, capped, welted, and serrated, \y 2 
inches long. Middle joint: Ferrule, 2H 
inches long, 17-32; 6 inches from bottom, 
17-32; 12 inches, y 2 ; 18 inches, y 2 ; 2 feet, 
31-64; iy 2 feet, 15-32; 3 feet, 7-16; 3^ feet, 
13-32; 4 feet, %\ 4^ feet, 11-32; ferrule, 
capped, welted, and serrated, 2H inches long. 
Tips: Ferrule, 2^ inches long, 21-64; 6 
inches, 5-16; 12 inches, 19-64; 18 inches, 
9-32; 2 feet, 17-64; 2y 2 feet, 15-64; 3 feet, 
13-64; 3/^ feet, 3-!6; 4 f eet, 11-64; 4>4 feet, 
9-64; at top, }i inch. Tops, loose ring, steel. 
Guides: First, agate, 5-16; balance hard steel 
snake guides, fifteen in all. 

Bethabara Salmon Rod. — Length, 14 feet 

II inches; joints, 5 feet; weight, 28 ounces. 
Handgrasp, double, 24 inches long, other di- 
mensions same as split bamboo. Calibers: 24 
inches from butt, J4 inch; 30 inches, 45-64; 
3 feet, 43-64; 3K f eet, %\ 4 feet, 19-32; 
4^2 feet, 9-16; ferrule, capped and welted, 3 J4 
inches long. Middle joint: Ferrule, 2% 
inches long, 17-32 diameter; 6 inches, 17-32; 



126 AMATEUR RODMAKING 



Fifteen-foot Split Bamboo Salmon Rod. 
— a— ^a— a . . #■ , 



Fourteen-foot Bethabara Salmon Rod. 
Figure 43- 

i foot, 33-64; 18 inches, 33-64; 2 feet, y ; 2]/ 2 
feet, 31-64; 3 feet, 15-32; 3^ feet, 27-64; 4 
feet, 13-32; A.y 2 feet, 25-64; ferrule, capped 
and welted, 354 inches long. Tips: Ferrule, 

2 inches long, 23-64; 6 inches, n-32; 1 foot, 
21-64; 18 inches, 5-16; 2 feet, 19-64; iy 2 feet, 
9-32; 3 feet, y; 3^ feet, 7-32; 4 feet, 3-16; 
4J4 feet, 5-32; at top, J^ inch. Top, loose 
steel ring. Guides, same as on bamboo rod. 

Bethabara Salmon Rod. — Length, 14 feet; 
joints, 5734 inches; weight, 25^ ounces. 
Handgrasp, same as on other rods. Calibers: 
24 inches from butt, 51-64; iy 2 feet, 43-64; 

3 feet, 41-64; 3 J /2 feet, 39-64; 4 feet, 37-64; 
4 J/2 feet, 37-64; ferrule, capped and welted, 
3J4 inches long. Middle joint: Ferrule, 
17-32; 6 inches, 17-32; 1 foot, 33-64; 18 



SALMON FLY-RODS 127 

inches, J / 2 \ 2 feet, 31-64; iy 2 feet, 15-32; 3 
feet, 7-16; y/ 2 feet, 13-32; 4 feet, 23-64; 4^ 
feet, 11-32; ferrule, capped and welted, 3% 
inches long. Tips: Ferrule, 21-64; 6 inches, 
5-16; 1 foot, 9-32; 18 inches, 17-64; 2 feet, 
J4; iy 2 feet, 15-64; 3 feet, 7-32; y/ 2 feet, 
13-64; 4 feet, 11-64; A 1 /* f eet > 9-64; at top, 
J^ inch. Top, loose steel ring. Guides, one 
agate, balance steel snake ring, fourteen in all. 



CHAPTER XIII 

ON THE HISTORY OF THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 

WHEN and where were split bamboo 
fishing rods first made, and by 
whom? This is a question that has 
been discussed in the press of Great Britain 
and America for very many years. It is gen- 
erally conceded that the idea originated in Eng- 
land, but the three-section rod was the only 
development of the idea there; while on this 
side of the Atlantic — if all available testimony 
is trustworthy — the four-section rod came first, 
and the hexagonal method followed very 
shortly, to stay. 

Whether the four-strip rod as made in Eng- 
land was copied from those made here is un- 
known, or so it seems, but the evidence at 
hand points to that conclusion, since the four- 
strip rod was commented on in the English 
press of the early 7o's as something new, 
whereas four-strip rods had been commonly 
made here for a number of years previously. 
The first mention of glued-up bamboo rods 
128 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROB 129 

that I have been able to find bears the date 
1805, as appears farther on. One Clark of 
London was said to be " the unrivalled maker " 
of such rods, and from this it is natural to 
infer that other rodmakers were at that time 
working bamboo into rods. 

The first split bamboo rod to be made in 
America was produced by Samuel Phillipe, of 
Easton, Pa., in 1845, according to Dr. James 
A. Henshall, who has devoted a great deal of 
time to obtaining the facts. This was a four- 
strip rod. 

The first six-strip split bamboo rod to be 
made anywhere was the invention of Hiram 
L. Leonard, then of Bangor, Maine. The late 
William Mitchell — himself a veteran rod- 
maker — said that the Leonard rods were put 
on the market about 1870. No improvement 
worthy of the name has ever been invented to 
replace six strips for rod joints, and to-day 
they are conceded to be the last word in rod- 
making. Seven-strip rods were at one time 
made, notably by Edward Vom Hofe, of New 
York, now deceased; and eight-strip rods have 
been and are still occasionally made by a num- 
ber of firms; while rods in which the butts are 
very heavy — as salmon and salt-water rods — 
are commonly made of six pairs of strips. In 



130 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

these, two strips of rectangular section are first 
glued together, to attain the necessary thick- 
ness, then planed to triangular section. The 
method is commonly called " double enamel." 

A few British makers claim to have im- 
proved the six-strip rod by adding steel cen- 
ters; by winding with steel ribbons; and by 
making them of treble enamel. But all these 
things may better be called selling points than 
improvements. 

In the old-time angling books some writers 
say the enamel of the cane should be placed 
on the outside of the joint. That is readily 
understood, and experience has shown that it 
is the only reliable method. Other writers 
mention the placing of the enamel on the inside 
of the joint. At this day such workmanship 
would, if advocated, be ridiculed. The first 
reason for placing the enamel outside is to re- 
tain as much as possible of the natural strength 
of the cane; the enamel surface, being uneven, 
may be more easily offset by matching if placed 
outside; and finally, this enamel surface, even 
when planed down slightly, offers poor hold- 
ing ground for glue. 

In the accompanying sketch Fig. 44 shows a 
section ready for the glueing of the three strips 
with the enamel outside. In Fig. 45 one of the 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO BOB 131 




Figure 44. Figure 45. 

two methods that were possible in placing the 
enamel inside is shown, the heavy lines indi- 
cating the enamel side of each strip. The re- 
maining method may have been that illustrated 
in Fig. 46, but it is hardly to be believed that 




Figure 46. 

expert workmen would have cut away all of 
the enamel in making their strips, since they 
must have tested strips for stiffness and recov- 
ering power, both before and after planing. 

There is now, and always has been, no 
doubt, but a step or two from bow and arrow 
making to fishing rod building. When good 



132 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

yew became so scarce in Europe that bow- 
makers were compelled to turn to other ma- 
terials, they began to glue two varieties of 
tough wood together, and such bows were 
called backed bows, to distinguish them from 
self bows, or those made of one piece of wood. 
It is said that the old-time rodmakers em- 
ployed bowmakers to help them, and as these 
men were probably experts in making backed 
bows, it is likely that they suggested splitting 
canes to obtain excellent material for rods or 
parts of rods. 

If Phillipe, the gunsmith of Easton, Pa., 
was the originator of split bamboo rods in 
America, as it is claimed he was, it is just pos- 
sible that he, too, obtained the idea from one 
of the old bows; for at that time it is likely 
that imported bows were more common in 
America than imported fishing rods. 

It has also been suggested that Phillipe 
might have seen an English rod made of three 
strips of cane glued up, and at once concluded 
that a better rod could be made of four than 
three strips. But it is not likely that he was 
a copyist, since Dr. Henshall mentions several 
articles that he made, as well as rods. Living, 
as he did, far in the interior, it is more reason- 
able to believe that he worked out the four- 
strip idea without assistance of any sort. 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 133 

The extracts and comments which follow 
will, I believe, be read with more than passing 
interest by the young anglers, few of whom 
have ever seen a four-strip split bamboo — or, 
as our British cousins call it, split cane rod. 
And yet, it was only ten years ago that I 
watched with interest the making of four-strip 
rods by one of the old-time gunsmith-rod- 
makers of the Middle West. 

Through the kindness of Hugh T. Shering- 
ham, angling editor of the Field of London, I 
have succeeded in obtaining the following 
from " Fishes and Fishing," by W. Wright 
(London, Thomas Cantley, 1858) : 

" In 1805 I became acquainted with a Welsh 
gentleman, Mr. L., whose description of fly 
fishing for trout and sewin fired my imagina- 
tion, and I determined to become a fly fisher. 
... At my request he (Mr. H., not Mr. L.) 
introduced me to an old Welshman named 
David Williams, whom Mr. H. had drilled 
into making rods according to his plan; this 
Williams was acquainted with Clark,* the un- 
rivalled maker of glued-up bamboo fly rods, 

*Mr. Sachs said of Clark: "I have endeavored to find 
out who this Clark could have been, but even the assist- 
ance of one in the forefront of the trade, who can com- 
mand tradition going back eighty years, could produce 
nothing definite. The only Clark was one living at n 
St. Johns Lane, Clerkenwell, but tradition does not re- 
cord him as a maker of built-up rods." 



134 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

the most excellent of all rods. I obtained 
about ten sticks of the proper cane, and Wil- 
liams induced Clark to make one for me, and 
another for my friend, Mr. L." 

Mr. Sheringham adds that in the Field of 
March 26, 1904, E. T. Sachs "speaks with 
certainty of one Ustonson of Bell-yard as a 
maker of such rods (built up), though not of 
cane, and there was another maker living in a 
West of England town. Ten years or so since 

I was shown a built-up rod by the late Mr. 
Chevalier, formerly in Bell-yard, which had 
been made some sixty years previously. 

" When the first six-strip rod was made I 
do not know," Mr. Sheringham concludes, 

II but I am informed by an old established 
tackle maker that Eaton & Deller of London, 
E. C, were the beginners on this side, and 
that they got the idea from your side." 

While Mr. Sheringham thinks that Eaton & 
Deller were the first to copy the American 
hexagonal rods, R. B. Marston thinks differ- 
ently. In a personal letter to me he said: 

" In the 7o's, I believe, J. D. Dougall, a 
gunmaker of Glasgow, was the first to import 
these rods [hexagonal], and then Bowness of 
London. The hexagonal American split canes 
were a novelty and very expensive; but our 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 135 

makers soon began to make them, and now I 
doubt if you could tell whether one was made 
in England or America — that is, the best 
makes." 

With this opinion I cannot agree, although 
I will admit that the best makes of British rods 
exhibited in this country during the last three 
years have been far superior to the same sort 
sent over ten or more years ago. In some of 
their so-called best rods the joining of the 
strips is very bad, while for some reason best 
known to themselves, British makers stub- 
bornly cling to those abominable contrivances, 
the lock-fast ferrules, and refuse to believe — 
what was common knowledge on this side a 
generation ago — that there is no other ferrule 
worth while than our common German silver 
suction ferrule. Using brass as they do, it is 
not to be wondered at that they cannot make 
these " stay put," and must perforce resort to 
locking devices. 

Our makers stand on the platform that six 
strips of cane cannot be improved in any way 
known to science or art. On the other hand, 
we find British makers resorting to all sorts of 
devices that are alleged to be intended to stiffen 
or strengthen their rods. Some put steel cen- 
ters in the joints ; others wind the joints spirally 



136 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

with narrow steel ribbons — both methods 
clumsy attempts to bolster up an article that 
evidently needs heroic treatment. 

There are firms in the United States that 
make up butts and joints and strips of split 
bamboo and ship them in very large lots to 
Great Britain. These are made by machine 
from all grades of cane. The query naturally 
suggests itself, Do these parts appear later in 
the British market as British rods? 

At another time Mr. Marston said: 

11 I think the first Englishman to make the 
modern hexagonal American split cane rod 
known in England was a man I knew — a good 
all-round sportsman, who hunted, shot, and 
fished in all parts of the world, well known in 
sporting literature as ' Ubique,' which well de- 
scribed his roving spirit; his real name was 
Parker Gilmore. ... In 1869, in his inter- 
esting book, * Gun, Rod, and Saddle,' he had 
referred to American fly rods. On page 251 
he says: 

" ' Next to the cedar rod, but one that will 
stand any amount of fair work, is the split 
bamboo; this, I think, can be procured even 
lighter than the former. There is a firm, the 
Messrs. Clark [evidently Clerk] of Maiden 
I.anc, New York, who make this a speciality 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROB 137 

I never had the good fortune to use one, but 
have handled them often and listened to the 
raptures of experts on their merits; on their 
good qualities I believe I can say nothing that 
they do not deserve, but their price is neces- 
sarily high, from the care with which the cane 
has to be selected and put together.' " 

The late William Mitchell of New York 
City said that the first split bamboo rod that 
he ever saw or heard of was made by William 
Blacker of London, and to order, for James 
Stevens, of Hoboken, N. J. Mr. Mitchell re- 
paired this rod in 1852, and made a rod for 
its owner in the previous year, keeping a rec- 
ord of both dates. In the American Angler 
of May 19, 1883, Mr. Mitchell gives these 
additional data on the subject: 

" About^ 1 860 E. A. Green of Newark, N. J., 
made the first complete split bamboo rod. This 
date cannot be far astray, for Mr. Green made 
— that is, glued up — for the trade a few; and 
I find my record, made at the time, to be Sept. 
16, 1863. These rods were made in four sec- 
tions. . . . In 1863 or 1864 Mr. Murphy, 
an acquaintance of Mr. Green, commenced to 
manufacture split bamboo rods for the trade. 
These were in four sections. 

" The first rods constructed in six sections 



138 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

that were put into the market were made by 
H. L. Leonard of Bangor, Maine. This was 
about 1870, and Dr. A. H. Fowler soon fol- 
lowed. Mr. Murphy, however, claims to have 
made one some time before. 

" The first split baYnboo rod that I made 
myself was in June, 1869. It was put together 
in four sections; made, not of Calcutta bam- 
boo, but of Chinese, which is much harder, 
homogeneous, and more difficult to obtain 
than the former." 

As Mr. Mitchell was, in his time, one of 
the really great rodmakers, it is of more than 
passing interest to give his opinion as to the 
value of the enamel on Calcutta bamboo. Re- 
ferring to the burning of the culms, he says 
that, as you cannot retain all the enamel on 
the rod, it is just as strong if all the enamel 
is taken off; in fact, the enamel or silex on the 
outside of the bamboo only stiffens but does 
not strengthen it. 

While all the available testimony seems to 
show that three-strip cane rods were made 
first in England, the following paragraph is 
of particular interest, as it leads us to believe 
that four-strip rods were new in England in 
the early seventies. It was printed in the Lon- 
don Field on May 3, 1873 : 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROB 139 

" We have been requested by Mr. Farlow 
to inspect and test one of his new quadrangular 
glued-up bamboo rods. Those rods are made 
of four splints of bamboo, cut into quarters 
and laid together very neatly, stuck with some 
strong cement, and further secured by being 
tied with a half-dozen turns of silk every two 
inches; thus the outside of the rod is one hard 
surface of the tough, pliant skin of the bam- 
boo, the softer and more pithy part being to- 
wards the middle. 

"The idea of so constructing rods is not 
new, but formerly they were made in triangu- 
lar splints instead of quadrangular; whether it 
was from this circumstance or from the work- 
manship or the cement being less perfect we 
cannot determine, but the old rods, though 
they possessed great power over a fish, yet cer- 
tainly had less spring and less power of re- 
covery, and after a good pulling and straining 
did not go back to the straight line so well as 
these do, and consequently did not cast as good 
a line. With one of these little rods, which is 
light enough for a lady to use comfortably, we 
cast twenty yards of line with ease at the first 
essay, with a nasty cross wind blowing; and 
that is enough for any single-handed rod to 
accomplish." 



140 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

It was Dr. James A. Henshall of the United 
States Fisheries Bureau who said (in his 
" Book of the Black Bass") that "although 
the manufacture — as it is at present — is of 
American invention, the idea, or the principle, 
is of English origin." 

In September, 19 12, Dr. Henshall wrote as 
follows in the Fishing Gazette : 

11 In the first edition of the ' Book of the 
Black Bass' (1881) . . . the date of 
Phillipe's first rods was given as 1848, which 
date was doubted by W. Mitchell, who be- 
lieved 4 it should be 1866, on the authority of 
Dr. Wilkinson's salmon article in Scribner's 
Magazine.* But this assumption was not 
true, as Dr. Wilkinson afterward wrote me as 
follows: * You are certainly right on the split 
bamboo question. Mitchell gives the date of 
Murphy's rods as 1863, an d Murphy concedes 
priority to Phillipe, and the latter's date is 
1846. At the time of writing I could not fix 
Murphy's exact date. I am now clearly of the 
opinion that Phillipe's son carelessly wrote 
1866 in place of 1846, and, in fact, I remem- 
ber perfectly well that his figures were pretty 
difficult to decipher.' 

* Dr. Wilkinson said in Scribner's Magasine (1876) 
that in [866 a gunsmith of Easton, named Phillips, made 
a split cane rod in three sections. 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 141 

" In the revised and extended edition of the 
* Book of the Black Bass' (1904), there is 
much additional information on the subject, 
and the date of Phillipe's first rods is estab- 
lished as 1845 on tne testimony of contempo- 
raneous fellow-townsmen, friends, and fishing 
companions. From the evidence now in my 
possession, Phillipe was undoubtedly, indubi- 
tably, and manifestly the first to make a four- 
strip or six-strip split bamboo rod. Some of 
his earliest rods were made with an ash butt 
and the middle and top piece of four-strip split 
bamboo, one of which is now in my possession, 
and was made some seventy years ago. It is 
11 feet 4 inches in length, and weighs scant 8 
ounces. It is well balanced and as perfect in 
action as any modern rod. 

"The rods shown at the 1851 Fisheries 
Exhibition by English rodmakers were all 
three-strip split cane rods, as was also the rod 
mentioned by Mitchell as made for Mr. James 
Stevens by Blacker of London in 1852. The 
late Prof. Alfred M. Mayer of the Stevens 
Institute of Technology, and editor of the 
Century Company's l Sport With Rod and 
Gun,' says of this rod: l This rod is of three 
sections, with the enamel on the outside, and 
was made in 1852, while Mr. Stevens was in 



142 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

London. This date has been accurately de- 
termined for me by his son, Mr. Frank 
Stevens/ 

"At the Chicago World's Fair, in 1893, I 
had on exhibition in my department a number 
of Phillipe's rods of four strips and six strips 
of split bamboo, in addition to the one with 
the ash butt, just mentioned. 

11 Phillipe's son, Solon C. Phillipe, informed 
me that his father made four-strip rods as 
early as 1845, an d that his books show that 
the first rod made for sale was in 1848 and 
was a four-strip rod in three pieces, all, includ- 
ing the butt, of split bamboo. He was also a 
gunsmith and a skilled workmen in wood and 
metal, and at one time received a silver medal 
at the Franklin Institute Fair, Philadelphia, 
for a violin, and also made the first 'Kinney* 
fishhook from a pattern furnished by Phineus 
Kinney of Easton, Pa. 

" Archery bows and rod tops, and probably 
entire rods, were made of hickory or other 
hard woods in England long before Phillipe 
made his first split bamboo rod; but it is not 
at all likely that he knew or even heard of 
such rods, living as he did in a small interior 
town in Pennsylvania. He at first made rods 
only for his own use or for friends, several 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 148 

years before he made them for Andrew Clerk 
& Co." 

An excellent description of the method of 
making split bamboo rods is found in the first 
edition of Edward Fitzgibbon's " Handbook 
for Angling," London, 1847. As t0 tne con " 
struction of a salmon rod, he says he obtained 
the following from Mr. Little, of 15 Fetter 
Lane, rodmaker to His Royal Highness, 
Prince Albert: 

" They [the top and middle joints] are to 
be made from the stoutest pieces of bamboo 
cane, called ' jungle ' and brought from India. 
The pieces should be large and straight, so 
that you can rend them well through knots and 
all. Each joint should consist of three rent 
pieces, split like the foot of a portable garden 
chair, and afterward glued together, not with 
knot opposite to knot, or imperfect grain oppo- 
site to imperfect grain, but the best part oppo- 
site to that which may be knotty or imperfect, 
so as to equalize defectiveness and goodness. 
The natural badness of the cane you counter- 
act by art, and none save a clever workman 
can do it. 

" The butt of a salmon rod should be made 
of plank ash or ground ash, though many good 
judges prefer willow or red deal, as being 



144 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

much lighter, and where lightness is required 
the whole rod may be made with cane. The 
few makers that have as yet attempted solid 
cane or glued-up rods, have generally placed 
the bark or hardest part of the cane inside in 
glueing, and then reduced the joints down on 
the outside to the usual tapering shape. Give 
me, however, the workman who glues and 
splices with the bark outside, and then gives his 
rod a true and correct action, allowing the 
three different barks to be seen visibly on the 
outside after he has rounded the whole. If 
the pieces are skilfully glued together they will 
require no reduction except at the corners, to 
bring the rod from the three square to the 
round shape. I am prepared to prove that 
there are no more than three men in London 
capable of making, perfectly, rods of solid 
cane, rent, glued, and then correcdy finished 
with the bark lying on the outside. 

11 In my opinion rods made entirely of lance- 
wood," Mr. Fitzgibbon says, " are the worst; 
and those made entirely of rent and glued 
jungle cane are the best. They must be most 
carefully fashioned, and no maker can turn 
them out without charging a high price. I am 
also of the opinion that they will last longer 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 145 

than any other sort of rod, and are far less 
liable to warping. I have a high opinion of 
their elasticity, and Mr. Bowness, fishing tackle 
maker of 12 Bellyard, Temple Bar, showed 
me once a trout fly rod made in this, my fa- 
vorite way, that had been for many years in 
use and was still straight as a wand. I never 
saw a better single-handed rod." 

Fitzgibbon underwent a change of heart 
within a year, however, for in the 1848 edition 
of his book he says: 

" I have changed my opinion with respect to 
rods made entirely of rent cane, or any other 
wood rent. Their defects will always more 
than counterbalance their merits." 

William Blacker said, in his " Fly Making 
and Angling," London, 1855, page 82: 

" The rent and glued-up bamboo cane rods, 
which I turn out to the greatest perfection, are 
very valuable, as they are very light and power- 
ful, and throw the line with great facility." 

In the edition of Walton's " Compleat An- 
gler," edited by Edward Jesse and published 
in London in 1856 by Henry G. Boehn, the 
following paragraph appears: 

11 The split or glued-up rod is difficult to 
make well, and expensive. It is made of three 



146 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

pieces of split cane, which some say should 
have the bark inside, some outside, nicely- 
rounded." 

In " The Practical Angler," third edition, 
Edinburgh, 1857, W. C. Stewart says: 

" The strength of bamboo lies in the skin, 
and in order to turn this to best account, rod- 
makers lay two or three strips together so as 
to form a complete skin all around. Rods are 
sometimes made entirely of bamboo, but they 
possess no advantage over those in common 
use to compensate for the additional expense, 
a twelve-foot rod of this material costing £3 
to £4-" 

Le Pecheur, the French angling journal, 
says: 

" Thomas Aldred of London claimed, and 
no one has disputed his claim, to have the 
honor of inventing the split cane rod in three 
sections or segments glued together. As re- 
gards the date when the first rod was made 
we are ignorant* It must have been before 

* Commenting on this statement, Editor Marston of the 
Fishing Gazette says of split cane rods: "They were 
made and exhibited at the first great International Fish- 
eries Exhibition — that of 1851. They were exhibited by 
Aldred of Oxford Street, and thirty years ago and more 
I used to know a very clever little old rodmaker. Irvine 
by name, who lived in a court off the Pentonville road 
near the Angel, Islington, . . . who told us that he 
had made the salmon and trout split cane fly-rods for 

Aldred for the 1851 Exhibition and 1« -ni-r before. . . . 
Irvine was prond of saying that he had made the split 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO ROD 147 

the 1855 Exhibition. There were three fish- 
ing tackle exhibitors at the Exhibition, namely, 
Ainger and Aldred, J. Bernard, and J. K. 
Farlow. The canes were all split in three 
sections longitudinally, the whole length of the 
joint, and not made up of different pieces in 
length equal to the distance between the knots. 
This same rod was exhibited by Ainger and 
Aldred in New York in 1853." 

While he Pecheur's article is interesting, the 
paragraph quoted did not originate with it, but 
was taken bodily from an article printed in the 
American Angler in 1883. 

W. D. Coggeshall of the London Fly Fish- 
ers* Club has found this paragraph in " The 
Young Angler's Companion," published by 
James March of London, without date, but 
which, judging from the costumes of anglers 
in the colored prints, Mr. Coggeshall concludes 
was issued about 18 10 to 1820: 

" The Fly rod is generally made of Hic- 
eory, with a top of several pieces joined to- 

cane salmon: rod on which the Lord Lovat of the middle 
of last century had, so he told him, killed tons of salmon, 
when he had sent it or taken it to him to repair — very 
likely at that time, when he was a young man, he worked 
in Aldred's shop These first English split cane rods cer- 
tainly date back to the forties of last century. They 
were made of three pieces, glued together sometimes with 
the inside outside and sometimes with the outside inside, 
and were made more or less cylindrical, showing no 
external angles as in the hexagonal rod, which latter was 
undoubtedly the improvement of the Americans." 



148 AMATEUR R0D3IAKIXG 

gether, cut out of the solid part of the large 
bamboo; the butt is sometimes made of Ash." 

I quote Mr. Marston again: 

II In Blaine's ' Encyclopedia of Rural Sports/ 
first edition, 1840, in his description of the 
manufacture of fly rods Blaine specially men- 
tions split bamboo. In 1836 Ronalds, in the 
first edition of his incomparable ' Fly Fisher's 
Entomology,' refers to bamboo top joint for 
the fly rod, and I am pretty certain he means 
split bamboo, for in an edition twenty years 
later he has the same expression, and it is 
pretty certain he did not mean the actual 
k whole cane ' natural end of a bamboo. . . . 
The fact is, bows for archers were made of 
several pieces glued together long before rods 
were so made, and it was the custom of fishing 
tackle makers to get the bow and arrow makers 
to help them in their rodmaking. Chetham of 
Smedley, near Manchester, in his capital little 
* Angler's Vade Mecum,' published in 168 1, 
two years before Walton died, describes how 
you are to get the arrow maker to saw up and 
plane up wood for rod making." 

In a letter to me Dr. Edward Breck", author 
of " The Way of the Woods," throws an 
interesting sidelight on split bamboo rods 
when he says: 



THE SPLIT BAMBOO BOD 149 

" While in England I met several old an- 
glers, some of them in the fishing clubs, who 
all asserted that split cane rods had been made 
in England years ago, but had not taken very 
well and been dropped. Afterward I found 
evidence that seemed to confirm this. Hen- 
shall says c English origin ' in his ' Book of the 
Black Bass.' In England I was told that, as 
the old chaps remembered the matter, only the 
middle joint, and sometimes the top, were 
glued from strips, the butt being ash or green- 
heart, but the principle is what counts, of 
course. The sections were three or four only, 
so the old boys said. Of course such faraway 
evidence is merely significant. 

" In some of the older, small shops in Lon- 
don I saw some split cane rods that certainly 
looked as old as the proprietors said they 
were — sixty or seventy years — but this again 
is not strictly evidence. ... At the first 
World's Exposition in London in 1851 three 
firms exhibited three-strip rods, and in 1855 
Blacker was making them commonly, gener- 
erally of three strips." 

In a later communication Dr. Breck wrote: 

"Re Mr. Coggeshall's claim, that the Eng- 
lish were not using split and glued bamboo, 
all one has to do is to quote from Fitzgibbon's 



150 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

1847 book: 'They are to be made from the 
. . bamboo cane called " jungle," and 
brought from India. . . . Each piece should 
consist of three rent pieces. . . . The butt 
of a salmon rod [as distinct from trout rod] 
should be made from plank ash. . . . Give 
me the workman who glues the splices with the 
bark outside.' 

" Now, as to the four- and six-strip rods, I 
can only say that I never heard anybody in 
England mention, nor read about six-strip rods 
in the early days. Of four I think I have, but 
will not be sure. The above extract proves 
that middle sections, and probably the butts of 
trout rods, too, were made of split and glued 
bamboo, not the tops alone, as Mr. Cogges- 
hall claims." 



CHAPTER XIV 

SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING FOR THE BEGINNER 

FEW amateurs attempt to make split 
bamboo rods because they believe the 
work is too complicated. It is at once 
a difficult and yet a very simple proposition, 
as will appear later on. Good material prop- 
erly worked up will give you a first-class rod. 
Patience and perseverance are necessary, for 
the preparatory work requires great care, and 
the least slip of plane or file may ruin an other- 
wise perfect strip. 

You cannot copy a wood rod in bamboo, for 
aside from the fact that they are essentially 
different in every way, you can always measure 
the exact diameter of your wood rods, but 
must measure the " flat " surfaces of the hex- 
agonal bamboo, and these do not give true cali- 
bers. Neither can you hope to determine its 
calibers in the professional way. Long experi- 
ence tells them where a rod needs strength, 
and where it should be tapered rapidly. Even 
in examining one of their rods you will not 
notice the slight variations at certain places, 
151 



152 AMATEUR ROD3IAKING 

which seem trivial to you, but are the result 
of burning much midnight oil and trying, alter- 
ing, testing to attain perfection. 

In making each of the strips you halve the 
actual caliber, but only approximately. Finally, 
you must work very slowly. If you finish six 
perfect strips of whatever length in a day you 
will work faster than you should. Remember 
that you cannot use your split bamboo rod as 
soon as finished, as you can a wood rod. 
Therefore, go slow. 

These remarks are not intended to discour- 
age you, but rather to make you cautious. The 
first time I actually finished six strips of bam- 
boo and began to glue them, my hands trem- 
bled so that the work was very poorly done; 
for I had been told that I could not do it, and 
I half expected them to fly apart despite the 
excess of glue on the strips, on my hands and 
on the floor. As a matter of fact, you will 
be delighted — just as I was — and the result 
will be much more satisfactory than you antici- 
pate. 

If you decide to use Calcutta, select several 
canes i*4 inches or more in diameter at the 
large end, having in mind the fact that the 
burns must not penetrate the enamel. Pound 
each piece smartly on the floor and examine 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 153 

closely for worm holes, and the dust from 
them. Cut the pieces at least a foot longer 
than the finished joint is to be. Split them 
through the eyes where the leaves grew, for 
this part is worthless. An old table knife will 
serve the purpose. This will leave about two- 
thirds of each cane from which to make selec- 
tions. Split up enough to give you six good 
pieces, and plane two sides of each strip, leav- 
ing it nearly square in section. Keep in mind 
the fact that the rind or enamel is not to be 
touched with any tool. In squaring up the 
strips approximate the taper of each one, but 
otherwise do not disturb the pith side. 

Examine each strip carefully for worm 
holes, and if there is the slightest indication 
of these in it, break it up and thus avoid any 
possibility of its being used. Worm-eaten bam- 
boo is the bane of the rodmaker. 

File the knots slightly and lay the strips side 
by side, rind up. Now note the burns again, 
and if any of them char the enamel, reject that 
strip and try another one. Next try the strips 
which contain the leaf eyes, bending them in 
every direction and noting the arch as well as 
their inclination to set. If they will not spring 
back straight, particularly when the rind is on 
the convex side of the curve, they may not be 



151 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

properly seasoned. If faults appear in these 
rejected strips, examine their mates, which you 
propose to use, but do not subject them to 
severe strains. The weeding out of poor ma- 
terial, if it is done at this stage, may save 
time and labor later on. See that the bamboo 
has no greenish hue, indicating that it is not 
seasoned. It should be yellow and split far 
ahead of the knife blade. 

If six strips pass inspection, place them so 
that no two knots will be opposite or even 
near each other, saw off ends and mark all of 
the strips, so that they cannot be reversed by 
accident. Dipping the butt ends in red ink is 
a good plan. Number them from i to 6 on 
the rind side. They should be some three 
inches longer than the finished joint is to be, 
so that you will have leeway in trimming the 
ends. 

Sharpen your plane on an oilstone until its 
edge is very keen. Bamboo requires the ut- 
most care in planing, and a dull tool must not 
be used on it. Set the plane very fine and 
test it on a rejected strip of cane. It is well, 
too, to put an old glove on your left hand 
while you hold the cane in place in planing 
and filing it. A slip may result disastrously, 
for the rough edge of a triangular strip of 
cane will make a jagged wound. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 155 



If your material is Tonkin cane, practically 
the same rules laid down for Calcutta may be 
applied to it, though Tonkin generally seems to 
be free from worm holes. 

You will know how to bevel two sides of each 
one of your strips, to make its section tri- 
angular, with the apex exactly opposite the 
center of the enamel base, and the angle formed 
by the two sides to be 60 degrees, as illustrated 
in Fig. 50, p. 162. 

There are " forty-'leven " ways to do the 
rough beveling, and as many more methods 
employed in finishing the strips. You can be- 
gin to bevel the strips in the grooved edge of a 
tongued-and-grooved board. Another way is 
to nail a strip of wood near the edge of your 
work bench, forming a right-angled rabbet. 
Some rodmakers use a hardwood block with 
rabbets cut in two corners. Still another plan 
is to prepare two blocks like those illustrated 




i r 




Figure 47. 
Blocks for Beveling Rod Sections. 

in Fig. 47, with the angle of the groove 60 
degrees. 



156 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

I like the grooved board referred to in the 
crrapter on " One-Piece Bait-Casting Rods." 
You can procure a piece about four feet long 
and keep it handy. It is serviceable for round- 
ing wood rods, for squaring bamboo strips, 
which lie well in the groove; and for the pre- 
liminary beveling of these strips. This piece 
of board, and the hardwood block illustrated 




Figure 48. 
Grooved Board for Cutting Bevels. 

in Fig. 48, will answer all your requirements 

in split cane work. 

Some amateurs, however, like to use blocks 

similar to those illustrated in Fig. 47. To 

make these, procure two pieces of seasoned 

hardwood. Cherry, birch or maple will be 

better than oak; beech will answer. Make the 

blocks 4 feet long, 2 inches wide, and \ l / 2 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 157 

inches thick. Plane off the corners as indicated 
by the dotted lines in Fig. 47. Plane very 
carefully, a little at a time, then fasten the 
two blocks temporarily in the vise while you 
test the groove with the handy little gauge 




Mil 




Fig. 49. — Steel Angle Gauge. 

illustrated in Fig. 49. This is a center gauge 
costing 25 cents at hardware shops, and it not 
only has three 60-degree notches, but scales 
graduated in I4ths, 20ths, 24ths, and 32ds of 
an inch. As it is tempered steel, you can true 
up the groove with it and with a three-cornered 
file from which the handle has been removed. 
Both the gauge and the file have angles of 60 
degrees. The depth of the groove does not so 
much matter as its shape, for on this depends 
the character of your finished strips. 

When satisfied that one of the grooves is 
correct, fasten the two blocks together with at 
least four screws, reverse and true up the other 
groove. 

We will assume, for the sake of brevity and 



158 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

simplicity, that your first groove is to be for 
the rough beveling of the strips of the butt 
joint of a two-piece rod, whose diameter at 
the large end is to be 15-32 of an inch, and 
at the small end 9-32. We will also assume 
that the depth of the groove is uniformly J4 
inch from end to end. Secure the block against 
shifting and plane its face until the depth of 
the groove at one end is 15-64 and at the 
other 9-64 inch. To be certain there are no 
uneven places, test with a straight edge, both 
lengthwise and across the block, then mark its 
entire face with a pencil. 

The depth of the second groove will range 
from 9-64 to 3-64, assuming that the tip end 
of your rod is to be 3-32 inch when finished. 

Now place a squared strip of cane in the 
large groove of your block, with the rind at 
one side, and take off a very fine shaving with 
your plane. Turn the strip and plane the 
other side, being careful to go over the knots 
with a shearing motion, else the plane will 
11 bite " into the knots. See that you do not 
cut into the face of the block, which you 
marked with pencil for this purpose. 

By this time your strip will be roughly tri- 
angular, but the edges should not be sharp. 
Take up another strip and bevel it in the 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 159 

same fashion and so on until the six strips 
are ready for the finer work. 

Turn the block over and bevel the strips 
for the tips in the shallow groove, then lay the 
block a,side. Some amateurs finish their strips 
in grooves of this sort, but it is so difficult to 
make a perfect groove of this length, and to 
prevent the strip from rolling, that the follow- 
ing method is the better one for begin- 
ners: 

For this purpose procure a block of hard 
maple, birch or beech, two inches thick, iy 2 
inches wide and 6 inches long. Make it fast 
in the vise and with a pencil draw four par- 
allel lines from end to end. With a saw cut 
shallow grooves on these marks. Take up 
your three-cornered file and cut the first groove. 
Its bottom will be slightly round, as the edge 
of the file is rather blunt, but you can true 
up the groove with the point of ,your steel 
gauge (Fig. 49). Cut the first groove 15-64, 
the second 13-64, the third 11-64, an d the 
fourth 9-64 inch deep. In ,this work the ut- 
most care must be exercised to keep the top 
side of the file level with the surface of the 
block, to keep the angles of the groove per- 
fect. 

Turn the block over, draw four or five lines 



160 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

as before, groove them with the saw, and file 
the grooves. (See Fig. 48.) Make the first 
one }i inch deep, the second 7-64, the third 
3-32, the fourth 5-64, and the last one 1-16 
inch deep. These are for your tips, which re- 
quire the greatest care; therefore the grooves 
may be safely made uniform in depth and you 
can shift steadily to a smaller groove as you 
file from the large to the small end. Cover 
both faces of the block with pencil marks, to 
assist you in keeping the file out of contact 
with the block. 

Fastening this block in the vise with the 
larger set of grooves up, begin with one of 
the strips for the butt of your rod. Lay it in 
the largest groove with the enamel at one side, 
and commencing at the butt end work your flat 
file forward and back, being careful to hold it 
parallel with the fack of the block. Turn the 
strip often, in order that you may be sure to 
keep the angles true, and go from groove to 
groove until the strip is reduced evenly 
throughout its length, beginning again in the 
largest groove and continuing as before, until 
the strip will lie in the groove flush with the 
surface of the block, no matter which side is 
uppermost. Do not attempt to file across the 
grain of your strip, as it will sliver if you do. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 161 

The plane cannot with safety be used in finish- 
ing strips in the short block. The proper tool 
for this is the flat file. 

Test all angles of the strip frequently with 
the little steel gauge, going from end to end, 
filing, testing, sighting along the strip, blow- 
ing the dust out of each groove before laying 
the strip in it. 

Proceed in like fashion with the other strips, 
each one of which must be an equilateral tri- 
angle in section; that is, excepting the con- 
vexity of the rind side. In other words, the 
apex of the triangle must be exactly opposite 
the center of the enamel base, as in Fig. 50, 
and the angle formed by the two pith sides 
60 degrees. Each of the edges must be sharp, 
and in order to make them so, be careful that 
you do not raise a sliver at the enamel edges, 
and in removing it destroy the perfection of 
the glue joint. 

Turning the grooved block over, take up 
your strips for the tips. Even greater care 
is necessary with them, for they run so small 
at the tip end that the least error will ruin 
one. Use the gauge frequently. Do not be 
satisfied with a fair strip; make it perfect. 
Keep in mind the fact that you cannot use the 
rod for several months, anyway, and that a 



162 AMATEUR RODMAKING 



day more or less in finishing strips will not 
matter. 

I have said split cane rodmaking is both dif- 
ficult and simple. If you will be careful and 
patient, the difficulties will be overcome. 




JnWivriisijjffi: 



IWJWWAWr.JJ- 




Figure 50. Figure 51. Figure 52. 

Single Strip Section, Double Strip Unfinished, end Double 
Strip Finished Section. 

Could anything be more simple than this little 

block of hardwood, which you can carry in 

your pocket, and which is easily made, yet is 

in fact a mold for all the strips of your rod? 

Despite all the advances in toolmaking and in 

labor-saving devices, some of the most expert 

rodmakers use this little hand-made block of 

wood. 

By the time you have finished the six strips 

for the tip of your rod, you will have acquired 

great respect for the six-inch block. In a block 

the full length of a strip the tendency of the 

latter to roll is very aggravating, but in the 

short block this is greatly reduced, although 

not entirely overcome, it being difficult to hold 

even this short length against rolling when the 

enamel side is convex. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 163 

It must be understood that one set of 
grooves will serve for a long one-piece rod, 
for one part of a two-piece rod, or for one 
part of a three-piece rod, provided their num- 
ber and depth are properly regulated. The 
angle for all is the same, and the notches in 
your steel angle gauge will be correct for test- 
ing all strips. 

There are many other methods employed 
in beveling and tapering strips, as I said be- 
fore, but the simplest one is given here, for 
if the beginner is confronted with a compli- 
cated system involving planes fitted with bevel 
blocks, adjustable "shooting boards," taper 
gauges and protractors, he cannot be blamed 
for shying from this interesting branch of rod- 
making. 

When your strips are finished, their glassy 
surfaces may seem to be poor holding ground 
for glue, and you may be tempted to roughen 
them. This is a mistake. To satisfy your- 
self, wet one of the surfaces slightly, and after 
it has dried pass your finger over it. You will 
find the grain raised enough to prove that this 
will be taken care of by the hot glue. 

Fit a set of six strips together and wind 
them spirally with thread, so that they will 
all be in perfect contact. Examine all parts 



164 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

carefully and see that the pith sides come to- 
gether throughout, and that no strip sinks 
below its proper plane, as it will do if its 
taper is not the same as that of the other 
strips. In this case a new strip must be made 
to replace it. Cheap rods are often corrected 
for this fault by winding a narrow piece of 
paper spirally around the imperfect place in 
the strip, then removing the paper from the 
surface after gluing, but this is not to be rec- 
ommended, as you would regret it later on, 
perhaps by the seam opening. Gauge care- 
fully the taper of the assembled strips and 
mark all places that need further reducing. 

In a preceding chapter I said that double 
enamel rods are excellent if carefully made. 
In working thin-walled cane this system has 
some points of excellence, and the amateur 
who is skilled with the plane and the file can 
work it nicely, especially for butts and middle 
joints. 

Square up the rough stock and match two 
strips with reference to the knots. Decide 
which is to be the surface strip and plane it 
to rectangular section, with the rind on the 
bottom. Do not touch the rind. Now plane 
the second or inner strip to match, but file off 
just enough of the rind in the center to make 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 165 

a glue joint, it being remembered that the 
convex rind of the inner strip cannot other- 
wise be glued to the pith side of the outer 
strip. Glue the strips together, wind with 
cord, place under a weight or clamp together 
until dry. In section your double enamel strip 
will be like Fig. 51, while Fig. 52 shows the 
sectional view of a finished strip. It is best 
to make the outer strip thinner than the inner 
one, as in this way the maximum of rind is 
obtained. 

It must be understood that in filing the rind 
of the inner strip, only a very small portion of 
its center is to be removed. This will affect 
the strip very little when the two are glued 
together. 

It is not advisable for the beginner to try 
this method on tips until he has mastered the 
less complicated hexagonal work, if at all. 

When your assembled strips are ready for 
gluing, warm them while heating the glue, and 
for each set of strips have ready a piece of 
strong thread. You can glue the strips with 
another person's assistance. To do this, glue 
a few inches at a time, your assistant keeping 
them separated for the purpose. Wind them 
spirally, glue a few more inches, wind again, 
and so on until finished, then wind back to 



166 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

the place of beginning. Whatever the method, 
pass the strips over a flame before pressing 
them into contact, in order to be sure the glue 
is hot, and after the strips have been wound 
in one direction they can be again passed over 
a flame, then the reverse winding completed. 
Use the best French glue, applying it with a 
flat brush while very hot. Before using fresh 
glue soak it over night in cold water. It 
should be quite thin. 

Now sight along each strip alternately and 
correct the natural tendency to twist spirally. 
Rolling in the hands while gluing will partially 
correct this. Fasten the glued stock on a 
board or a rod by winding loosely around both, 
to prevent warping. 

Glued joints should be left in a warm room 
until thoroughly dry. A month is not too 
long, and some of the best rodmakers dislike 
to let rods go out of their shops if the stock 
has had less than four months to dry and 
harden. As a rule they glue their stock in 
the autumn and make up rods from it the fol- 
lowing spring, these rods being kept out of 
the anglers' hands for six months at least. 
Tournament rods should season even longer, 
for they are put to the severest tests. 

Some of the most practical suggestions that 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 167 

have been made to me are those for which I 
am indebted to P. S. Redfield of Providence, 
R. L, a veteran angler. I take pleasure in 
recommending all that he says: 

" If you will pardon me, I would like to 
make a simple suggestion as regards gluing 
split bamboo for rods. As you know, all labor 
is lost and bitter disappointment follows if the 
gluing prove defective. After various failures 
in gluing bamboo strips together, it occurred 
to me to devise some simple but sure method 
of gluing, and the following glue-pot was in- 
vented: Get a piece of common speaking tube, 
such as were formerly used in houses to call 
the kitchen girl to the chambers or dining 
room. One inch in diameter is sufficient and 
2^2 feet long. On one end solder a piece of 
brass or copper three inches square, for a; 
base, and it is ready for the thin, hot glue 
that has been freshly prepared in a sauce-pan 
set in another dish of boiling water. The glue 
should thus be well cooked — say an hour — 
stirring frequently with a thin wood paddle. 

" Enough glue should be thus prepared to 
about fill the tube. Now set the thing in a tea- 
kettle of boiling water and the glue will keep 
hot — a very important thing for success — till 
you glue all your pieces. When through using, 



168 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

and while the glue is hot, empty the tube and 
rinse well in hot water till perfectly clean of 
glue, dry, and hang bottom up for further use. 

" Too much care cannot be taken to prevent 
rusting this tube — as rust and dirt will spoil 
glue — and so much depends on the gluing. 

11 I need not tell how to use this glue-pot, as 
you have already given directions to have the 
pieces for each joint wound spirally with 
coarse thread. It will be well to unwind a 
few inches at a time, commencing at the small 
end. As the piece is unwound, and pushed 
down in the glue, it will act like an egg-beater, 
and consequently glue all surfaces. When half 
of a piece has been thus unwound and whipped 
in the glue, wind the thread back, pressing the 
strips together and the glue out; then unwind 
the other end to a little beyond where the glue 
reached before, thus surely gluing every part; 
then rewind and have a rag handy in a dish 
of hot water to gently wipe most of the glue 
from the outside of the joint. Do not wipe 
too clean, for if a little glue is left on the 
thread, all the better, and no trouble will be 
found in taking off the winding." 

I have found that a piece of one-inch gal- 
vanized iron pipe makes an excellent c;lue-tank. 
The plumber will supply it. Have him put a 



SPLIT BAMBOO ROBMAKING 169 

screw-cap on the bottom end. Being thicker 
than tin, it retains the heat longer. 

Remember that no matter how perfect your 
glue joints are, if your gluing is badly done, 
your work will be wasted. It is folly to at- 
tempt to glue strips in pairs, then glue and 
assemble the three pairs. As your object is to 
get all the glue possible into your joint, then 
get all of this out that can be excluded by 
winding tightly with cord, the best way is to 
glue and wind, glue and wind, until you finish 
the joint, always heating the applied glue be- 
fore winding. Thick glue simply cannot be 
used. I found this the most difficult part of 
split cane rodmaking — at first — but I prac- 
ticed on short pieces until I mastered the work, 
and in this way learned how to properly glue 
the longest strips. Tips are the most difficult 
to glue, as they are so small that it is at first 
hard to prevent twisting them in gluing. If 
this occurs, however, or if the joint be crooked, 
correct it, after the windings have been re- 
moved, by heating and twisting or bending 
until the joint is straight. 

When the stock is dry the double spiral 
windings are taken off and the surplus glue 
removed, then the bamboo is rubbed very 
lightly with the finest sandpaper and the cor- 



170 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

ners rounded slightly. It is then ready for 
handgrasp and ferrules. I prefer to rub 
lightly with varnish and let this dry before 
winding. Split or serrated ferrules should be 
used on bamboo rods in preference to the ordi- 
nary capped ferrules, and in fitting these only 
the corners of the bamboo should be removed. 

To recapitulate: In order to lead from step 
to step without a break, I have tried to de- 
scribe how the butt and tips of a two-piece rod 
may be made. It naturally follows that a 
three-piece or a one-piece rod is made in the 
same fashion, the depth of the grooves in 
your little block varying to accord with the 
caliber of the rod-to-be. 

I would, however, advise you to make sev- 
eral experimental sections of cane before at- 
tempting full length strips; in other words, to 
practice with short pieces until you master first 
principles. 

In order to do this, make your six-inch block 
(Fig. 48) first of all. Take some rejected 
strips a foot or two in length and bevel and 
finish them with great care, having in mind a 
certain taper and following this religiously. It 
is surprising how quickly this will teach you the 
niceties of the system. The short pieces will 
be handy to fit and glue together, and later 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 171 

on you can saw them in two and inspect their 
ends to see just how your work turns out. 
You can also determine which glue seems best. 
Go even further and keep these sample pieces, 
to see how much you have improved in your 
work from time to time. 



CHAPTER XV 

SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING FOR ADVANCED 
WORKERS 

WHY is it that so many anglers go in 
for tournament casting? Has the 
answer ever occurred to you ? Be- 
cause in that pastime one learns so much more 
concerning rods and reels and lines than it is 
possible to acquire on the stream. On the 
platform many theories are tested, and mental 
notes made, for use in the little workshop at 
home. 

Half the fun — yes, more than half — is had 
in the cold season, when there is neither fishing 
nor casting practice, in repairing, altering, or 
making rods to be used in the spring and 
summer. Rodmaking is a pastime in itself. 
There is no closed season; in fact, the rainy 
days, the stormy nights, the winter holidays, 
are the times to practice it. Try it, you who 
think you cannot make a rod. As for a shop, 
any vacant room, or a corner in a basement, 
will serve, while as for tools, only a few sim- 
ple and inexpensive ones are needed. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 173 

Make solid wood rods, if you prefer, for a 
starter, to " get your hand in," but do not 
fail to attempt the making of at least one split 
bamboo rod. 

This work is really not so difficult as it may 
seem. Careful, patient attention to details 
and sharp tools are the principal items to be 
looked after. And the work is so fascinating 
that, after you have had a little practice, you 
will grow as enthusiastic over it as the fly- and 
bait-casters do over their practice on the plat- 
form. 

Much has been said and written in praise of 
hand-made cane rods and in condemnation of 
machine-made rods. In this instance, by 
" machine-made rods " I do not include the 
cheap and nasty stuff that is turned out from 
the sausage mills. 

But let a man who is a past master at hand 
work operate a machine that will do the taper- 
ing and beveling of the selected strips better 
than he can ever do with plane and file, and 
it stands to reason that the strips turned out 
will be perfect. All of the other details being 
cared for in the most painstaking manner, it 
must be conceded that he can finish the strips 
better by the use of a finely adjusted machine 
than it is possible for him to do with hand 
tools. The shaping of the strips being cared 



174 AMATEUR KODMAKING 

for in this way, it remains for him to see that 
the material is of the best, that the roughing 
out be well done, that there be perfect match- 
ing, and that the glueing, straightening, and 
mounting be up to standard. 

The equipment for machining strips may be 
very simple. Take a common lathe, and pro- 
cure two thin milling cutters which, when 
fitted together on an arbor, will cut a strip at 
the proper angle — 60 degrees. Make fast to 
the bed-plate of the lathe a cross-piece of suit- 
able material, rabbeted or grooved to take a 
slide. This slide may be hand, screw, or rack- 
and-pinion operated in several ways, each effec- 
tive and simple. To it the prepared strips of 
cane may be attached, by temporary glueing 
or otherwise. Two things then remain: (1) 
To work the slide carrying the cane strip 
through the revolving cutters; and (2) to 
raise or depress one end of the slide as it 
passes under the cutters, so that the strip 
may be correctly tapered. 

Any mechanic may with a little practice 
make perfect strips in this or a similar fash- 
ion, working to thousandths instead of to sixty- 
fourths of an inch. And, after all, is it any 
the less a hand-made rod because he cut the 
strips with a heavy and accurate machine and 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 175 

not with a wobbling hand plane or file? If 
you make up a set of joints for a rod, work- 
ing entirely with hand tools, would you refuse 
to prepare the ends for the ferrules on a fine 
lathe, on the ground that that was machine 
work, and whittle the ends to fit instead? 

I am merely stating a case. Think it over. 
If you possess the skill and the equipment, try 
it. Otherwise, let us see what may be done 
with an improved plane. A great deal of 
very satisfactory work, I assure you; work 
that is absorbing, interesting to a degree, and 
in which you will find recreation and freedom 
from worry and care. 

In Chapter XIV I favored the short, 
grooved block and the filing of the strips. 
My reasons for so doing was to give novices 
a very simple method. I believed then, and 
still believe, that a full length groove is better, 
but it is not every beginner that is handy 
enough with even simple tools to work in this 
manner. Making one groove for the strips 
for each rod joint requires time and care and 
should be considered a very important part 
of the work. 

For this purpose I procured two blocks of 
hard maple from a mill man who assured me 
that the plank from which he cut them had been 



176 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

" kicking about the shop " for years, and was, 
therefore, well seasoned. One was made a 
trifle over 5 feet long and the other about 2 J / 2 
feet. The faces of each block are all 2 J / 2 
inches wide and absolutely true, as they were 
machine sawed and planed. This gives spaces 
for four grooves, one on each face. 

Taking the shorter block, with a pencil I 
drew a line the full length of each face, each 
line in the exact center. Then with a carpen- 
ter's gauge, passed back and forth a number 
of times, a clean furrow was cut. Then I pro- 
cured a thin wood rabbet plane which had a 
cutter half an inch wide. This iron I ground 
down on each side on the emery wheel until it 
fitted exactly in the center gauge (60 degrees). 
Of course the bottom of the plane was planed 
off to the same angle. 

Great care is at first necessary in deepening 
the original furrow formed with the marking 
gauge, for the narrow plane is likely to follow 
the inequalities of the grain of the wood in- 
stead of sticking to its proper groove. But 
after a fair start has been made, this difficulty 
is eliminated. 

We will assume that the first groove is to 
be made 34 i ncn in depth at one end, and l /% 
inch at the other. Therefore, mark *4 at tne 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 177 

deep end, and J /s at the shallow end, and with 
a try-square and pencil mark entirely across 
the block at 6-inch intervals, putting the dis- 
tances of each from the butt on one side of 
the groove, and the proper finished depth on 
the other. Your reference figures will in this 
way always be before you as you work. If 
your block be three feet long, it will be spaced 
as shown in Fig. 53. 

1 r \ ^ ^ «K »x »\ \ 

Fig- 53- — Maple Block with Grooves Cut on Three 
Faces. (The caliber marks are merely arbitrary ones 
to illustrate the idea.) 

Now for a depth and taper gauge. The 

only reliable one for this purpose that I have 

ever seen was shown me by its inventor, E. 

R. Letterman, of the Chicago Fly-Casting 

Club. Mr. Letterman gave me permission to 

make one like his and to describe it for the 

benefit of fellow anglers. In making mine 

(Fig. 54) I departed from his model only in 

attaching the set-screw. For the base I used 

a piece of 1-16 inch hard brass (A). To this 

were riveted two strips of brass (C C) of the 

same thickness as the steel center gauge (B). 

The gauge may be had at any hardware shop 



178 AMATEUR RODMAKING 




Fig. 54. — Depth and Taper Gauge. 

for twenty-five cents. The cross-plate (D) 
may be of any convenient thickness. In its 
center drill a hole (E) and thread this to take 
the set-screw (F). The screw may also be 
had at hardware shops. 

The width of the device from C to C must 
correspond with that of the center gauge, 
which, when in place, may be pushed up or 
down without side play. Push the center 
gauge under the cross-plate and turn down the 
set-screw when the point of the gauge is ex- 
actly flush with the proper end of plate A. 
Then mark across the strip C at G and exactly 
in line with one of the quarter-inch marks on 
the gauge. It will readily be seen that when 
the mark G is opposite the next quarter-inch 
line on the gauge, the point of gauge will pro- 
trude just ]. J inch. If the lower end of plate 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 179 

is exactly at right angles with center of gauge, 
the device may also be used for clearing the 
groove in your block from dust, and in true- 
ing it up while you are making it as well. I 
made my gauge considerably wider than Mr. 
Letterman's, so that it is of convenient form 
to hold in both hands while it is used as a 
groove scraper, and its wider bottom makes it 
more accurate in trueing the grooves. 

The small end of groove is to be % inch 
deep. Therefore, do not plane that end 
deeper than 5-64 inch, but plane from the 
24-inch mark to the large end, then from the 
12-inch mark to the large end, and so on, gaug- 
ing frequently. When the groove is approxi- 
mately 3-64 inch shallower throughout than it 
must be when finished, lay aside the plane and 
thereafter use the scraper only. Set it at 7-64 
and scrape forward and back until that depth 
at the small end of the groove is attained. 
Then scrape from the 30-inch station toward 
the large end, and so on, gauging often, until 
the depth at each station is 1-64 inch less than 
it should be. When satisfied that the groove 
is true throughout, the final scraping from sta- 
tion to station, with a change in the gauge for 
each, will result in a groove that is only a trifle 
less accurate than one made on a machine. 



180 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

If this groove is for the strips of the butt 
joint of your rod, make another one for the 
middle joint, and a third for the tip, all start- 
ing from the same end of your block, and each 
one properly marked at each 6-inch station. 
Just beside the groove bore a hole through the 
butt of the block, and another one at right 
angles to the first one. The holes should be 
of a size to fit snugly over a short steel pin to 
be driven in your work-bench. This will steady 
the block while you are planing strips. 

Finally, varnish all faces of the block, but 
not the grooves. This will preserve the pen- 
cil marks, so that it will not be necessary to 
renew them frequently, and will also prevent 
the plane from coming into contact with the 
hardwood block. After the varnish has dried, 
clear out the grooves with the gauge, to be sure 
that no varnish got into them. Any varnish 
that happens to be at hand will do for the 
block, and shellac will answer, though it is not 
very durable for the purpose. 

It is some trouble to make a perfect form 
for the three joints of a rod, but after you 
have finished your first block and find it well 
made, you need not be ashamed to show it 
to your best friend. But there is only one 
way to go about the work: When you have 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 181 

decided just what the calibers of your rod 
are to be, mark off three sides of a good block 
of wood, set down the calibers thereon, and 
then begin work on the grooves some day when 
you have nothing else on hand. Take it easy, 
go slowly, and call it a good day's work when 
the block is ready for the cane. 

Take another full day for splitting and 
roughing out the strips for your rod. Try to 
believe that all you intend to do is to work 
out a sufficient number of rough strips, each 
one as perfect as possible, match joints and 
lay aside until another year each set of six. 
Of course you will not do this, but at any rate 
go very slowly, for the careful selection and 
matching of strips are very important steps. 

Tonkin cane is the only material worth con- 
sidering in the making of a first-class rod. 
The day of the Calcutta bamboo rod has 
passed, and it is best to forget that your grand- 
father ever made a good rod of that material. 
I doubt if any other amateur rodmaker has 
poked into more queer corners and out-of-the 
way places in New York City and its environs 
in search of Calcutta bamboo than I have, and 
for all the canes that I bought, carried home, 
and finally threw away I would not give one 
red stamp to-day. It would be a shameful 



182 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

waste of two perfectly good cents. Tonkin is 
used by all first-class rodmakers, and al- 
though some of them may sigh for the good 
old days of the Calcutta rod, in the final analy- 
sis they will admit — albeit modestly — that they 
are making mighty good rods to-day. The 
truth is that their best rods are better by far 
than any that grandpa ever made of any ma- 
terial. What more, then, does any amateur 
rodmaker want? 

Tonkin cane comes to our markets in bun- 
dles of two sizes. The longer canes are six 
feet or a trifle more in length, and the average 
diameter is about i}i inches. The canes in 
the shorter bundles are about 3 J / 2 feet long, 
and their diameter is about i inch. These are 
used for tips or are bored and capped for tip 
tubes. 

From the six-foot canes select at least three, 
being particular to pick those in which the dis- 
tance between knots varies. As a rule the dis- 
tance between knots is quite uniform, but I 
have seen canes which had only three knots. 
In some the knots are very close together near 
the root, and far apart at the top end. Of 
course, the shorter the joints of your rod are 
to be, the more latitude will you have In match- 
ing up the strips, but if you are planning to 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 183 

make a 5 J / 2 -foot bait-casting tip, the selection 
of canes will be a more important matter. 

The darker the enamel of the canes, the 
better are they likely to be. Avoid all that 
are green, grayish-green or pale yellow. Sea- 
soned canes are reddish-yellow, orange, or 
straw color, with no green tone whatever. 
When tapped with a stick they give out a good 
strong round ring, somewhat like a metal tube, 
whereas the green canes give forth a dull, flat 
sound. 

Do not discard a cane merely because it is 
cracked, but if it has been crushed, avoid it. 
Grayish stains may indicate mildew, possibly 
from the hold of some leaky old ship, but 
irregular brown stains are sought by some 
makers, and are found on the strips of nearly 
all the best rods. This, I fear, is but a lame 
description, for I am sure that I can pick out 
good canes better than I can describe just how 
good canes should look. It is a good deal like 
picking out a ripe watermelon. Any country 
boy can do this instinctively, and yet he will 
find it difficult to explain just how he does it. 

One thing more : You may not agree with 
me as to the color of seasoned and green canes 
because you have seen rods made up from 
canes showing decided greenish hues. This is 



184 AMATEUR BO DM AKIN G 

true, but that is not proof that the material 
used had been seasoned. I have also heard 
people complain that, whereas almost any 99- 
cent rod was made from " nice, clear, white 
cane," every high-priced rod was stained and 
dark and dingy! 

In splitting the canes use the strongest knife 
you possess. There is nothing better than a 
hunting knife with a good thick-backed blade. 
Lay it across the end of the cane, so that you 
can split it in half, and drive the blade home 
with a wood mallet or billet, continuing until 
the other end is reached. Split all your canes 
in half before going further, then place each 
cane on your bench, with one end against some- 
thing solid, and with a carpenter's gouge at- 
tack the knots inside the halves. A large 
gouge is better than a narrow one, as its 
curved blade will fit the inside of the cane 
better than a small tool. These knots are very 
tenacious, and it may be necessary to tap the 
gouge lightly with the mallet. Cut them out 
as smoothly as possible, but without cutting 
into the soft side of the cane. There are two 
good reasons for doing this at the time: it will 
be easier to go further with the splitting, and 
the rived strips will not need so much rough- 
ing on that side. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 185 

Next file all the knots on the outside of the 
canes, smoothing them down even with the 
enamel. You will find a cane or part of a cane 
now and then in which the wood curves down 
from the knot, so that it is difficult to obtain 
anything like a plane surface at that point. 
Mark such points with a blue pencil, and dis- 
card the strips carrying them after splitting. 
Such strips may be straightened by heating 
over an alcohol lamp and bending or clamping 
in a vise, but they are better out of the way. 

On the inside of each half cane place such 
marks as will show on every strip taken from 
it, so that in matching strips you can surely 
identify each one as coming from a certain 
cane. 

It is generally possible to split each half- 
cane into three strips, each of good width, but 
if the cane splits off to one side, as sometimes 
happens, do not attempt to force matters, but 
let it go at that, for it is always better to plane 
a thick piece down to size than to try to split 
to that size. 

With canes that are well seasoned it is only 
necessary to start the knife with a smart blow, 
then push it down, the cane opening nicely far 
ahead of the blade and in a fairly straight line. 
But if it splits badly, going off at a tangent 



186 AMATEUR RODMAKIXG 

or slivering, it is just as well to discard that 
piece for something more promising. Any- 
way, this is a case of selection, and not of 
making the available material serve the pur- 
pose. In making the butt of a salmon rod I 
split twenty-three pieces of good cane, but 
finally discarded every one of them as not 
quite up to standard, and finally split out 
twelve more strips of thinner material and 
after working them to shape, glued them in 
pairs and made the joint double enamel. 

Thus far we have accomplished something, 
but have really not yet started to work, for 
we have no plane to work with. Any old 
plane will do? Not at all. There is only one 
type that is worth using, and it is worthless as 
it comes from the hardware shop, where the 
price is fifty cents for the plane, and about 
half as much more for an extra iron, which 
will come in very handy. 

In 1889 Norman E. Spaulding contributed 
a very workmanlike article on rodmaking to 
the American Angler. In it he referred to 
the method of altering the plane iron to 
which I refer below. This impressed me, but 
it was not until many years afterward that I 
began to count Mr. Spaulding as one of my 
friends. Since then he has given me many 



SPLIT BAMBOO ROBMAKING 187 

useful hints on rodmaking. He impressed 
me with the fact that the long, thin cutting iron 
of the small plane was almost useless for cut- 
ting Tonkin cane, but with the alterations he 
advocated the cutter became a sharp scraper 
rather than a plane, and it did not take me 
very long to find that his method was better 
than any other one that I had ever tried. 



Fig. 55- — Dotted Line Shows Angle for Regrinding 
Plane Iron. 

Purchase a Stanley No. 220 plane with 
extra iron. This is an adjustable iron block 
plane 7^ inches in length, and the width of 
the iron is 1% inches. If you cannot grind 
the two irons properly, take them to a grinder 
and tell him what is wanted. In Fig. $$ the 
shape of the cutting edge of the iron as it 
comes from the shop is given, while the dotted 
line shows the edge as it must be after grind- 
ing. The cutting face of the iron thus meets 
the bamboo at an angle of about 70 degrees — 
nearly a right angle — and becomes in effect a 
sharp scraper which will not splinter the cane 
nor bite into knots. Tonkin cane being very 
hard, however, it will be necessary to have 



188 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

your oilstone handy, and hone the cutters fre- 
quently, for with this blunt edge a very sharp 
iron is a necessity as well as a joy. 

This brings us to the rough work on the 
strips. As an aid I have found that a piece 
of pine board with a grooved edge is as good 
as anything. Fasten it in your vise and hold 
the strips in the groove while planing them. 
It is a good plan to plane the sides only at 
first, thus leaving the strips rectangular in sec- 
tion, and tapering slightly. 

Select the best six strips for the purpose, 
and match them. Lay them all enamel up on 
the bench, first having marked on its top two 
lines, as far apart as the length of your rod 
joints when finished. Place the first strip over 
these marks so that the fewest possible num- 
ber of knots will be between them. Lay the 
second strip alongside of the first one, and 
shift it so that its knots will not come very 
close to those on the first strip. By shifting 
the rest of the strips many times, or trying 
still others instead of some at first selected, 
you will eventually be able to match up six 
strips for the butt joint, with no two knots 
directly opposite each other. Mark across all 
of them in two places, and saw them, being 
careful that their length exceeds by at least 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 189 

two inches the finished length of joint. Put 
identification marks on each strip, and lay them 
all aside. 

Select another set of strips for the middle 
joint of your rod^ and two more sets for the 
tips — that is, if you intend to make a spare 
one. It is sometimes well, however, to leave 
the tips until the last, for it is more than prob- 
able that you will reject some strips after they 
are partly finished, as not quite up to standard 
for butt or joint, and if these are not defec- 
tive in any way they may be worked over for 
tips. 

In all of this work of selection it is a good 
plan not to pick out for any one joint more 
than two strips from each cane split up, and 
one would be even better. From several 
good canes it is likely you will get a better 
set than if they were all taken from one or 
two. If two strips from the same cane are 
put in a joint, see that they do not lie ,on dia- 
metrically opposite sides, as the strips of a 
rod work in pairs, and each pair should con- 
sist of two perfect strips. 

Mr. Letterman prepares the rectangular 
strips for the final beveling by drawing them 
through the large V in his center gauge. 
These gauges are highly tempered, and the 



100 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

edges will cut like a sharp scraper. He fas- 
tens the gauge in a vise, bandages the thumb 
and fore finger of the left hand, to prevent 
cutting them on the gauge or the sharp edges 
of the cane, then draws the strips through the 
gauge. The strip is inclined slightly, to pre- 
sent a better cutting edge, and considerable 
pressure is exerted by thumb and finger. I 
have tried this plan with satisfaction and can 
recommend it. 

If I were beginning all over again, I would 
use nothing in rod — and other — work but a 
micrometer caliper; but while I use one a 
great deal, in rodmaking I have been accus- 
tomed to using a gauge marked in 64ths of an 
inch, and to change would necessitate the cor- 
recting of a great many charts and working 
plans. There is one thing that will help ma- 
terially, and that is to ignore all coarser desig- 
nations under one inch and use 64ths alone. 
By this I mean to designate }i as 8-64, and 
so on, the idea being to eliminate, as far as 
possible, the necessity for mental calculations 
of any kind while you are working. You may 
consider this point trivial, but let someone call 
you to lunch while you are on a delicate piece 
of work, and unconsciously you begin to rush 
things in order to reach a satisfactory stop- 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 191 

ping place — and the result very often is a slip 
or something that will mar your work. That 
is one reason why the micrometer is so satis- 
factory; the marks are all in thousandths. 

At first you will not be expert enough to 
attempt to bevel and taper a strip held in the 
grooved board mentioned, although you can 
readily reduce each strip to satisfactory shape 
in this way and by drawing through the cen- 
ter gauge. From this stage on, then, consult 
your micrometer or gauge often, noting at the 
same time the readings on your grooved block. 

In using the block plane with scraper edge 
you can plane a strip from either end without 
the slightest fear of cutting into grain or knot. 
Therefore plane toward the butt end of your 
strips until they are of good form and size, 
then reverse them and holding the strip in the 
groove with left thumb behind the plane, work 
toward the other end, first on one side, then on 
the other, always being careful to see that the 
enamel face of strip lies true in the groove. 
And as the edges of Tonkin are very sharp, 
either bandage the left thumb or provide it 
with the thumb of an old glove, and in either 
case dip the member in powdered rosin fre- 
quently. Should you sustain a bad cut — and 
it is almost impossible to avoid this at first — 



192 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

dip the injured finger at once into shellac, then 
into sawdust. By this treatment bleeding will 
be checked, and inflammation will not set in, 
to spoil your work for a week. 

Of course it is wise to set the plane very fine, 
and to work slowly. Besides gauging fre- 
quently, test the strips often with your center 
gauge, to see that the angles are true. It is 
also possible to gauge them on all sides at the 
same time, but this requires a gauge specially 
fitted. Such a one was made for me by 
a fellow angler, J. E. Radford, of Hyde Park, 
Mass. This consisted of a caliper gauge with 
a center gauge so fastened across its face that 
the readings on the slide of the gauge were 
correct for each face. In use the strip is 
passed through the triangular opening and the 
slide closed. In a moment the strip may be 
tested and marked, if necessary, at any num- 
ber of places throughout its length, and very 
accurate work is therefore possible. 

When all the strips have been planed to 
nearly perfect size and taper, put them to- 
gether, and with a length of string wind them 
spirally from end to end, exerting consider- 
able tension meanwhile. Caliper on all sides 
from end to end, marking in your own fashion 
a place that is too high, too low, or too wide, 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 193 

as the case may be. Take them apart again 
and correct the errors, rewind them, and so 
on until you are satisfied with the result. 

At this stage it is well to have in hand a 
memorandum of the calibers of the ferrules 
you plan to put on your rod, and to work to- 
ward that end. Remember that the diameter 
of the cane on flat surfaces cannot be less than 
the inside diameter of the ferrule that is to go 
on it. It is better to use a large ferrule than 
one requiring filing the cane to fit. 

Of course the work on middle joint and tip 
will be like that already described, but, con- 
trary to the lay opinion, it is easier. When 
an outsider looks at a slender tip and is told 
that there are six strips in it, he marvels 
greatly, but with the system described it is 
not so very difficult to make tips after you 
have had some practice with the thicker and 
less wieldy butt strips. 

Before you make the middle joint, glue up 
the butt, and perhaps that work will give you 
an idea or two that will help you in the sub- 
sequent work with the plane. At least it will 
show you that illy fitted strips will not be im- 
proved or hidden in the glueing, and that you 
have got to have them right before you cement 
up the faults past correcting. 



194 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

There may be a better glue than Coignet 
No. i, a French product that is called after 
the chemist of that name, but if so I am not 
familiar with it. Let it soak overnight in just 
enough water to cover the glue in the pot. At 
best glueing strips is a messy proceeding, but 
if you will go to a little extra trouble some of 
the unpleasant details may be eliminated. 
From the plumber's scrap-heap select a piece 
of pipe of any size and at least two-thirds the 
length of your rod joints. If one end is 
threaded, have a cap fitted to that end. This 
is your glue tank. 

Glue the strips in a warm room, and have 
strips, glue, and temperature uncomfortably 
warm. Provide a large pail of boiling water, 
and when all is ready, pour the glue from its 
pot into the tube, set the latter in the pail of 
water, and insert the bundle of strips at least 
a foot into the hot glue. Holding the strips 
just above the glue mark, wind spirally with a 
piece of strong cord down to the glued end and 
two-thirds of the way back. Grasp the glued 
portion, unwind about three inches of the por- 
tion first wound, dip into the glue and hold 
there until all of the strips are well coated, 
ami the chilled glue at the place of commence- 
ment shall have had time to be warmed up, 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 195 

then resume winding toward the small end, 
dipping that end frequently, to keep the glue 
hot. When that end is reached, reverse and 
wind back to the other end, and tie off. 

Roll the bundle of strips smartly back and 
forth on a table, to straighten them, but do 
not attempt to bend them, as every bend that 
is trued will put a kink into the strips some- 
where else. Suspend the joint from a nail in 
a warm room for several days until the glue 
has had plenty of time to set, then remove the 
cord windings and scrape off the surplus glue. 
With a fine file go over each of the six faces 
lightly, then rub over all with an old piece of 
very fine sandpaper. 

The corners should not be rounded, as this 
will take away part of the enamel, but they 
may be rubbed a trifle to remove the sharp 
edges. If the joint be straight, congratulate 
yourself; if not, pass it through the flame of 
an alcohol lamp until it is uncomfortably hot 
to the touch, turning rapidly while so doing, 
then true it up and it is ready for the ferrules. 

For the sake of brevity, let us assume that 
your rod is to be a fly rod, and that you are 
particular that it be of a certain length. In 
order to determine the lengths of the three 
principal pieces, lay them on the floor, with 



196 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

the ferrules beside them, and allowing for the 
ferrules, divide the known total length by 
three, and marking each joint, lay the three 
side by side and check up. Remember that 
the large ferrules are longer than the other 
set, and that the reel-seat will add a trifle to 
the length of the lower joint. 

Provide a piece of clear w T hite pine for the 
butt of the joint, shape it to fit inside the reel- 
seat, and bore it carefully, then glue it in place 
on the butt so that it will be a quarter-inch 
shorter than the reel-seat. Good quality sheet 
cork is nicest for the hand-grasp, and if you 
have no large metal tube handy to cut it with, 
cut it up in squares about ij4 inches in diam- 
eter, then hunt up an old ferrule of proper 
size, file one end sharp, and cut holes in each 
square to fit over the joint. Do not try to 
cut the cork by hammering the cutter, but hold 
the latter in one hand and with a circular mo- 
tion cut out the corks. When a sufficient num- 
ber have been made ready, push them down, 
glue-coated, one at a time, to the reel-seat 
dummy, mismatching the squares so that no 
two corners will come together. Slide an old 
piece of heavy pipe down on the lot, and set 
the joint away in a corner until the glue is 
dry. 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 197 

The grasp may be roughed out with a sharp 
knife until most of the corners are removed, 
then rub lengthwise with coarse sandpaper 
fitted over a wood block, then with fine sand- 
paper, turning constantly and calipering fre- 
quently to preserve the shape. Try the reel- 
seat now and then, and the winding check as 
well, and when the grasp is shaped to fit both 
properly, rub lightly with an old piece of the 
finest grade of sandpaper, and turn your atten- 
tion to the ferrule. 

Mark the cane at the point where the fer- 
rule is to rest, then file off the corners from a 
point just above this mark to the end, being 
extremely careful to keep the cutting true with 
the axis of the cane. Of course it is far better 
to prepare the cane for ferrules in a lathe, but 
good work may be done without one. File and 
try until you are sure that the ferrule will go 
home with a little forcing, then heat your ce- 
ment and the wood over the alcohol lamp, rub 
the cement on evenly, and warming the ferrule 
slightly, push it on with steady pressure until 
it is down to the pencil mark. If it is a split 
or serrated ferrule, wind the end temporarily 
with a bit of string, then cement the reel-seat 
on the other end in similar fashion and attach 
the winding check. 



198 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

Good cement for this work may be had from 
dealers, but I have never found anything that 
will hold better than old, sticky shellac — just 
such stuff as you will find in a bottle that has 
been left standing a long time without a 
stopper. You may have to pry it out with a 
stick, but warm it and it will hold a ferrule in 
place until the cows come home. I have an 
idea that a trifle of plaster of Paris mixed with 
it will improve it, but have not as yet used this 
on a ferrule, though it will hold arrow piles 
nicely. 

Procure a small section of hard German sil- 
ver wire, and a twist drill, each 3-64 inch thick. 
Drill a hole in the reel-seat and down to the 
cane, fitting it with a suitable length of the 
wire, and file off the end flush with the sur- 
face. Mark a place at about the center of 
female ferrules, and toward the end of male 
ferrules, and securing the joint in a vise, drill 
carefully entirely through each ferrule, fit pins, 
and smooth off the ends. When a good fer- 
rule is properly cemented, then pinned through, 
it should never work loose unless exposed to 
the drying incident to steam-heated places. 
Cement alone will hold most ferrules, and this 
method will answer for the beginner who may 
not be handy in delicate work, but all of the 



SPLIT BAMBOO RODMAKING 199 

best rods are equipped with pinned ferrules, 
and it is seldom indeed that one of them ever 
comes loose, even when kept in very dry places. 
In selecting the guides for your rod, try to 
procure tops fitted with phosphor-bronze, or, 
failing in that, hard steel rings. For the hand 
guide agate is all right, though I dislike agates 
for fly rods for the reason that they are so 
easily broken. Bronze is better in every way, 
and as it is a so-called greasy metal, it wears 
but slowly, and to offset this the rings may be 
turned now and then and cemented with a drop 
of shellac. For the other guides, select bronzed 
steel snake rings, and have them a trifle large 
rather than too small, so that the line will ren- 
der through them freely. It is a curious fact 
that the total number of guides for a fly rod 
is generally 13. May it be a lucky number 
with you. 



CHAPTER XVI 

WINDING RODS 

THIS subject has been kept for a separate 
chapter in order that the various steps 
in rodmaking can be clearly understood, 
and to avoid repetition. Winding is a part of 
the work that can be done at odd moments, on 
a rainy day or in the evening, though I would 
not advise night work with colored silks, so 
trying are they on the eyes. 

Let us assume, then, that you have finished 
a rod — its type does not matter, as the wind- 
ing is similar for all rods — and that it has 
been rubbed lightly with varnish and hung up 
until absolutely dry. 

The first things to consider are the guides. 
If the bait-rod is for accuracy casting or for 
fishing, the hand guide — the first one above 
the reel — will be placed nearer the reel, and 
more guides will be used than on a rod intend- 
ed for distance casting only, on which two or 
three guides only will be used. For fly-rods the 
200 



WINDING RODS 201 

position and number of guides depend upon its 
caliber and length. 

Take up the guides one by one and file the 
upper edges of the bases, so that the silk will 
not be cut by them in winding; then, with a 
few turns of common thread, tie each one on 
the rod and true them all up by sighting 
through them from both directions. To assist 
in their alignment tiny shallow holes should 
be drilled in both ferrules, so that in putting 
the rod together it is merely necessary to seat 
the ferrules with the two marks opposite in 
order to align the guides perfectly. This ap- 
plies to all rods. 

On bait-casting rods for tournament work 
alone, it seems best to use only two guides, so 
that the hand guide must be three feet or more 
from the reel, the distance between it and the 
second guide being slightly more than the dis- 
tance between the second guide and the agate 
top, in order to insure the least possible friction 
on the line. 

If you are particular to have the windings as 
handsome as possible, putting them on without 
wax will tend to preserve their color, if they 
are carefully coated with shellac before var- 
nishing. On a rod whose preliminary coat of 
varnish is still a trifle soft, yet not tacky, un- 



202 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

waxed silk will adhere nicely when it will not 
on hard varnish. Provided the silk is treated 
with absolutely colorless wax in clean hands, it 
will keep its color fairly well, but after the 
first two or three windings are put on and 
coated with shellac, the tyro will understand 
why dark shades of silk cannot well be used. 
For example, dark green silk, waxed but not 
shellacked, will turn almost black under the 
varnish, and red turns a dull shade. Wax 
causes the silk to grip the wood firmly and it 
waterproofs the wood in places where there is 
only one coat of varnish. Still, there is no 
necessity for waxing the silk. 

A split cane rod, properly made and ce- 
mented, can be used without windings, pro- 
vided it is not exposed to actual soaking. Fol- 
lowing this line of reasoning, some rodmakers 
hold that winding a rod does not strengthen 
it materially. This may be true of rods whose 
windings are spaced ij< or 2 inches apart, 
but if these are placed one inch or less apart 
they do strengthen the rod. A rod that is 
soft in action may be strengthened by close 
windings or by winding continuously from end 
to end in spirals, provided the latter arc spaced 
about one thirty-second of an inch and not 
put on solidly. 



WINDING RODS 203 

If you are in no hurry it is well to make the 
windings on the butt of split cane rods narrow, 
say twelve turns each, but space them about 
1% inches apart, with six or more windings 
y 2 inch apart next to the ferrule. On the 
joint make the spaces one inch, with a similar 
cluster next the ferrules, and vary those on 
the tip from Y^ to y 2 inch. I am a firm be- 
liever in closer windings near the ferrules, to 
strengthen the strips there against damage in 
twisting — not that ferrules should be sepa- 
rated in any other manner than by a straight 
pull. 

It is safe, but not always advisable to wind 
in spiral form, provided the spirals are not 
so close together as to come under the descrip- 
tive term " solidly wound " ; for solid winding 
renders a rod soft in action, loading it down 
with a non-resilient sleeve filled with var- 
nish. 

I do not advocate continuous spiral wind- 
ing, but I believe in stiffening a rod in this 
manner if the need arises. The plan I have 
followed with satisfactory results is to start 
winding in the usual way, but after complet- 
ing ten or a dozen turns, instead of cutting the 
silk and pulling the end under, I follow the 
11 band " by winding spirally — each turn about 



204 AMATEUR RODMAKIXG 

1-32 of an inch from the next one — for an 
inch or more, then winding solidly ten or 
twelve turns, followed by another inch or two 
of spiral winding, and so on to the first guide, 
where the silk ends. Another series of bands 
and spiral windings is begun on the opposite 
side of the guide, ending at the second guide, 
or the ferrule, as the case may be. 

This spiral winding calls for two or three 
coats of varnish, which should fill the inter- 
stices between spirals, so that the surface will 
be smooth, as otherwise a knock or rough 
handling will break the single strands of silk. 
The bands alone are coated with shellac. 

As previously stated, I have great faith in 
the conclusions arrived at after long experi- 
ence by Frederic M. Halford. He advocates 
winding fly-rods closely, from one-half to 
three-quarters of an inch apart. In his opin- 
ion this increases the steely spring of a split 
cane rod and strengthens wood rods appre- 
ciably. He does not state how wide these 
windings should be, but it is assumed that 
they are narrow, say seven threads in width, 
since wider ones are unsightly. 

When your rod is ready to be wound, your 
hands being perfectly clean, lay on your work 
table a small spool of buttonhole silk, the silk 



WINDING RODS 



205 



to be used in winding, a bit of wax, a pair of 
small scissors, and a very sharp knife. From 
the buttonhole silk cut a piece four inches 
long, wax it, lay the ends together and draw it 
through the fingers until it will lie straight 
with the looped end ready for use. We will 
call it the pull-through. 

It is assumed that your silk is not waxed, 
and that you take up the butt joint of your 
rod, the first winding to be put on just above 
the metal taper of the handgrasp. Lay the 
silk along the rod, hold the end with the left 
thumb and begin the first circle, toward the 
right, turning the rod toward the left mean- 




Fig. 56. — Method of Attaching Winding at Beginning. 



206 AMATEUR BO DM AKIN G 

while. This will bind the end of silk, as shown 
in Fig. 56. Turn the rod slowly toward the 
left with the left hand, holding the silk tight 
in the right hand, which guides it. Draw the 
silk as tight as possible during the first three 
turns, so that it will adhere to the rod. 

If you wish to make ten or twelve circlets, 
after the sixth one lay the pull-through (d Fig. 
57) along the rod, loop toward the left, and 



1 

Figure 57. 

wind over it, as shown in Fig. 60; but if the 
winding is to be narrow, the pull-through 
should be inserted at the beginning. This step 
is illustrated in Figs. 57 and 58. Count each 




Figure 58. 

complete circlet, at least at first, in order that 
all windings will be uniform. At the end hold 

the wound silk under the left thumb, cut it 
within an inch of the thumb, tuck the end (b 



WINDING RODS 



207 




Figure 59. 




Figure 61. 



Fig- 58) through the loop of the pull-through 
and draw the latter under the winding, the 
end of silk following as in Fig. 59. 

When the pull-through is free, pull on the 
end (b) of winding silk until it is tight, then 
shave it off even with the winding and cut the 
original end {a) even with the last circlet of 
silk. (This is often cut after the fifth or sixth 
circlet.) Fig. 61 illustrates the method em- 
ployed in making a narrow border of say, red, 
for a wide band of say, green. The figure 
shows the wide green band finished and the 
first stage in winding the border. In this case 
the original end of silk {a Fig. 59) is not cut 
off until the border is finished, as it helps to 
hold both bands together. The pull-through 



208 AMATEUR BODMAKING 

is inserted at the beginning of the border wind- 
ing, and used in the same manner as illustrated 
in Fig. 59. 

This method of manipulating rod windings 
is the simplest one of several for making so- 
called endless windings. It is capable of nu- 
merous variations, and it is not only easy to 
learn, but insures satisfaction. 

The secret of the method is to keep the 
pull-through of buttonhole silk well waxed, 
and to discard it for a new one whenever it 
shows wear. 

In all books on rodmaking more compli- 
cated forms of winding are described and 
illustrated. The first step is alike in all of 
these, but their authors describe the finishing 
step in other ways. The most common form 
consists in laying the winding silk along the 
rod, so that long spirals can be passed over 
the end of the rod and drawn taut, then the 
silk is pulled under in the same way as de- 
scribed by me, save that no separate pull- 
through is employed. If one is winding near 
the middle of a long joint, this method is te- 
dious in the extreme, and the silk not only 
snarls up, but becomes frayed. There is a 
way to partially overcome this, which consists 
in first winding backward in long spirals, pass- 



WINDING RODS 209 

ing tne end under these, winding tight, then 
pulling the silk under; but it, too, is tedious. 

Many years ago I discarded these methods 
for the separate pull-through, and have used 
it in all windings since then. It may be an- 
cient, but I have never seen it described in any 
work on fishing tackle.* It is, however, one 
of the most useful of all wrinkles, and is par- 
ticularly handy in splicing silk lines. With this 
pull-through fancy windings of only two or 
three turns of silk can be so neatly made that 
only after "minute inspection can the blind ends 
of the silk be seen. Indeed, I have heard 
anglers assert that such windings had been 
pasted down with shellac, and only after in- 
specting them with a magnifying glass were 
they convinced that the silk ends were actually 
pulled under and cut off. 

I have examined split bamboo tournament 
rods in which the lower strips had given way 
through hard usage, but the narrow bands of 
silk had held so firmly that they were all rup- 

* In reviewing " Rodmaking for Beginners," Hugh T. 
Sheringham, angling editor of the London Field, said, 
among other things : " Here and there he gives some 
very sage advice of general application, and some ad- 
mirable hints. Among these may be mentioned his system 
of finishing off a whipping by means of a 'pull through/ 
quite one of the most useful things we have seen for 
some time, and one which we do not remember to have 
seen elsewhere." 



210 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

tured at the line of the break, the ends re- 
maining unmoved. This also shows the 
strength of silk windings, however narrow. 

Different persons wind rods differently. 
My way may not be the best one, but I will 
describe it. I begin with the butt joint and 
place a rather wide band of, say, green, with 
a narrow red border next to the handgrasp 
taper, then a similar band on each side of the 
ferrules and at the top. After that I wind the 
guides with, say, green, with narrow red bor- 
ders. This leaves only red silk to finish, and 
enables you to evenly divide the remaining 
spaces to be wound. The space between the 
handgrasp and the first guide is measured. 
Mark off every 1%. inches from the guide 
down, and if you like finish up with eight or 
ten five-turn windings just ahead of the first 
band at the taper, for ornaments. Wind the 
red bands, then mark the spaces between the 
two guides, or hand guide and ferrule, wind 
there, and so on. So long as all spacing is 
uniform, any necessary variations will not be 
noticed, but as a general thing make the spaces 
closer and closer toward the tip, and if there 
is a separate tip, place its guides and windings 
so that it will match its fellow tip. 

At first one is inclined to make his windings 
wide, believing that they are handsome so; 



WINDING RODS 211 

but as they are not necessary, it is well to make 
them all ten or twelve turns, with still nar- 
rower ones next to the wide bands covering 
the guides, and at the ends of the joints. Red 
being a lasting color, it is well to use it through- 
out, with light or medium green for borders. 
All red without ornaments requires much less 
work, but is not so neat as if there is some 
relief. If you object to colors, use cream or 
light yellow silk, which will hardly show on 
bamboo or dagama. For bethabara red is 
standard. Green alone or as a predominat- 
ing color lacks taste, although it comes out well 
for narrow borders with red. At one time I 
happened to see a spool of lilac silk while wind- 
ing a rod, and tried it. It looked so neat at 
first that I used it throughout the rod, using 
apple green for borders. The rod was a good 
one, but I couldn't stand those colors, and 
gave it away to a fisherman in Canada. 
Somehow the colors " got on his nerves," too, 
and he in turn gave the rod to an uncle whose 
vision was poor. I trust the old gentleman 
does not consider it a hoodoo rod, as his 
nephew and its maker did 

There is a sort of unwritten law among 
rodmakers to use heavy winding silk on large 
rods, and so on down to the finest silk foi 
light fly-rods. It is well to follow this rule 



212 AMATEUR RODMAKIXG 

so far as may be possible. On tarpon, heavy 
salt water and trolling rods, on salmon rods 
and on the butt joints of heavy fly-rods size 
A is the proper thing. It is the commercial 
size that can be obtained anywhere. Size O 
is suitable for joints, size 00 for tips of most 
rods, and for light fly-rods. One reason for 
this is that on tips the heavier silk is likely to 
be cut through by the line as it shoots through 
the guides in casting the fly, whereas the finer 
silk windings may be unaffected. On tourna- 
ment fly-rods, when the line is coiled on a 
platform that is covered with grit, it is not 
unusual to see the windings of tips cut through 
as if w T ith a dull knife. 

Smaller silk than A is difficult to obtain of 
the retail trade, but there is a way to so 
utilize A silk that it will answer every require- 
ment, with a lasting supply always at hand in 
the nearest dry goods store. This method 
follows : 

Having selected the colors desired, wind 
the guides and ferrules — if the latter are split 
or serrated — with size A. If the ferrule and 
guide windings are to have borders of another 
color, leave these until the last thing. Take 
a spool of A and cut off a piece a foot long 
and rub this carefully with wax, which must 
be colorless and free from foreign matter that 



WINDING RODS 213 

will darken the silk. Twist this piece of silk 
in the opposite direction to that followed in 
its manufacture, so that the strands will sepa- 
rate, and hold them apart until each one of 
the three can be removed and laid aside. Now 
take up one of the strands and wax it thor- 
oughly. It will remain a trifle kinky, but that 
will not matter. After it is waxed, it will 
cease trying to snarl up, as at first, and you 
will have a really strong thread of silk floss 
much softer than the three-ply strand from 
which it was taken. Try it on the thin tip 
of a fly-rod, and you will notice that in wind- 
ing it will lie flat and spread out a trifle, like 
a ribbon, while it will not look so lumpy, even 
as a thread of 00 silk, and after the rod has 
been varnished the windings will be very neat 
and workmanlike 

It is obvious that this thread is not as 
strong as three-ply, and it should be tested to 
determine how much strain it will bear with- 
out breaking. It is stronger, however, than 
would be supposed, and I have wound a fly- 
rod tip with separated strands of O without 
breaking more than three all told; so that the 
A strands will give little trouble on this score 
if properly waxed. 

Of course, in employing this method, you 
cannot work from the spool, but must cut off 



214 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

suitable lengths and wax and separate the 
strands before beginning to wind. This is 
more tedious than employing silk, direct from 
the spool, but you have the advantage of pre- 
paring the material for several windings at 
one time, and a little experimenting will deter- 
mine how much to cut for certain work. A 
strand fifteen inches in length will make four 
or five narrow windings for a fly-rod tip, but 
for the joint and butt much longer strands will 
be necessary. 

Because of the flat, ribbon-like form of the 
separated strands, fewer turns to each wind- 
ing will be the rule than if 00 were used; 
but the silk is so thin when tightly wound that 
no objections can be raised to its bulk. Given 
a coat of shellac on the silk only, and the en- 
tire rod then coated with the best light coach 
varnish, put on while warm, the rod will be 
a work of art, and a finger rubbed over its 
length will barely feel the windings. 

Finally, the thinner the silk employed in 
windings, the less will they be cut and frayed 
by the fly line. A great many of the hard 
enameled fly lines break, or, rather, the enamel 
breaks in places if much used, so that the line 
is not smooth and wiry as when new, and such 
lines wear the windings rapidly, particularly 



WINDING RODS 215 

those in which large sizes of silk are used. I 
have seen new tournament fly-rods with every 
winding on the tips cut entirely through after 
a few days' use, necessitating considerable ex- 
pense in renewing windings and varnish; but 
this is often due to insufficient varnish in the 
first place, or to coating the rod with shellac 
instead of good varnish. It is much less 
trouble and cheaper to shellac windings, rod 
and all at one time than to shellac the wind- 
ings, then varnish over all, two coats; but it 
is not so satisfactory to the owner of the rod. 



CHAPTER XVII 

VARNISHING RODS 

WHEN your rod has been wound, it is 
well to take up each joint, and while 
turning it rapidly, pass it over an 
alcohol or gas flame to remove all fuzzy ends 
of silk. Be careful that the flame is not close 
enough to scorch the windings, however. If 
any ends of silk protrude, cut them off short 
with a sharp knife. 

Now warm your grain alcohol shellac 
slightly, so that it will flow well, and with the 
thin, round artist's brush previously referred 
to, coat each silk winding evenly, being care- 
ful to keep the shellac off the wood. As a rule 
one coat on the windings will be sufficient, but 
if the silk seems to be dry and dull after the 
first coat has dried, go over it lightly a second 
time, and let the rod dry for several hours. 
Because the shellac seems to be dry and hard 
on the surface of the windings after an hour, 
do not take it for granted and go ahead with 
varnishing. Shellac dries on the surface first, 
216 



VARNISHING RODS 217 

and if two coats of it are put on windings, it 
is well to let them dry for a couple of days 
before attempting to varnish. 

When you take it up again, go over the 
wood with a piece of flannel or linen, rubbing 
lightly but thoroughly to remove any wax, 
grease or oil that may have accumulated there 
during the winding. This is absolutely neces- 
sary to the attainment of a nice finish, and 
after the shellac on the windings is hard no 
harm can be done by polishing the wood with 
a strip of soft cotton or silk, bootblack fash- 
ion. To do this hold one end of the joint 
against something firm, to prevent turning. 
While it is not necessary, the shellac can be 
warmed slightly over a flame at this stage and 
the joint turned while a finger is passed around 
each winding to smooth down any uneven sur- 
faces. After this do not touch the wood or 
windings with your hands; pick it up by the 
ferrules instead. 

When you are ready to varnish, select a 
warm day if possible, or at any rate one when 
the air is not humid or moist. The rod should 
be warmed in a room where the temperature 
is 75 degrees, and your can of extra light 
coach varnish should be left for ten minutes 
in a pot of steaming hot water, to be sure that 



218 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

it will be thin and all particles of gum con- 
tained in it will be melted so that it will flow 
nicely and dry rapidly. A warm rod and hot 
varnish will insure a nice finish. 

For your work it is assumed that you have 
procured a flat brush of good quality, and that 
you are ready to begin by holding one end of 
a joint on a table and the other in your left 
hand. With a modest quantity of varnish, 
pass the brush from the top down for four 
inches, turning the joint slowly while the 
brush is held at an angle of about 20 degrees 
to the rod. Work very slowly, and in going 
over each winding see that a bare spot is not 
left there, caused by the brush skipping over 
the silk and missing the wood just beyond. 
To prevent this it is sometimes advisable to 
pass the brush around the rod at each wind- 
ing first, then, when the varnish in it is nearly 
exhausted, go over that part lengthwise, to 
insure an even coating. At any rate, great 
care must be exercised to prevent daubing the 
varnish on in places and skipping others. 

The first coat should be worked in, with no 
attempt to flow the varnish on, and be careful 
lest varnish accumulates around the guides, 
and leaves them gummed up and unsightly. 
The same care is necessary with reference to 



VARNISHING RODS 219 

the ferrules. To avoid marring them, pass 
the brush around the contiguous winding very 
slowly, coating the silk but not encroaching on 
the metal. 

When all the part of the rod are var- 
nished, if they can be assembled and the rod 
suspended in a fairly warm, dry room, free 
from dust, for two or three days, all should 
be well. A brad driven in a picture mould- 
ing is ideal, provided the rod does not hang 
close to the wall, but the center of a room 
is a better place, as some walls are cold, even 
damp, and on the side of a rod hanging close 
to such a wall the varnish may crawl andf 
spoil your work. 

In spring or summer it is usually safe to 
varnish a rod in the morning and suspend it 
in a window. The morning sun is not too 
warm, but it is often too warm after 10 
o'clock for the best results. Plenty of fresh 
air is best, but a windy place should be avoid- 
ed, as dust is likely to be flying there. Do 
not leave separate joints, while they are dry- 
ing, where careless persons may accidentally 
knock them over or break them, and see that 
they are kept indoors at night. Do not touch 
the varnish with the hands. 

Perhaps you will be satisfied with one coat 



220 AMATEUR RODMAKING 

of varnish. If it is evenly applied it will be 
sufficient for split bamboo rods; but coach 
varnish applied while warm is not very thick, 
and a light second coat will keep out moisture. 
The first coat should set in four hours and be 
hard enough for a second coat in less than a 
week. The second coat, however, should be 
given as much time as possible to dry and 
harden before the rod is used, depending on 
the temperature. This coat can be deferred 
with safety until the middle of the season or 
even until the following winter if the rod is 
not subjected to hard usage; and if it is still 
in good condition, the new varnish will make 
it like a new rod. For hard use, however, two 
coats of varnish will not be wasted, but three 
will not be needed. 

If spar varnish is to be used — and many 
salt water anglers employ it — three coats, 
with several days between, will be necessary. 

Cord-wound handgrasps should be given 
two coats of shellac and one of coach var- 
nish. More will be likely to render the cord 
slippery. If the grasp is sumac, omit the 
shellac and put on two coats of coach, giving 
it ample time to dry. 

THE END 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 

rii\riiJDKJ\Jr±D door work <md P h y 

<£ Each book deals with a separate subject and deals with it thor- 
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1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods 

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the greatest problem in exercise for most of us is to get enough of 
the right kind. The greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, 
and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up. He writes 
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4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt. The 

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5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The 

book opens with a short chapter on the origin and development of 
the Airedale, as a distinctive breed. The author then takes up the 
problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, 
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7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by 

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8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. 

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12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. 

After twenty years of patient study and practical experience, Mr. 
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13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. Contains a full discussion of the various Method*. 
such as snapshooting, swing and half-swing, diaCOMei the ilight of 
birds with reference to the gunner's problem of lead and range and 
makes special application of the various points to the different birds 
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14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF' POULTRY, by 

Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler discusses from personal ex- 
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15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles 

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16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. 

This book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments. Prac- 
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17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK,by Herbert 

L. Stone. The author and compiler of this work is the editor of 
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ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the lead 
fine, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all given careful 
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troubles. 

18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Wil- 
liams Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale," 
and deals with the history and development of both breeds. For 
the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as to the use of 
the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, 
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19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. 

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20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. 

Dimock. A solution of all the problems in camera work out-of- 
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21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon 

W allace. Mr. Wallace has brought together in one volume all 
the valuable information on the different ways of making and carry- 
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throwing the diamond hitch. 

22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 

This is a companion book to "The Airedale" and "Scottish and Irish 
Terriers" by the same author. Its greatest usefulness is as a guide 
to the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full 
account of the development of the breed is given with a description 
of best types and standards. Recommendations for the care of 
the dog in health or sickness are included. The chapter heads 
cover such matters as: — The Bull Terrier's History — Training the 
Bull Terrier— The Terrier in Health-~fc.enneling— Diieases. 




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23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. 
As in his other books on the terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin 
and history of the breed, its types and standards, and the more ex- 
clusive representatives down to the present time. Training the Fox 
Terrier — His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health — and the 
Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put — are among the phases 
handled. 

24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. 

Illustrated with diagrams. The author regards the house and 
grounds as a complete unit and shows how the best results may be 
obtained by carrying the reader in detail through the various phases 
of designing the garden, with the levels and contours necessary, 
laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing the arbors, 
summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees, shrubs, 
vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are appended, 
as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been made 
through "starting wrong." 




25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by 

Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that is comparatively new in 
this country although English anglers have used the dry fly for 
generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study and is 
one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter 
from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish. His book 
takes up the process in that order, namely — How to Outfit for Dry 
Fly Fishing — How, Where, and When to Cast — The Selection and 
Use of Floating Flies — Dry Fly Fishing for Brook, Brown and 
Rainbow Trout — Hooking, Playing and Landing — Practical Hints on 
Dry Fly Fishing. 

26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Wbiting 

SlauSOn. Deals with the practical problems of motor operation. 
The standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and 
why gasoline generates power and something about the various 
types. Describes in detail the different parts of motors and the 
faults to which they are liable, Also gives full directions as to re- 
pair and upkeep. Various chapters deal with Types of Motors — 
Valves — Bearings — Ignition — Carburetors — Lubrication— Fuel — 
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27. ICE BOATING, by H. L Stone. Illustrated with 

diagrams. Here have been brought lOgether all the available in- 
formation on the organization and history of ice-boating, the build- 
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the 600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifications. 
Full information is also given to meet the needs of those who wish 
to be able to build and sail their own boats but are handicapped by 
the lack of proper knowledge as to just the points described in this 
volume. 

28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold II. Hilton. Mr. 

Hilton is the only man who has ever held the amateur champion- 
ship of Great Britain and the United States in the same year. In 
addition to this, he has, for years, been recognized as one of the 
most intelligent, steady players of the game in England. This book 
is a product of his advanced thought and experience and gives the 
reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swinging of the clubs 
as in the actual playing of the game, with all the factors that enter 
into it. He discusses the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, 
the art of approaching, tournament play as a distinct thing in itself, 
and kindred subjects. 

29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. 

A discussion of the meaning, method and value of intensive methods 
in agriculture. This book is designed for the convenienee of prac- 
tical farmers who find themselves under the necessity of makmg a 
living out of high-priced land. 

30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by Williams 
Hayne9. This is a companion volume to FRACTICAL DOG 
KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into the . 
mental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on both 
Bides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination < f i 

able, qualities, the value of prepotency in building npad 
breed, etc. The arguments are illustrated with instances of 
has been accomplished, both good and bad, in the case of well- 
known breed-. 

31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by \. 
Haynes. Mr.IIaynesi* well known to the reader* of the < H TING 
HWDBOOKS as the author of books on the terriers, l 1 
book is somewhat more ambitions in that it carries 1 im inl 
general field jring and Bellina of 

the care of dogs in kenni Is* handling Lb b 

and at Me length into inch sub; eding, 

exen . •■ an I 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 




32. PRACTICAL TREE PLANTING, by C. R. 

Pettis. The author, who is the New York State Forester, takes up 
the general subject of reforesting, covering nature's method and the 
practical methods of broadcast seed-sowing, seed spot planting, 
nursery practice, etc. The various species are described and their 
adaptability to varying conditions indicated. Results of reforesting 
are shown and instructions are given for the planting of wind- 
breaks and shade trees. 

33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry D. Frazer. 

Illustrated. A practical manual for all those who want to make 
their own rod and fittings. It contains a review of fishing rod his- 
tory, a discussion of materials, a list of the tools needed, description 
of the method to be followed in making all kinds of rods, including 
fly-casting, bait-fishing, salmon, etc., with full instructions for wind- 
ing, varnishing, etc, 

34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. 

A. Himmelwright. A new and revised edition of a work that has 
already achieved prominence as an accepted authority on the use of 
the hand gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both revolver 
and target pistol, including shooting position, grip, position of arm, etc. 
The book is thoroughly illustrated with diagrams and photographs 
and includes the rules of the United States Revolver Association 
and a list of the records made both here and abroad. 

35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This 

is a book for both fancier and market breeder. Full descriptions 
are given of the construction of houses, the care of the birds, pre- 
paration for market, and shipment. Descriptions of the various 
breeds with their markings and characteristics are given. Illustrated 
with photographs and diagrams. 

36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D. Frazer. Il- 
lustrated. The subtitle is descriptive. "Hints for Beginners in 
the Selection, Care, and Use of Rods, Reels, Lines, etc." It tells all 
the fisherman needs to know about making and overhauling his 
tackle during the closed season and gives full' instructions for tour- 
nament casting and fly-casting. Chapters are included on cases and 
holders for the care of tackle when not in use. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 

37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A. L. 

Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the plain truth about the little 
things that every motorist want9 to know about his own car. Do 
you want to cure ignition troubles? Overhaul and adjust your 
carbureter? Keep your transmission in order? Get the maximum 
wear out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and one 
things that are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your 
car? Then you will find this book useful. 

38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Williams. 
Author of "Horse and Hound". Illustrated. The author is 
the foremost authority on fox hunting and foxhounds in America. 
For years he has kept the foxhound studbook, and is the final source 
of information on all disputed points relating to this breed. His 
book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling, diseases and 
all the other practical points relating to the use and care of the 
hound. An appendix is added containing the rules and regulations 
of hound field trials. 

39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charles 

F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole field of his subject 
devoting a chapter each to such fish as the tuna, the tarpon, amber- 
jack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king fish, the barracuda, the 
sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pacific 
Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits and habitats of the 
fish are described, together with the methods and tackle for taking 
them. The book concludes with an account of the development 
and rules of the American Sea Angling Clubs. Illustrated. 

40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. 

A book that meets the increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold 
weather. Mr. Carpenter discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, 
clothing, food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life in 
winter woods, care of frost bite, etc. It is based on much actual ex- 
perience in winter camping and is fully illustrated with working 
photographs. 

41. LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. DeB. Handley. 

Illustrated. Mr. Handley takes up the problem from the standpoint 
of the person of any sex or age who cannot swim a stroke. Step by 
step he unfolds the various stages, floating, the 6idc Stroke, tin* 
crawl, the trudgeon, the breast stroke, swimming on the bs* 

iding v ith a chapter on speed swimming and training for rae- 
I T ig. It covers the whole field of natation in ■ clear, simple n 
with photographs showing each Btl 

BOAT AND CANOE BUILDING, by Victor 

Slocum. All of us like to think we could bnild a boat if v 
t-j. Mr. Slocum tells OS how to do it. .iven for the 

various types of canoes as well as full descriptions for preparing the 
material and putting it together. Small dories and lapatreak boats 
are also indua*" 1 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 

43. PRACTICAL PROSPECTING, by Charles 

Johnson Post. Illustrated. Did you ever wonder what ore- 
bearing rock looked like? Did you ever want to know how to test 
it for the various minerals? Would you be interested in learning 
how to put together a rough and ready outfit that would do all the 
work of the more expensive kits ? This book covers all these points 
and more. It is a valuable companion for a walking trip through 
the hills. It tells you not only where minerals are found and how, 
but also where you need not expect to find them. 

44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practical in- 

etruction for men who wish to learn the first steps in the manly 
art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long personal experience as an 
amateur boxer and as a trainer of other amateurs. His instructions 
are accompanied with fall diagrams showing the approved blows 
and guards. He also gives full directions for training for condition 
without danger of going stale from overtraining. It is essentially a 
book for the amateur who boxes for sport and exercise. 

45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. 

Out of his store of experience as a successful tennis player, Mr. 
Little has written this practical guide for those who wish to know 
how real tennis is played. He tells the reader when and how to 
take the net, discusses the relative merits of the back-court and 
volleying game and how their proper balance may be achieved; 
analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the fundamental 
necessities of successful doubles play. 

46. THE AUXILIARY YACHT, by H. L. Stone. 

Combines information on the installation of power in a boat that 
was not designed especially for it. with the features desirable in de- 
signing a boat for this double use. Deals with the peculiar proper- 
ties of the auxiliary, its advantages and disadvantages, the handling 
of the boat under sail and power, etc. Does not go into detail on 
engine construction but gives the approximate power needed for 
different boats and the calculations necessary to find this figure. 

47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Illustrated with 

diagrams. Being a practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into 
the question of selection of tools and materials for the various stages 
of skinning, stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose handling 
is described are, for the most part, the every-day one3, such as 
ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., although adequate instructions 
are included for mounting big game specimens, as well as the pre- 
liminary care of skins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany 
the text. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMi ANY— NEW YORK 

48. THE CANOE— ITS SELECTION, CARE AND 
USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton. Illustrated with photographs. 
With proper use the canoe is one of the safests crafts that floats. 
Mr. Pinkerton tells how that 6tate of safety may be obtained. Ue 
gives full instructions for the selection of the right canoe for each 

Particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he tells how it should 
e used in order to secure the maximum of safety, comfort and use- 
fulness. His own lesson was learned among the Indians of Canada, 
where paddling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as 
much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins. 

49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J. Post. 

Illustrated with diagrams. This is a complete description of the 
hitches, knots, and apparatus used in making and carrying loads of 
various kinds on horseback. Its basis is the methods followed in the 
West and in the American Army. The diagrams are full and detailed, 
giving the various hitches and knots at each of the important stages 
so that even the novice can follow and use them. It is the only 
book ever published on this subject of which this could be said. 
Full description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as a cata- 
logue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are subject. 

50. RAINY DAY IN CAMP, by C. H. Gaudy. 

Illustrated. "What do you do when you are stormbound in the camp 
and time hangs heavy on your hands? This book gives a long list 
of games that you can play and the rules that govern them. It also 
describes various improvised indoor occupations appropriate to 
camp life. If you have it in your duffle bag you need not fear the 
approach of threatening clouds. 

51. WALKING OUTFITS, by C. P. Fordyce. 

Illustrated. Every year the adherents of "hiking" in this country 
grow in numbers and enthusiasm. It is an old art and a valuable 
one. But something more than a pair of logs is necessary to make 
the walking trip a success. You must wear the right shoes and the 
right clothes. You must carry with you the right kind of sleeping 
and cooking outfit. Mr. Fordyce gives the concentrated experience 
of many years on highway and trail. 

52. LEARNING TO SKATE, by J. F. Verne. 

Illustrated. Half the fun of skating is in knowing how to do if 
with the leaf! effort. Nothing is so easy when you know how — or 
so hard when you don't. This hook describes the process in detail 
from the first day on the ice to the high<->t development of 
■peed nn.l fancy skating. The author is familiar with the late t 
developments in I Surope where figure skating has been carried to 
a much higher point than in America. 



